Aurelin Hawk

Wow....after that, I wonder if there's anything LEFT of the fighter to MODIFY? Don't like the name, design, paint job.... Tell you what: I'll burn the model, scrap the design, and start over. VF-? BRICK. That has a nice ring to it. At first you like it and say that the paint needs to be dull, THEN you load all of this? Starting to wonder who i offended in a previous life...

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Keanu as Spkie Speigel? AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!

Robocrap is what got me into Macross; I learned later (much to my delight) that Macross was a far more interesting world, and not as depressing as robocrap. Plus, i like the DRYL version of the SDF-1 far better! JMO. PLUS, Macross Plus, Macross 7 and Frontier continue the story on FAR better. I LOVE the soundtrack to Macross Plus! Robocrap: well.... bastard children will be bastard children. I do like the opening theme song, but that's about it now.

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you have a point. Robotech is garbage, and I like the storyline from macross better. I think what's really at issue here is how hard it is for us in the states and other places to get honest-to -goodness macross stuff. i still think yamato could improve it's QC though.

That would be wonderful! I need a heat shield, cockpit landing gear doors, and alerons for my mech, which is a vf-1s Roy . Now, to convince Yamato I live in Japan..... domo arigato mr roboto...

I know all about them breaking: I'm curently trying to repair my vf-1s 1/48!!! I'm not impressed with yamato's quality, and with the price they are charging, I think their product should be better than that. So I'm going to have to go with greed. JMHO.

Thanks. I really appreciate the compliments ans support everyone. I was a little nervous putting this one up on here.

I'm refining it as I go. So far, there is only the prototype, and I don't have the resources to cast it in resin. As far as the matte coat, I'm trying to find a good one. The last one i used clouded the hull and i had to repaint.

They should have done it as a period piece, set in the 1950's. Perhaps as sort of a "documentary" of "real events" that happened at that time, only coming to light now. That would open the door to a sequel in which man hasn't lived up to it's responsibilities, and a new emmisary had to be sent.

The plastic on a DX is heavier, and can stand more modifications.

It's supposed to be stealth, so that's why i used darker colors. But the base frame was a Gundam zeta plus model. Most of the outer armor is very heavilly kitbashed,; only the joints are still noticeable.

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Try rubbing alcohol, 70 percent grade. Any stronger and it will remove paint. I used it along with a q-tip to remove panel lines previously, and it seems to do a good job with graphite.

This DX screams one thing to me: KITBASH!!! :lol

I voted for battroid; it can do hand to hand. Although Mr. March came up with a good point: The tranformation itself is the best feature! Keep your enemy guessing by constanly changing the rules of the fight!

New Britain, CT. USA

Definitely. I think we may see a pattern of assigned fighter types to specific branches of the Unity forces.

I have a question (And i've been a fan for a number of years now), Does anyone know what type of metal the Alien Star Ship One was made of? And what metal did they utilize to rebuild it into the macross during it's decade-long refurbishment?

Hi everyone! For my first post here at MW Forums, ley me tell you about something I've found to be pretty useful. it's called plastic welder, manufactured by devcon. It's an epoxy-like adhesive that isn't as brittle as normal epoxy, and is a lot stronger. I use it to make my own parts for my custom projects, and the stuff can't be beat when you need to fix a part that requires both strength and durability. (it's as strong and resilient as the original plastic, if not more so) It cures in 15 minutes, and reaches full strength overnight, not to mention it can be machined with a rotary tool, and accepts paint quite easily. You can find it for about $2.50 at Wal-mart or your local hardware store. I hope to post some of my stuff here soon. Until then, konichiwa!!