do not disturb

i've always wanted to make a terminator valk. i just need me waist mounted chaingun and a leather jacket....and maybe some tiny shades.

all the mr. negativo's need to chill, have faith my brothers, they will make everything.......eventually.

i don't have any CMS figures but i tell you this, it sure looks a little crowded in there. i have a bunch of gashapons figures and other small stuff that i keep in a little acrylic display case by themselves. for the most part, i try to keep everything thats along the same scale with one another. mixing scales always ends up being a headache to display cause you always have more VF toys/figures for character than another. i.e. if i made a hikaru display, i'd have more hikaru related stuff than say millia. more max stuff than roy stuff, etc, etc, etc.

i contacted the vendor the other day and hes taking care of me, no questions/money asked. its good know there are actually people out there trying to do the right thing.

cool guys, thanks for the info. i know there are subtle differences with the ride armors but i figured the forearm attachments and a nice paint job would still be pretty cool.

the TV FP's is a simple fix, just cut/sand off the little piece thats in the way(don't know how to describe it but its self-explanatory) and it holds nice and tight. BTW, i was did a review on the DYRL FP's not the TV FP's.

i was wondering if anyone had ever casted the other arm attachments for the large gakken cyclone?

you know... if someone took a 1/48 1S and gave it the jetfire paint scheme, i could see it selling for a pretty penny. all you gotta do is put "MPC jetfire" in the title and the TF heads will bite.

really? I thought it would be selling well? This sucks. I was hoping that this owuld sell well to motivate them to make more unpredicable things, like a 1/60 Tomahawk or a VF-9 Cutlass! eh, its just rumors. its not like i'm standing in front of toy stores in japan checking out what everyone buys. if there is actually a lack of sales, i think a lot of it has to do with the packaging. as i mentioned before, yamato should've smarter and boxed it up in gerwalk mode and not the fugly shuttle mode.

eh, don't worry, it should be fine in there. that piece was originally designed to be attached to the hinge, so don't worry too much. the legs/wing design flaw is totally a mathematical error......japanese....bad at math? thats inconceivable! maybe they'll be a resissue but according to some, the konig isn't selling that well so who really knows what going to happen? i just hope they re-issue another before i break down and buy another.

yo hicks! i know you're new here and i know you're new to collecting but you got like 6 threads going asking questions. in the future, please try and post all your questions/requests in one thread to make it easier for everyone. just a suggestion.

alrighty then! thanks for the suggestions but i think it'll be less work/time/money for me, if i just try and buy a new piece. strange tid bit but i don't know if its true? one of my buddies that makes custom lego pieces said that alka-seltzer would remove the excess settling solution(or what that crap is called) from the casted piece. anyone know if this is true?

have you tried taking the arm apart and then connecting the piece? thats really the only way i can think of to get the pegs into the holes in the hinge piece properly. yeah its annoying but taking the arm apart isn't that difficult. remove the 1 screw in the "bicep", pull the arm off, remove the 6 black screws and thats about it. and don't worry, there aren't any pieces floating around in there. and i agree, why tease us with a gimmick to begin with? if they had just glued it down completely, none of us would've even known it was there....afterall, ignorance is bliss.

thanks for your help guys. i guess i'm shiet out of luck then. li'm gonna have to get another one i guess.

here ya go.

i painted this resin head the other day and after a day or so it was still sticky. i thought perhaps that i might have applied too many coats, so i took the paint off, washed it down, let it dry and painted it again. well, i just picked it up now and it was all sticky again. it was dry at one point but now when i touch the paint sticky, it doesn't come off on my finger, its just kind of gooey. anyone know what this is all about? i've painted other resin pieces with the same paint(citadel water based) and never had this happen. WTF? any help would be appreicated.

sure why not? i have 6 of them. 1S reg roy 1S reg roy converted into 1A kaz 1S strike roy 1S strike max, custom 1S strike hikaru, custom 1S strike kakizaki, custom if you look hard enough, you should be able to find strikes for about $60 or so. the M&M's are cool but i only bought one of each cause IMO they're pretty useless as far as customizing goes.

the problem with head lasers is they tend to be fragile....that and i'd imagine its actually a pain in the butt to cast. a VF head doesn't necessarily have to have head lasers at all. but i still like you're idea.

that's one letter away from being gay.... and he calls himself a grown up.

the big problem i have with most display cases is they're never deep enough. until i see an enclosed case thats more than 14" deep(the average), i ain't buying one. the detolf is nice(and cheap) but theres such a small amount of useable shelf space. its like 16" x 16" which isn't displaying much as far as i'm concerned. look at jenius's pic of the 1/3000 SDF-1 and 1/55 super O in one of those detolf cases, at most you'd get another 2 items in there. i want something BIG, but more importantly DEEP but this combo is next to impossible to find.

yadda, yadda, yadda, you're talking madness my friend! no need to get nuts, just go with the 3/8" glass and you'll be fine. just make sure you ask them to polish the sides/edges of the glass as well as rounding the corners, otherwise, they give it to you raw....ouch! if they ask you about how round you want the corners(and belive me you want them rounded off), just tell them you want a "quarter" corner. this means the rounded corners will be round like a quarter(.25 cents) if you want something less round, tell him you want "nickel" corners, penny, dime, so on a so forth.

as i understand the vehicle designs, in the NT the republic had a lot of resources and could build sleek looking ships like the naboo fighter. they had production capabilities as well as the money to fund it. in the OT, the republic is dead and their resources with it. so what do they do? they make ships out of whatever is left and can get their hands on and come up with more rugged looking designed ships like the y-wing. they are after all rebels and last time i checked, rebels never have anything thats too fresh. its always some rundown POS they get working by kicking and swearing at it a lot. also as a rebel faction, they don't have time to build sleek looking ships to fight the empire and why would they? they have more important things to spend time/money on like fighting off the imperials. as far as influences, it could be retro moving towards modern but like with everything else in life, it revolves, so it doesn't have much meaning. i.e. remember when you were a kid, your mom wore bell bottom jeans? and how you told her not to wear them outside? guess what? they made a come back 20 years later didn't they, they even made bell-bottom slacks for chicks...and they still do. i.e. fluorescent colors, we see it as some 80's eye sore(what were we thinking?) but the kids growing up now like it. i sell skateboards in my free time and all the kids in my hood are asking me for fluorescent colored decks.

so where the rest of it? j/k

same a saran wrap, its just a lot bigger.

well being an semi expert when it comes to curio cabinets, most of them use 1/4" glass...the same thinkness of a standard window pane which isn't that strong IMHO. it can hold some weight but but if you're displaying a lot of stuff or heavy stuff 3/8" is the way to go. it will support a lot of weight and you'll never have to fear of it breaking it or the support pegs. 1/2" glass is not even worth it. its so damn heavy you'll have to worry about the support pegs breaking before the glass itself so i wouldn't go there. 3/8" all the way my friend. also i'd ask around for prices on glass before paying that much for it. glass guys make up there own prices(like with any other trade) so asking around will save you $$$.