geecie30

I just used the Pigma Micron with the smallest tip(005)(.45mm linewidth), it was easy to clean up any slip in panel lines by using alcohol and a swab .If you want thin lines,a "once-over", is enough but, on some of the wider lines, simply go over it again for a bolder touch,unless you like subtle .The ink lines are waterproof but, will easily come off later with rubbing acohol,where needed in undoing a line(let say you wanted to sell it without the lines/reversible).It was hot one day, when doing this for myself, so ,I was thinking "my worst enemy would be my hands getting clammy or sweating due to the heat ,possibly smudging a little bit". That cant happen, however.These pens are forgiving and user friendly.If you decided to give this a try,The panel lines are deep enough that you wont have to worry about smudging too much.Again, check it out periodically while applying the pen and get out the cotton swab with alcohol should you jump off the panel line notches ,as some lines aren't as deep as others,in places.I drink coffee alot ,so I was jittery while doing this project,I made a couple errors that the alcohol dipped swabs easily corrected. I know that everyone can do it unless you got (ALS) Lou Gehrig's Disease or parkinsons disorder. Iam all thumbs ,and my detail job looks perfect.The lines take 5 minutes to dry probably.

I hate to bring this stodgie subject back,.................I found two 1/6 arii #12. These are the Lisa Hayes(MISA HAYASE) figure made of vinyl or a.k.a (PVC) "same thing" I just learned. they are hard to find Nowadays but some people here have them. As far as CMS I have read that they are affiliated or a subsidiary of Yamato.is to Yamato as Banpresto is to Bandai, Making gift toy capsul toys (gashpons) line-up and smaller toys like, K&M (Kaiyodo and Movic) who make tiny toys mostly it appears.Probably the bread and butter of these comapnies when the big stuff wont sell like this beautiful 1/60 what ever it is... Q-rau Maximus Link to toy

yeah I've seen some like minmay doll that never sold for 999 dollars and when people put a question mark after "Do you remember love" ,not because it is a question,..naturally, but because they aren't sure what they are selling in an auction so they throw out words like "do you remember love jetfire toy?" Macross Robotech Mospeada 1/552 VF1S Valkyrie

yes,I do want to paint somethings periodically, and I notice the toy companies have found the secret formulas but I'm pretty sure that its a trade secret unless you've unraveled the mystery,because I've never seen a painted figure with better paint than the originals,for example the yellow strip on the chest plate of the vf-1s 1/48 or a 1/55 bandai or lets say the dana sterling matchbox figure with armor the paint is awsome and non scratching for the most part.When the truth comes out about this closely guarded factory secret,and the shrouded hidden mystery gets out, then I'm sure our customs and repaints will be top notch and we perhaps can fetch better returns on our toy sales and make better models and customs.The facts are out there ,it would be nice if I knew too,and hopefully it gets answered.I have noticed that customs that I've seen usually have the tale tale evidence of a repaint when displayed in pictures submitted here on MW.Not even trick of light seems to hide these paint jobs.This is not a complaint but an observation.I hope that we can get a hold of that superior wonder paint and learn what magic paints work well on each of their corrosponding plastic types because I'm guessing that the some paints are applied to the wrong plastics and mediums.this is why we have to settle.

"doesn't it look like someone is strangling her from behind with piano wire?" maybe it is Lisa after her piano recital and a chromatic tuning ,whom tried to off Minmay

Well,it was an impulse buy, I thought maybe a collector may want this in MW. I like Bandai valks beccause of nostalgia,not because they are accurate,true to,and demonstrative of the animated version of the valk.Bandai's are sturdy thats why I always loved them. Iam so happy that there are other people who like macross stuff.Apart from voltron,my first toy was a jetfire in 7th or 8th grade.My brother got it for me, and he passed away, so this stuff has genuine sentimental to me. I'm sure that every one has there reasons for being a fan and some people collect different things.Thanks for viewing this post. I just thought maybe this was maybe a good deal ,It scarce that I ever get good deals but, sometimes the deal-evaders fall through the cracks. it was impulse and i thought.....maybe I can retain it for a collector of such an item in this MW.I Know it isn't as sweet as my arii or my little poly fig minmay but its maybe a collectors thing.Its kind of to me, like the bandai valks they are clunky and inaccurate but, I love them because of their sturdiness and the magic it brings or more precise"The nostalgia". My first toy apart from Voltron, was a jetfire that my brother got me.I'm proud people still collect these things,I dont feel alone or obscure. ^THIS WAS THE ORIGINAL BUT ACCIDENTALLY PM'ED POST SORRY ABOUT THAT

14 dollars on ebay good deal or not?

Does anyone know what kind of paint is used for toys,for average plastic toys,..... km toys?yamato valks?matchbox hovertanks? voltron? gi-joe? I just wanted to ask you that,Thanks

me too i want milia with the dress and helmets and stuff and THAT minmay please!!!!!!!

Since colouring agents like PbCO3 and CdCO3 are used in >combination (PbCO3 has been used in miniblinds, and CdCO3 has been used >in teething rings, plastic pigments, etc), I suspect that analogous >reactions (i.e. formation of PbS and CdS) are to blame. The yellowing of the plastic is more likely the result of insufficient anti-oxidant present in the plastic. If it is important enough then storage in the dark under an inert gas is the best solution. oxidants break down the composition of plastic,IE, uv,heat,some bad chemicals in the air ,time,etc. Many convertible tops use polyvinyl windows. Exposure to UV rays can cause the plasticizers that make this plastic pliable to be released, which causes haze. Many plastic polishes are formulated to remove this haze and yellowing as well as mild scratches I took numerous plastics technology training courses when I worked as an engineer, and one thing that struck me was the incredible number of special additives and modifiers used today to control problems such as yellowing. I have not seen a recent (i.e. 20 year-old or less) tub surround turn yellow. Yellowing/Discoloration Yellowing occurs with a combination of extended nighttime driving, acid rain, and possibly condensation. It mostly occurs on the inside of the lens but can also be found on the outside. The hard plastic used for the lens is susceptible to high heat, and yellowing is a side effect of that. Since they introduced the plastic lens in 1984 on the Lincoln Mark VII, Ford has used polycarbonate--a high heat resistant, high impact strength plastic that also has low resistance to UV light and moisture. Since headlamp lens light sources generate a lot of heat and require impact resistance, polycarbonate has been the material of choice for all but a couple of GM programs (like the Berreta/Corsica program, which was an overlay lens--polycarbonate inner/acrylic outer). I remember my uncle telling me that the new batteries since 1988 and later were made from poly urathane and dont yellow or decompose from uv and heat 2. What *CAN'T* I fix or restore on my figures? A. Yellowing Several factors can cause certain figures to become discolored and parts that were once bright white to turn yellow. This is a reaction in the plastic itself and cannot be cleaned. Some factors known to cause the discoloration include exposure to direct sunlight for an extended period of time, humidity, contact with chemicals (such as glue or tape), and bright artificial light. Certain figures are prone to yellowing more easily than other figures. The most important on this list are white action figures, like Snow Job (1983) and Storm Shadow (v1, 1984). Something in the white plastic used on him make them very susceptible to sunlight damage. Another figure who tends to become sun-damaged easily is Spirit (v1, 1984), whose blue shirt will fade into a pale blue - almost white. The choice of the plastic makeslittle difference to initial appearance.But this is only true while the prod-uct is new. Depending on exposureto light and heat, significant differ-ences begin to be seen after about1 or 2 years. Inappropriate plasticsshow marked signs of aging suchas yellowing, graying and embrittle-ment. Luran S is now used in very manysectors where long-service-lifeproducts are made from plastics:in electrical appliances, forwashing machines, dryers, freez-ers, and many other products in the garden, for furniture andequipment such as lawnmowersin external parts on buildings,such as antennas, movementdetectors, and other securitydevicesin the leisure sector for outdoorsport requisitesin the household, for electricaldevices such as microwaveovens, vacuum cleaners, oralirrigators, etc.Luran S, the ASA from BASFwith excellentlong-term propertiesWhite stays brilliant, colorsstay bright, and surfaces show none of the agingeffects which can be causedby weathering -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mylar is crystal-clear, very strong, and performs far better than other types of plastic as a barrier against dust, pollution, water vapor and oily fingers. The Library of Congress will use only polyester products (such as Mylar) that "must not contain any plasticizer, surface coatings, UV inhibitors, or absorbents, and be guaranteed to be non-yellowing with natural aging. "vinyl" (V) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) good transparency (clarity) chemical and weather resistant scratch-proof "all PVC polymers are degraded by light and heat, hydrogen chloride is eliminated and oxidation occurs" retains water (8%) "chemicals used to make this type of plastic can react with water vapor to form hydrochloric acid and quickly damage a paper collection." uses: "leatherette" fabric, gloves, flying discs, carpet & flooring, pipes, exterior siding, 3-ring binders, bubble wrap. not recommended for use with silver used for short-term business document storage not suitable for archival storage purposes >Many of our artifacts are curated in a climate-controlled room in >very tight cabinets. Within the cab's many of the individual >artifacts are enclosed in zip-top 4 mil thick polyethylene bags. >Over the years we have noticed that some of the bags and the paper >tags inside them have turned a yellow/green, especially, but not >limited to, where the artifacts are touching them. This process can >take as little as 4 months. I remember when the issue of yellowing of polyethylene bags (and perhaps also the cloth items stored in them) first came up. It was soon after permanent press textiles were introduced to the market. I have forgotten who finally solved the mystery, but it turned out to be a reaction between the treated clothing items and the bags they were shipped or stored in. This was a big surprise to the chemists who had introduced the treatment to the market. As I recall, the solution was not to bag the items. Unfortunately the plastic can't usually be whitened again. The UV rays perminently alter the pigment. Many times just the air alone will do it even if the toy is out of the sun. Many a Star Wars Storm Trooper has turned yellow over the years.

I was painting a figure that was pvc and the enamel paint hasn't dried in 2 days .Do I wait longer or strip it off and paint with some other paint? I'm not sure how to strip the paint the figure stays tacky it appears dry but there is a small level of tackiness. some of the features were messed up so I know at least one part will be needing paint removal .does any one have an idea what to do? Thanks

I was painting a figure that was pvc and the enamel paint hasn't dried in 2 days .Do I wait longer or strip it off and paint with some other paint? I'm not sure how to strip the paint the figure stays tacky it appears dry but there is a small level of tackiness. some of the features were messed up so I know at least one part will be needing paint removal .does any one have an idea what to do? Thanks

1 blue max tv 60 1 red miryia tv 60 1dyrlarmor vf-1s 60 1roy 48

could someone get minmay in the above picture and sell her the one in the pic?and the new miryia?with the dress and helmet and stuff?

Miryia

miryia

miryia

miriya

miriya

Miriya

You have a exquisit singing voice

Why is the yamato 1/60 going for $124 dollars from dealers but on ebay you can get them for $69 using pay now? are these different quality?

I got a 3 yammies but I cant aford anymore for awhile thats why the kms are so dandy I got an extra vf-1s if you want to buy it(still in celofane)

glue job on the micro peg ,no mess too! you would never find out i can even unplug the shoe from the peg ,if i want.I should have never tryed to over torck the foot to make it match the other leg i think i tryed to make a 45 degree bend and snap- it -did!

what sucks is that i got to use a analog video camera that i plug into my comuters ATI all in wonder card with RCA inputs ,for making pictures I wish I could find a cheep digital camera that is good enough for my valkyries but not top of the line.Im serious Ireally fixed the robot its strong.