arbit

Patron Downloads here. https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels

A test to see how the model holds up to posing and processing. She's doing very well.

This is a shoulder length version. Front profile doesnt change. In the DYRL VT-1 cockpit scene, Minmay's hair shrinks in the back with anime magic. Otherwise her hair is quite long in other scenes. But in the cockpit scene it suddenly appears shoulder length. Her yellow and black shoulder pads need to show clearly, but if her hair is long, the shoulder pads will be obscured, and ruin the main design element of her cockpit suit. Otherwise for the hair to be long and not hide the shoulder pads, it would have to be long and thin like a tube in place of the backpack, which doesn't look right.

I painted up my kid's Nerf gun a few years back too, after seeing an Adam Savage video. Okay, between some FIFA matches, I made good progress on VT-1 Minmay's suit and hair. Comments and feedback appreciated before finalizing the seated figure. I tucked her long hair behind the backpack, do you think that's a good idea for seated as well as standing pose, or should I let the hair flow over the backpack? No joy on the helmet yet, but we can have a no-helmet version until I figure it out or someone volunteers to make it.

I understand... I clean everything out after each print too. But the design of my printer does not require relevelling, it just screws right back on. And I found that relevelling is not needed so often anyway.

Thanks Urashiman. But as I said I don't have these calibration issues. Its just print and go with the Elegoo. I achieved this because, I use only factory settings and manufacturer settings. and I use only the same brand resin with my brand printer, because I assume they have been factory tested.

Not from my experience. I expected the worst when I first got into it, but that has not been the case at all. A 1000 grams of resin for USD 20-30 can print hundreds of my mini figures and lasts ages. Unlike my detested HP printer which I cannot hate enough! As for the machine, my elegoo runs problem free, with excellent service from the manufacturer (for example they sent me a replacement LCD screen for a minor bubble problem, that I still have not even installed yet, among other freebies). But that's just my experience. Others may have a different experience. My approach is I don't buy new models, I wait for all the testing and reviews to come out first. As for the ease of use and learning curve, I don't have any of the problems people complain about, and I attribute most problems I face to my own user error or lack of experience. I learned not to use fan settings or off brand resins for example. I don't want to be mean, but "pro" youtube tutorials make dozens of mistakes, such as ripping the supports off without care, not filtering the resin bay between uses, ignoring manufacturer settings, not using non-scratch tools, using add-ons and hacks, scratching up the lift base, scratching the resin bay, mixing resins, letting dust/water/alcohol into their resin, spilling resin on the machine, and a mistake we all make, not supporting the figure properly and then blaming it on the machine. My hobby costs have shrunk to near zero since I got into 3D design. And with 4 kids, that's a blessing.

😍😍

My two cents to help you out if you don't mind: Detaching from supports means your supports are not strong enough. If a part is in the 3cm height range, I would use 0.35-40 minimum tip diameter. You don't need to use a lot of supports, but you need to anchor the piece with strong supports from the beginning. For larger pieces, say 6cm height, I have had success with 0.5-0.6mm tip diameter. So first you anchor with 4 or 5 strong supports then you can space them out so you don't have too many supports and ruin the piece. For the warping and wall diameter, I would say you need minimum 1mm thickness for the walls. But as importantly, you need to orient the print so the walls build up vertically as much as possible, without too many steep angles. You can get away with very thin thickness, but it has to be oriented vertically to succeed. So for example, if we take the nose cone, I would angle it nose down vertically, with a slight angle sloping upwards (somewhere between 45 - 70 degrees), and let the fuselage build up like a cone, with supports hidden underneath the nose cone. For the detaching of hollow objects, you might also have a vacuum effect causing problems. You can research youtube how to deal with that. Basically you need to orient differently or add holes to stop the vaccum from forming. For the small parts, you have to orient them so that the thin parts build on themselves. You will lose extremely minute details at this scale, but that's life. For small figures in the 3cm height range, I need at least 0.2mm thickness for a detail to show. Hope that helps. Please let me know how it goes.

Im working on it. It was one of the first figure I wished I could make, but did not have the modeling skills. I know enough tricks now to design her uniform and all the details. But no way can I make her helmet yet... Or can I?

Thanks. I have variants of her on my Patreon. I would definitely recommend an inexpensive Elegoo Mars. The learning curve is pretty easy. Feel free to ask me any questions before getting into it.

This is a Minmay Red Dress pilot figure for your 1/72 valks. Free download here https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels

This is a new stand-alone Flashback Hikaru for your VF-4. Hope to see him painted up by the pros around here! Free downloads here https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels

This is a Minmay Red Dress pilot figure for your valks. Free download here https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels This is scaled for 1/72, I hope some of you can test and let me know what scaling works for your 1/48. An accurate rescale would be 150%, however I suggest you test 145%, 150% and 155% during the same print, and let me know if any adjustments are needed.

You're answers are very enlightening. It seems that you are considering Delta as continuing SDF without the basic world building, therefore it requires a built-in audience. And this may be a matter of taste, but some audience members, like myself, prefer new world building and character and plot building to be as precise in follow ups, as in the first series. I find that true in Hollywood movies as well, or TV series, I always prefer the build up, and rarely is the follow up as good because I specifically wish they would slow down and develop the plot and characters like they did at first. But this approach seems to apply to a lot of anime these days, whether it is a follow up or not, to assume we know character types and tropes. So it seems some audience members, particularly us older guys, can't buy in to the plot or characters. Kind of like when I don't understand why in the world my kids use Steam or Discord or Tik Tok.... 😁

Question from an old fart: If Delta were the first and only Macross. And there was no SDF or DYRL, would Macross have a fan following spanning the entire globe for the next 40 years?

An old timers thread would be a good idea: A safe space for men and women who still think that Macross II is the new Macross, and are unable to make any coherent comment about Delta what so ever.

Thanks. I'm glad the "over-the-hill" old timers like my work. The pilots will be up on my Patreon after corrections.

@MechTech Phenomenal milling work. Beautiful to see styrene worked like that. And on my workbench....

Thanks. A backseat figure would need some of the legs trimmed.

Sure. Please provide me the measurements and all my pilot figures can be adjusted. Sorry I don't have 1/48 in my collection, only 1/72 and 1/60. Too big for me. Even in my 1/60s, it's not one size fits all. For example, there is more leg room in the Arcadia VF-4 than the YF-19 and VF-1.

@MechTech That's so nice of you. I wanted to thank you for your positive encouragement to all the member on this forum. @SpacePirateNeko Those are some dusty fast packs. Love 'em!!! So how did it happen exactly? You slipped and bought two giant subs 😁?

WIP for 1/48. But I am still sizing the fit, if anyone has the back seat dimensions that would be great! (length from console to seat, seat height, seat length, height from seat to canopy). Free downloads https://www.patreon.com/posts/74404704

Here is a figure for your Hase VF-1D. Free download. https://www.patreon.com/posts/74404704

Free download for your models https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels Test fitted with my kicker VF-1.