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0402 I never noticed that, but the white mcd is very high compared to the others.

The white leds on the blue wing have heated up and slightly warped the light ports. You can barely see it in my last image. I always expected this might happen, but this is the first time. What's strange is that it happened on the balanced blue wing, which has like-voltage SMDs, AND it has a 1,000 Ohm resistor, which is more than 10x the requirement. I think I left it on too long during testing, because it is usually cool to the touch. I also neglected to coat it in epoxy before closing the wing, which might have helped. I will live with it, if that's the only major problem. They still work anyway. Any ideas how to avoid this in the future?

I don't have that. How about white glue?

The motor is also loosening my screws. I will have to epoxy them down.

You got that right! I was going to use a small speaker, but then decided to put in the biggest, meanest one I have. Anyway, it's all just for fun. Can't be perfect.

Optical Electronic Systems: Check. Brainwave Control System Interface: Nominal. BDI System: Nominal. Switch to PSX sampling data and simulate. Synchronization Complete.

So you did bring the wings. Good thinking. We need to see them. More pics!

Good job, I doubt we will ever see an official Kairos battroid. What parts did you bring over?

Is that a Kairos battroid you made? Why are you going to use the finish? You plan to polish it? Sounds risky over decals. Better wait for the pros to reply first.

Godspeed, Ranger 03.

The wing led wires are anchored with enough leeway for movement. All the wires collect near the cockpit area and go straight up the hatch, above the motor. Keeping gears completely clear for movement. I will test for a few days before attaching.

I removed the resistors off the wings and moved them outside the valk... Causing wing movement problems. Lighting the wings with movement has been the most difficult part of this whole thing. Almost there. But no guarantees. (Wiring the wings story: I needed to parallel two white 0402 SMDs and a blue and a red on each wing to pull this off. Can't do series because the Arduino gives out 5v, which is not enough for 3x LEDs. The blue and the whites have the same forward voltage, so no problem there, you calculate the resistor value for three leds. BUT the reds and the whites do not have the same forward voltage. You are not supposed to parallel non-like voltage leds, but I must... To do this, I burned about three sets of trial leds. I kept increasing resistor value until I realized that you have to give all three leds the same resistor as if you have the red alone, otherwise it will suck everything up and burn out. Tested successfuly for an hour.)

Some nice chipping there. I don't have the patience for such detail.

Great work. Look forward to more updates.

Nice work! I look forward to seeing it painted. I'm sure you learned a lot on this project. I cant even fathom how you guys do it.

Nice paint palette! Love the Bug Eye. I need one myself.

A lot of greeblies on the Arm are from the Hasegawa landing gears. The heavy base Arm is entirely bashed from the Bandai 1/72 Valk, which is great for spare parts, if for nothing else.

Your son likes it? In that case I am really proud of myself. How old is he? My oldest is 13 and he seems to like it too. Big DYRL and Macross II fan.

Respect for both of you not losing your cool. Good people.

Thanks, but I still need to put it all together. Actual credit goes to bonobeet, DorobouHige2008, WM Cheng's Step-By-Steps, Mechtech, NZEOD, and these guys.

Note that the launch arm is not yet glued together. I have 17 wires that will run from the valk through the launch arm down the 5mm copper tube. There is plenty of space, but wires dont travel at right angles. So permanently gluing the claws is a last step.

No that's my kids' 1/44 Bandai. I refuse to do a Falcon until they make a 1/72 with opening interior like the one I grew up with. Can it be so hard?

Test fit!

That's why you need the big saw. Cuts through the resin like butter.

In that case, you definitely need a razor saw. Classic Japanese tool. They cut in reverse stroke and are very thin.