arbit
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Everything posted by arbit
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Another Pengbuzz special! Looks great.
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Question: Are there knock offs of the Sentinel Riobot VR bikes? I see some low prices on Ebay and didn't want to accidentally get a KO version. Thanks.
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They're hollow? Okay that has me interested. How thick would you estimate the shell is? 2-3mm or even thicker? Rough estimate. Also, I assume it is one piece, so there is no access to the interior for the hull, right? I'm going to ask him for a two part mold so I can get inside the hull for lighting.
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Hachette Collection 1/24 VF-1S (subscription collectable)
arbit replied to CF18's topic in Model kits
For my taste, this will be one of the best Macross toys ever when completed: Remote controlled canopy, landing gear, and the classic Macross verniers. It's fantastic. But I wouldn't drop that kind of money on a toy. And the subscription approach is not interesting to me either. -
Cute pic!
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I hope they get on with it and finish the Destroids. All of them.
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Salamander, Nice start on the diorama. I'm actually doing something similar to scratch build Hagrid's Hut with my daughter. This is a practice run before we do it again with better materials. I've made some progress with my gear set up for the 1/72 Flight Deck. I put a detailed tutorial on my Model Kits Thread.
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Thanks Bolt. I like hearts I wanted to give a pre-primer on working with gears for total newbies like me. Most gear tutorials start with important info like gear types, torque and speed, and gear ratios. But we need to take a step back and collect the parts we need, and understand how they work together. 1. Gears: You can find cheap sets of gears on Ebay. I recommend getting the biggest sets with the most variety of parts, such as the sets that have the black pre-drilled supporting bars, in the image below, for stabilizing the axles (Or get a drill press. I found that hand drilling axle holes is very difficult, because even if you're hole is off by half a millimeter, the axle rod can be off by several mm depending on how long the axle is). These gears sets are usually for 2mm axles. This is important because it determines the rest of the parts we need. In fact the 2mm gear sets will have a variety of 1.95mm holes for tight non-moving gears, and 2.05mm holes for free rotating gears. 2. Axles: We need different lengths of 2mm steel axles. I got everything from a couple cm all the way up to 25cm lengths. (i.e. do not get 3mm axles, like I did at first to match a 3mm motor, because it will be harder to custom drill the 2mm gears.) 3. Motors: We are usually dealing with N20 motors with M3 size shafts. These can be coupled with the 2mm axle rods using the "3mm to 2mm N20 Brass Motor Connectors". If you have an M2 or M4 motor you can get a coupler for that as well. I keep a variety of motor speeds and volts on hand to address different needs. 4. Styrene: You can get a cheap assortment bag of different size rods and tubes on ebay. With those and some 0.3mm to 1mm styrene sheets, you will be able to scratch build any supporting structures you need for the gears. You can do all the above by hand, and salvage parts from your printer, but with some of the cheap specialized parts above, you will get off to a much easier start.
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Hachette Collection 1/24 VF-1S (subscription collectable)
arbit replied to CF18's topic in Model kits
That's so awesome. I thought Hachette might do a Vf-1 eventually. -
Great animation Pedro! Really brought back memories. How long does something like that take you to complete? Thanks for sharing. I am subscribed!
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tekering's BItComp entry #3 - VF-11 Thunderbolt Super Battroid resin kit
arbit replied to tekering's topic in The Workshop!
Cool stuff. Waiting for more progress. -
That is a sweet tool. But yeah, way too expensive.
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I came up with a new gear for the blast deflectors. Now just need to slow the motor down a bit. The gear works like a lever to push the deflectors up, and hits the two limits at the same time. The lever rides up on the pla plate to get a full open position. I also watched a lot of cabinet making videos to figure out how to lay in the hinges just right
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Xigfrid, that's sooo cool. I love the Sharon gimmick.
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What is your sanding process to eliminate the 3D print lines? I always struggle with anything printed to come out smooth.
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Oh my... Is it 1985 again?
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Are you sure that is printed not resin cast? I dont see those print lines. Nice little SDF-1 there. In many ways I like the look of those old molds better than the modern kits. Any more pics?
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I listen to takering. Thanks dude! I was really hating this figure.
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Yes stay right here! Its interesting for newbies like me to follow your learning process with 3D printing.
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derex, Looks like the seam line drill sergeants got to you before I did. Get those legs smooth and shiny!!!
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Looks fantastic Thom! Could be an 80s movie prop.
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Thanks. I have a lot to learn about gears to figure this out. I'm thinking about a double rack and pinion. There are two options, a long thread vs. a perpendicular worm gear. From what I know the worm gear will wear down gears from the friction and may slow down the speed. The long thread may be hard to stabilize. I wonder if anyone knows which option is preferable and why?
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Yes, I've wracked my brain trying other ideas. Draw me up what your thinking: the belt drive and the "mechanical linkages".
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There are 1/72 Blast Deflectors on Shapeways with workable actuators, but they are too large to fit my Trumpeter deck and other kits I am aware of. So you have to build your own flight deck, which is probably a good idea, because all you need is a 5mm thick pla plate and add the details, which I had to do anyway.
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This is a test of my mechanism to raise the Blast Deflectors. It has some issues, so I need to make it more reliable or come up with a different approach. The way it works is the styrene bar raises the three deflector panels by pushing them up, and then the deflectors drop by gravity. I may actually end up using paper hinges, because I need zero resistance for the deflectors to drop back down. The angle of the bar causes them to rise in sequence. The problem with the twin motors is they get out of synch. The possible solution I found is that if the limit switches are on only one motor, with each up/down cycle they can realign, because the bar hits the motor on one side and is forced to a stop, while the other motor catches up and hits the limit switch. (I need to add a second force stop at the top of one thread.) But I have a couple problems with this solution: 1) The motor on the right sometimes locks when the bar hits it and forces the motor to stop (I ordered small springs to see if that prevents the locking). Even if I switch motors, the locking still occurs on the right side, so it might be an unlevel platform or a slightly off angle (The threads have to be perfectly parallel). 2) I don't know if this forced stop for a couple seconds while the other motor catches up will burn out the engine. I am using a boring 1/72 Trumpeter FLight Deck, but trying to add some details to spruce it up, and photo etch tie-downs.
