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I suspected as much. There are many conflicting articles online. I assumed I was just an idiot. Series it is. I need to study up. But I thought that wiring in series has limitations on the number of leds a battery can run. Normally in parallel, I do have a resistor for each led.

I was reading this guide for parallel with a common resistor. Didn't realize this was so tricky for a bunch of LEDs. It's for a good cause: Try and guess.

90cm. Whoah!

For 6 red LEDs in parallel, I entered the following into the LED calculator to get 100 Ohms. Source Voltage: 9 Forward LED Voltage: 2 Led Current mA: 120 mA (20mA * 6 leds = 120) Resistor Value: 58 Ohms (rounded to 100) By your calculation to get around 350 Ohms for the reds, it seems you are entering 20mA not 120 for LED current. How does that account for the 6 leds? Do we not account for multiple leds when wiring in Parallel? (The reason I am parallel is due to space, to avoids multiple shrink tubing.) No hurry...

Sorry about that. there's no hurry. Enjoy the fight.

It seems I am using the Resistor Calculators wrong and getting wrong values.

What Wattage resistor are you using? The only info I have is that it is 100R. Can you post up the Votlage and the Milliamps of the SMDs? I have a range, not exact data on the leds. The standard red LED is 20mA at 2V drop and standard blue LED is 20mA at 3.5V drop. And the power source is it 9 or 12? I am using a 9v battery. I see one of my mistakes: I shouldn't have different types of leds on the same resistor. Can I keep the reds in parallel with the 100 Ohm resistor, and add a 300 Ohm resistor to the blue?

Gents, I have been defeated by science. I need some help with resistors and mixed types of leds. I have 6 red 0402 SMDs and 1 blue SMD, I am trying to wire with a single resistor to save space. Based on the Resistor Calculators, I need one single 100 Ohm resistor for these in parallel from 9-12v power source. But when I wired them, I got two problems: 1- All the red SMDs work, but the blue SMD doesnt light up. It works on its own but not with the reds. 2- The resistor heats up tremendously, cant even touch it. So what am I not understanding? Is it that reds dont play with blues; Is it that I MUST have a resistor for each SMD; Or, is it that I should increase the resistor size? Advice appreciated.

Festive. I like that. I think you solved it for me. As a fleet, they are definitely so. They would display great together. If only I had the space.

Delta Still haven't decided which 31, maybe Arad. Would you say the color schemes are modern, or racing, or what?

With all the hate this product gets, I let it cure for a full week as a test before masking. The Tamiya tape didn't strip it after that. So, its not convenient for quick usage, but I had to try something given the fact that I bought so many bottles. Got the photo-etched bridge up. I needed a lot of practice rolling the rails and handling them before I got it right. Not easy... Lots of failed attempts and mangled rails.

Those look pretty cool. But it all depends on whether they do the effects you want and if they will fit in your kit. If you take off-the-shelf and don't want to solder, you wont be able to customize the fit. If you have only one project that needs lighting, or just want to give it a try, then this plugnplay might be cost effective for you. On the other hand, if you plan to light up a lot of projects, it might be worth your while to learn how to solder and buy packs of blinking/flickering/steady LEDs off ebay, pre-wired for the voltage you want to use. They are between USD 2-5 for bundles of 10. You will also need wires, switches, and battery packs, all of which sell of USD 2-3 for packs of 10 or more. I recently ordered these to help with wiring in some tight spots.

My feelings exactly. Magnificent paint finish.

My kids custom stand. Thought it would be a 30 min job...took all day!

I actually asked the Japanese guy on youtube. As NZEOD guessed, it is a blinking led with fiber, plus a neopixel led for the gun. I wouldnt worry about the glue, its deep and dark back there. I guess fiber strands could be jammed around the gun led. Great, now I gotta go try it. ...And nope. Couldn't blink the led while neo running. I tried "Blink without Delay"...still didn't work. But I'm sure it can be done.

Naah. I've got bigger problems to deal with.

And the Best Photography Award again goes to...

Why do this to yourself? Meanwhile I'm laying 50 stupidly small fiber optic cables that I never planned for. This 1/1000 piece of .... is busting at the seams.

Glad to help you save time with some tips. This should be a breeze for you. Get yourself an Uno R3 Starter kit with a selection of electronic parts, and you should be good to go. Then you can follow some Learn Arduino tutorials. Start at Lesson 0. It should take you no more than a few minutes to set it up and have a few sketches working.

That's what I keep hearing. Is it recommended to decant Krylon primer?

Has anyone had a problem with Vallejo Air Primer peeling off with masking tape? Just checking before I commit.

From the very first post in this thread. Seems to have been a very reliable source.

How do I calculate what size battery I need, 100, 500, or 1200 mAh? I have, say, 300ma servo, 100ma SD Card, 20ma leds, 4ma amp, and an 8ohm speaker. So I approximate that a 500mAH battery will run this for an hour. I've switched over the entire sketch from the Arduino Uno board to the miniature Trinket Pro. Wow, went off without a hitch. The pin numbers and functions are all the same and no special code was required. I've got 16 data pins running leds, sound and servos from a 4cm board. Call me surprised. Two lessons here: 1. Arduino is idiot proof 2. You can learn anything on Youtube

Good point. Frontier valks may be too complicated for 1/100. Would it have to be a complete rethink of the transformation? Still would be nice to see the sleek VF-25s in this scale.

I think there is a high probability we will see Frontier HMR. But we need to concentrate on SDF now. Bend Bandai to our will.