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arbit

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Everything posted by arbit

  1. arbit

    Hasegawa VF-31

    So we can expect a step-by-step?
  2. arbit

    Hasegawa VF-31

    Now thats a beautiful birdy. I can just imagine all the schemes people are gonna come up with.
  3. Hmmm... Interesting thread. I would direct those of you who are concerned about your collecting habits to an interview on CollectioDX with a collector who left the game. Very informative. As for me, I hate "collecting" and I'm no "completist". I "buy" toys that I love dearly. I play with them and pose them. If I have loved it for years, and fully expect to treasure it for years to come, I buy it, otherwise I stay away, or end up selling it anyway. For most people (not all), I think toys and models are as harmless and inexpensive a hobby as you could have. Its not like we are collecting houses, ferraris or Arabian horses here. And you certainly wont run anyone over from a valkyrie addiction!
  4. It takes a real toy company.
  5. Thanks. I recently used smooth-on 30 to make a mold and found it really nice. Do you use a pressure chamber for the resin, or just pour?
  6. Xigfrid, you're a genius! Here are the smallest components I could find for the motorized valk: 7mm height motor and 2mm height limit switches. This might actually be doable.
  7. It is STRANGE that we even have this thread, when I've seen that discussion of even recasting spare parts is forbidden.
  8. That sucks. Live and learn I guess. Maybe you can recast a piece?
  9. I see people also use Revoltech or other ball joints. Seems doable.
  10. I'd want to put strong friggin magnets at the ends of some of those ball joints to make them poseable. What do you think?
  11. The enamel must have melted it. What was the material... Soft stuff like an o-ring?
  12. Great paint job. Very professional. While you're at it with your own kit, I noticed you had the same problem with your canopy as I did. It doesn't close flush with the cockpit. I think its a mistake in the mold. To fix it, I sanded down one side of the swivel joint before encasing it in the body. You have to figure out just which side and what needs sanding. It should close perfectly.
  13. Could you give a few snapshots of your peg tools and how you trim and place them?
  14. arbit

    Hi-Metal R

    To me, the Spartan's the best HM-R yet (Along with the Monster). Great detail and panel lines and decals. They didn't cut corners on this guy. Best of all, we have new modern metal joints.
  15. Thanks Derex. Did these Invids need pegs to attach the parts, or just super glue?
  16. More photos please. Zombie Attack! Been watching the Walking Dead, so I can appreciate this a bit
  17. arbit

    Hi-Metal R

    Totally agree. Respect! Rebuild! Revival! Reboot!
  18. Could you give us a video of your process and tools? That would be instructive.
  19. Never built a resin. I need to learn quick so I can trade in my Matchbox Invid.
  20. Taking a look at my Yamato kitbash idea. Unfortunately, the base of the 1/700 IJN Yamato is too wide for the 1/1000 Space Battleship Yamato, although according to the scales it should have fit since the Space Battleship is bigger than the IJN. Seems that the SBY is designed with a thinner hull. Comparing it to my 1/500 SBY, the IJN base is actually a perfect fit. The gun barrels also look great. But the bridge seems too small. It might actually be okay. Not sure. I need to think real hard about whether I want to do this. Is it worth it? At that size, it would have to be fully electronic. But are the scales all messed up, or just right? You guys decide. And just for fun, guess which is my favorite?
  21. Yessssssssssssssss. Please.
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