arbit

M&M 1/72 pilots available now. Milia with Komilia is the public version based on your votes! https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels

Cool. Which Breetai is that?

Thank you. I thought there was one 3D figure model of the female pilot character in Macross 30.

Some more standing Rabbit pilots for your build. Lynn and Hikaru rabbits! Can also serve as deck crew.

Thanks a lot. Would you be able to rip the character figures from the Macross 30 game? And you are welcome to check out my free 3D figure downloads.

Misa Rabbit Pilot!

I came up with a new Dog Fighter pose, with the handles attached. It might work directly in the valk with some customizing.

Do you feel the need?

good feedback. Thanks. Maybe I can adjust a bit for that kind of pose. But you know, the legs are pretty long in the line art.

Something for you aircraft heads.

Wow, busy workbench! The Fighter, Ladder and Figure are theoretically the same scales. How do they look?

Whoaaaaaaaaa! 😍 Thanks.

Did you see my Captain Misa? I have lots of Misas. And more coming. Check out my Patreon.

Get your dioramas ready!

@Bolt

Hi. Well I plan to release the figures. The screens are mine, so I could release those. But the main consoles are from the "SDF-1 Bridge" sold on Cults.

v2

These were v1. I like them a lot. Any feedback? V2 could have some updates.

Thanks. Coming soon.

And the crew are ready. Aren't they cute. I'm really happy with how Global came out. https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels

V1 compared to V2. Whenever I go back to a figure, I end up redoing almost everything. Although I already printed V1 and he came out pretty nice, V2 should be much better. V1 was one of my first figures, I used a sculpting method for the jacket with a very dense clay sphere to pull and tug and shape. And his face is the only face I have ever actually sculpted. For the V2 jacket I used a completely opposite approach, with a very simple mesh (the large simple polygons shown below), which allows me to control the shaping and symmetry much better. Then I add density with subdivision once the overall shape is formed. You can see how I model the creases and pockets right on the jacket once it is done, and add clothing details separately with a shrinkwrap. This method works easily for figures since they are organic and don't have sharp edges. It wouldn't work as easily for hard surface modeling, unless you know how to keep the overall form and sharp edges while smoothing out the shape (which is why you see some mech models look Low Poly, unless the modeler really knows what he is doing. Which I don't yet).

Regarding LEDs burning out: 1. If they are parallel wired, you don't have a big worry because one burning out will not effect the rest. In serial wiring, if one goes out and they all go out. 2. I would worry about the 3v source going to those LEDs. Most LEDs cannot handle 3v for very long. Some white LEDs are rated for 3-3.2 forward voltage, but best practice is that each LED needs at least a 50 Ohm resistor for long-term safety. So unless these LEDS are special and are rated above 3V, I would not trust them. 3. I definitely would not trust the white battery pack, so make sure you have access to switch it out.

I could help you with your power plan. What do you have in mind? An On/Off switch for the entire lighting, or something more controlled with an arduino? Either can be fairly simple. Question 1: Do you plan to solder?

Dude, you're like an old friend. Anything you need, just let me know.