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That actually looks like a fun build. Ain't no Revel though You're gonna have to put Macross aside for a bit.

Whoa!

Thanks. But I don't know, seems something is not right. This is the affordable small hobby printer Elegoo Mars 2. Build Volume: 129mm(L)*80mm(W)*150mm(H) The smooth surface of resin is why I decided to give it a go, despite my utter lack of computer experience. You can learn anything with youtube these days. It seems Macross can motivate me to learn anything too. The first few days on Blender in a 3D environment had my head spinning. The last video game I played was Tecmo Bowl!!! I still can't design anything. Tutorials bore me to death, so I skipped ahead to 3D printing stuff right away, and working my way backwards.

@Salamander Hmmmm, Thanks I'll look into it. I thought there was something wrong with my eyes.

Here is the second and final run. Fortunately, I avoided my previous mistakes. A lot more details show now. Do you think she is a bit chubbier compared to the print preview screen cap I posted last time? I don't know what causes this. The print preview render looks much thinner than the actual printed object, It may have to do with shadows and perspective, or it may be that resin printers make everything look thicker. I did solidify her to add some thickness to the clothing and other thin layers for printing, which effects the whole figure. But not this much. Side by side of render and print. Maybe Minmay needs to try the cibo diet.

I would be fired if I printed the breakdance pose! I went though so much misery trying to mold and cast stuff that I finally gave up, and took a dive into the resin 3D printers. They don't have those print lines and the new hobby ones are cheap too.

A gentleman only looks a lady in the eyes I plan to make free Minmays for the regulars on this thread. PM me if your interested, you just pay shipping and handling. I have 2 poses, and once I get good prints I will get back to you.

I got my first resin print off the Mars 2. Did I print a practice duck, or a boat, or a screw? A chess piece? Noooooo! We print Minmay. Overall it's a success for first time transfering a game .stl file to a printable figure. There are some damaged areas around the chest, but this is user error, because I placed the supports too close to the body and they stuck. So all thats left is to improve my supports, and it seems we will have some Macross figures. There are some tutorials on youtube on how fix game files for 3D printing, but there is no easy step-by-step. Each file is different and it takes a lot of trial and error and multiple iterations and software apps until the file is somewhat printable.

Thanks. The file definitely has a lot of issues for printing. Would you be able to look at it and give me some pointers, or let me know if it is hopeless?

What you do with the second one is extreme battle damage and weathering!

Now THAT is cool! Perfect shades of blue and white. Very nice! Max was my favorite. He was just too cool.

Your kitbash is beginning to look like a little Hulk Buster!

I can't see Minmay breakdancing and not share it with you guys This is Adobe Mixamo, controlling movement of an .stl file. Keep in mind I have zero experience with design software and 3D printing. I am not sure if an animation file is suitable for 3D printing, without making adjustments to ensure the walls are thick enough, and the model is all one piece (manifold), etc. But if it can be done, the possibilities will be endless.

Minmay Project Continues: Can we control Minmay? Making some progress with Adobe built in poses. Still lots to study before successfully printing as a figure. And just because we can...

I'm a long time subscriber of that channel. Hope they do more Macross, and take it up another level.

The hand paint looks great. You nailed it! And no, I never fly my valks around the room, at least not every day.

Lots of greeblies going on! Looking forward to this one! I treat Hasegawa VF-1s like resin kits, lots of puttying and sanding to get the forms I want out of this ancient (yet beautiful) mold. If only it came with M&M in wedding gear!

Something I'm working on and trying to learn new things (Only Macross can induce me to learn tech stuff). As I understand, this was a 3D file ripped from a Macross game. I took it off Thingiverse, learned how to give it a pose in Blender using a skeleton rigging, smoothed the gam polygon edges, and rescaled it to about 1/48. The idea is to get it resin printed for my flight deck diorama. This is all hypothetical, I'm a complete tech dummy, but I will let you know how it goes!

Cool. I was wondering what was gonna happen to the Captains details. I guess you could rescribe or use a pin vice to fix any that don't get saved

Head seems more in scale on the last picture.

Are you all bored of this project yet? Well, I'm not. Up next, a sci fi version of this platform to add to the deck. I'm thinking of lighting under the floor, electronic wall control paneling, and sci-fi shaped barrels, with Misa and Hikaru at the helm. (Will somebody please make Captain Global and Bridge Bunny figures?)

WIP for the laser piano, stage and figure. I scribed the piano panels squares on clear styrene plate, and then laid down an enamel wash to color the lines. The scribing also helped my to mask and cut out squares to paint each color. I paint the black parts of the piano with primer, then metallic steel for light blocking, then gloss black. I painted the colored parts of the piano with a gloss varnish instead of a primer, before airbrush painting the squares. Took me about a week to paint and mask each square! Sanding and multiple layers of primer and acrylic paint ultimately hid the 3D print lines on the figure. Winnup's Minmay sculpt is really nice, but I can't say the same for the quality of Shapeways printing. Stage is made from an unused Millennium Falcon gunner window. 5x flashing LEDs are in the gray box below the piano. Figure paint was too light, needed darkening after testing on stage. Tried to keep the same shades of paint for the whole scene. Lot of mistakes needed repainting. The stage uses a very low RPM motor. Magnet holds the stage's motor in place. Everything is removable in case I need to get inside to fix something in the main project. Hangar door slides open on magnets to reveal valk deck. And of course the inspiration. I guess only Minmay could inspire me to get back at the workbench after a year of Covid and all it entailed. Best wishes to all of you and your families.

WIP for the door. Just some spare styrene and 1/700 battleship greeblies. No, I cannot lay down a decal straight Scratch built rails for the door to slide on. The 35RPM motor was still fast, so I slowed it down with a larger gear.

This is the wiring control pad for both airlock doors and their internal electronics to turn on LEDs and rotate the stage. There is no other wiring required except the DPDT switch to open and close the door. This was the simplest way I could figure out to activate both airlock motors and their internal lighting and internal motors. For example, When Airlock Door 1 opens, Light Switch 1 is hit, which turns on all its internal lighting/motors. Wiring in detail: - There are four wiring rows of pins: 3V+, Ground, Light Switch 1 (L1), and Light Switch 2 (L2). L1 is for the Airlock 1, L2 is for Airlock 2. - Airlock Doors always receive 3V power pin and Ground pin to open and close on demand, which I pulled from the main project deck. - Light Switch 1 is connected to L1 pin and 3V+ pin. Internal lights and motors don't get 3V power, they are connected to L1 pin and Ground pin. So when the Light Switch is hit by the door opening, all internal electronics on the L1 pin row get 3V power and turn on.

Thanks. I do have a little update on the Petite Cola scene. I added more greeblies and internal lighting.