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Awesome. I want a transformation video.

Definitely. It's a beautiful little toy. But you have to accept that it's HMR 1/100 quality, not DX or Yamato quality. You just cant get that level of perfection in 1/100. We wont have a good 1/60 from Bandai or Arcadia for at least a few years, so it's the best we got till then. Plus the fact that Bandai re-engineered an entirely new joint system using modern materials makes it even more exciting.

Thanks Urashiman. You've gone beyond the call of duty! 1. I have to say that your "Not Gate" is hilarious. I am studying that and see how it goes. 2. The logic circuit is beyond me. Unfortunately I am just a nube. 3. I have one of those SMD switches. But the tactile click is too strong and needs a side lever too.

Cool. I would be really interested in what you have in mind. From what I have seen, the SMD side switches you mentioned are also Normally Open, so that doesn't improve my situation. But if you have seen any Normally Closed SMD side switches, that would solve the whole issue. My Specs are: The DC motor is 3v-6v. The power source is a 4.5v LiPo battery. The limit switches are Normally Open.

That would be awesome! Needs to stop with my little switches when they close and give a pulse.

Thanks. But I have been trying to program it with Arduino for over a year, and haven't been able to crack it. The basics are easy, but I can't make it stop and reverse at a limit using this motor driver. I need an easy sketch I can copy and use, but haven't found a good answer on Arduino boards.

I'm pinning the final video at the top. WIP follows. I've been working on this for a while on the Workbench, and since it has passed a reasonable stage, I thought I would give it its own thread. This is also a call out for help to finalize, because I need to find really small limit switches that are Normally Closed (Edit: This has been solved with an Arduino sketch and instructions attached further down). I found small limit switches based on a similar project by DorobouHige, but they turned out to be Normally Open, which does not work in my wiring diagram for reversing a DC motor with limit switches. This is what the limit switches I have look like (9x5.5x2mm ). I believe they may be available in Japanese electronics stores with Normally Closed options. Larger "micro" switches wont fit in the Valk. Any help solving this would be greatly appreciated.

Did you customize the canopy to open close? And I really doubted it would work, but here it is.

Yes it is loud! But not as noisy in real life. Probably because it's low speed. Some more progress with test parts. Hopefully with the real parts and silicone oil it will be smoother.

Transformed mine for the first time. Love the joints! They didn't cut corners on this one.

Great creative work as always.

For that, I would join my kids in Minecraft.

Rated TV-MA for gore and excessive violence. Valks will be harmed in this project. I'm facing one hurdle now because my tiny limit switches 9x5.5x2mm turned out to be Normally Open, and I cant find limit switches that small Normally Closed.

Yeah, those are awesome. The 0402 are even better for tight spots like the warning lights on my Yamato and Nautilus antenas. But based on a recent disaster, I avoid the ones soldered on the metal wires, because they all break. I prefer the type on the hair-thin, plastic-coated wires.

I have no idea how or if this will work out, but it sure is fun to try. Those are just test parts for fiddling around.

Well yes. As soon as you mask it will never look that crystal clear again. I am thinking of masking the cockpit this time and leaving the canopy till last.

Awesome!!!

Lets get ready to rumbllllllllllllle. Whats the best mask for Humbrol Clear?

Coooooooool!