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Everything posted by arbit
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Amazing work. I dont even know how to use photoshop. Couple questions: - How do you test for the parts clearance and fit in transformation? Does your software animate the movements? - How many separate parts does this have right now? Best of luck getting through successfully.
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Planning to build the Fokker D.VII Albatros single-seater. Any comments from you WWI specialists if this is the right version flown by Roy and Hikaru? There was a two-seater, and an OAW version of the Fokker D.VII as well.
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See the toy section. Those are the original Takatoku Destroids. They are collectible, but not very expensive...around USD 100 a piece on Ebay. As far as a full set of die cast Destroid toys, they are the only game in town, in addition to the 1/100 Conversion kit. The Regult and Glaug were planned, but never made. They were also later sold as Matchbox Robotech toys (and Exo Squad), but at less (and less) quality. I never liked the mold or size. I am Destroid-less. See my signature.
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Cool. My next project is motorizing the Nautilus. I've put that off until I picked up more experience with wiring. The question is whether I use Arduino, or the old fashion way with the DPDT switch that you taught me. So maybe we can learn this together.
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Serious man-cave material. I'm blown away by this.
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Okay, so I am off parallel. Can we mix led colors in series with one resistor, or should we keep reds alone , blues alone, etc., with a single resistor for each series? Does that have the same risk as the parallel circuit, if one burns out, the others get too much current?
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I had just been wondering about that Elysion. Nice paint. So many tiny details.
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up at amiami. Nabbed one...My self control at work. Dont want to wait who-knows-how-long for Arad.
- 20137 replies
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- macross delta
- vf-31 siegfried
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(and 4 more)
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I suspected as much. There are many conflicting articles online. I assumed I was just an idiot. Series it is. I need to study up. But I thought that wiring in series has limitations on the number of leds a battery can run. Normally in parallel, I do have a resistor for each led.
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I was reading this guide for parallel with a common resistor. Didn't realize this was so tricky for a bunch of LEDs. It's for a good cause: Try and guess.
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For 6 red LEDs in parallel, I entered the following into the LED calculator to get 100 Ohms. Source Voltage: 9 Forward LED Voltage: 2 Led Current mA: 120 mA (20mA * 6 leds = 120) Resistor Value: 58 Ohms (rounded to 100) By your calculation to get around 350 Ohms for the reds, it seems you are entering 20mA not 120 for LED current. How does that account for the 6 leds? Do we not account for multiple leds when wiring in Parallel? (The reason I am parallel is due to space, to avoids multiple shrink tubing.) No hurry...
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Sorry about that. there's no hurry. Enjoy the fight.
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It seems I am using the Resistor Calculators wrong and getting wrong values.
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What Wattage resistor are you using? The only info I have is that it is 100R. Can you post up the Votlage and the Milliamps of the SMDs? I have a range, not exact data on the leds. The standard red LED is 20mA at 2V drop and standard blue LED is 20mA at 3.5V drop. And the power source is it 9 or 12? I am using a 9v battery. I see one of my mistakes: I shouldn't have different types of leds on the same resistor. Can I keep the reds in parallel with the 100 Ohm resistor, and add a 300 Ohm resistor to the blue?
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Gents, I have been defeated by science. I need some help with resistors and mixed types of leds. I have 6 red 0402 SMDs and 1 blue SMD, I am trying to wire with a single resistor to save space. Based on the Resistor Calculators, I need one single 100 Ohm resistor for these in parallel from 9-12v power source. But when I wired them, I got two problems: 1- All the red SMDs work, but the blue SMD doesnt light up. It works on its own but not with the reds. 2- The resistor heats up tremendously, cant even touch it. So what am I not understanding? Is it that reds dont play with blues; Is it that I MUST have a resistor for each SMD; Or, is it that I should increase the resistor size? Advice appreciated.
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Festive. I like that. I think you solved it for me. As a fleet, they are definitely so. They would display great together. If only I had the space.
- 20137 replies
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- macross delta
- vf-31 siegfried
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Delta Still haven't decided which 31, maybe Arad. Would you say the color schemes are modern, or racing, or what?
- 20137 replies
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- macross delta
- vf-31 siegfried
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With all the hate this product gets, I let it cure for a full week as a test before masking. The Tamiya tape didn't strip it after that. So, its not convenient for quick usage, but I had to try something given the fact that I bought so many bottles. Got the photo-etched bridge up. I needed a lot of practice rolling the rails and handling them before I got it right. Not easy... Lots of failed attempts and mangled rails.
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Those look pretty cool. But it all depends on whether they do the effects you want and if they will fit in your kit. If you take off-the-shelf and don't want to solder, you wont be able to customize the fit. If you have only one project that needs lighting, or just want to give it a try, then this plugnplay might be cost effective for you. On the other hand, if you plan to light up a lot of projects, it might be worth your while to learn how to solder and buy packs of blinking/flickering/steady LEDs off ebay, pre-wired for the voltage you want to use. They are between USD 2-5 for bundles of 10. You will also need wires, switches, and battery packs, all of which sell of USD 2-3 for packs of 10 or more. I recently ordered these to help with wiring in some tight spots.
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VF-1J “S-FAST PACK” Config. Ver. 1.1 W-St. – 1/72 HASEGAWA MODEL KIT
arbit replied to Andrea's topic in The Workshop!
My feelings exactly. Magnificent paint finish. -
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I actually asked the Japanese guy on youtube. As NZEOD guessed, it is a blinking led with fiber, plus a neopixel led for the gun. I wouldnt worry about the glue, its deep and dark back there. I guess fiber strands could be jammed around the gun led. Great, now I gotta go try it. ...And nope. Couldn't blink the led while neo running. I tried "Blink without Delay"...still didn't work. But I'm sure it can be done.
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