arbit
-
Posts
2615 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by arbit
-
Thanks MT, you are always a great support.
-
Thank you. Obviously I am a big Sharon fan. And given the lack of figures of her, I had to go all out.
-
Thanks. Glad to make you smile, that's the whole point.
-
Thanks Thom. PM me if there is something you MUST have for a project. Thanks. But how did you know "Holy Idol Madness" was my project concept? Thanks my friend. I ended up covering an Idol from each series, but I didn't start with that plan. I just kept going and going. The world's greatest Macross Zero Fan @Xigfrid made Sarah Nome's necklace to complete the project. I was really excited when I realized I could make unique figures I always wanted like Ishtar, Sharon Apple, Sarah Nome, and Captain Minmay. Why would you think I'm up to something? Guess you know me too well What I lack in artistic skill, I make up with the element of surprise. But lets just say I have seven new Macross figures for the Life Boat Platform for my Flight Deck. And my motivation is to make neglected Macross figures. They are really small for a complete beginner painter like me. But I figured if I painted 20 figures, I would learn something by the end. I definitely learned some basics of hand brushing during the process, which you can't get from a tutorial, only from practice. @derex3592 You didn't tell me what you think of the little back dress?
-
Hi guys, So I decided to call this project done! I've shown you what I've been up to, but not EVERYTHING. I saved my favorites as surprises. I got 5 months of grueling work down to a two minute video. Hope you like it.
-
I just finished a new project I have been working on for my Flight Deck's Stage Diorama. Comments and geek outs greatly appreciated. Hope you like it!
-
I've seen that file on Thingiverse. But I didn't think it could come out so impressive. Nice work!
-
@anubis20 Your photography looks like a professional box cover. And I like the subtle shading for the paint. Nicely done!
-
Nice mix of glossy and satin finishes. And the detail painting is outstanding. Beautiful work.
-
Now that's hilarious. But I'll have to get you back...
-
@electric indigo What was your mix for the black, and the highlights? I have a little black dress I need to paint like that.
-
Nice photos. I love me some Syd Mead mecha! Don't you wish we had more?
-
On my workbench, 1/48 DYRL Minmay v2 with 1/60 Xigfrid's bike. I have a mask on the canopy, hope it comes off okay. Below was v1. I got more details to pop out, like the shoulder sleeves, and a more dynamic pose. Even tried some wet blending.
-
@electric indigo Nice work. And great photo! Tell us the background on that figure. And just for you this is "Minmay with Valk", on the Not Guilty shelf
-
Thanks, I've been meaning to try Microset. But Minmay came out good enough for me. Very pleased with her. Definitely, I didn't start this project with mini figures till I found the perfect pair. Yeah, my eye decals do look kinda like cat's eyes. But however they turn out, they are much much better than hand painting multi-colored eyes in a 1mm space. I tried, and failed miserably...
-
I've used From Japan for years. No complaints. Good customer service and follow up. Actually, I do have one complaint, there is too much cool stuff in Japan to spend my money on
-
I really enjoyed seeing this thing built. Very nice colors and details. For a monster, he is a cute little guy! On my workbench are 1/48 Anime Eye Decals. Yechk, what a nightmare. These things are less than 0.4mm in size. First I had the trial and error to print on Hayes White Decal Paper at home on my Ink Jet. Settings must be Glossy Photo Paper, but my POS printer will only print small photos at that setting. I may have lost some quality for rescaling, but I am not sure. Then you need to gloss them several times with an acrylic spray, that means do not use Japanese hobby lacquer sprays, or they will fall apart in water. Then I found that these decals really don't like Mr. Mark Setter and Softer. The only way to apply them without falling apart and color bleeding is with water, and after they are dry, just a jot of setter. I really need to try another brand, because Mr. Mark Setter reacts with everything badly, doesn't work well on Future, fogs it up, and melts these Ink Jet decals in seconds. Seems to work fine with pro decals though... Then I had the challenge of cutting out these little suckers. I found the best way was to gently graze the surface of the decal with a detail hobby knife, while rotating the decal sheet in a circular pattern, but not really moving the hobby knife except to reset. After many disheartening fails, I finally got some decent results. A satin coat will be next for final. I've been trying to paint a mouth line, and some face/jaw shadows, but it is just too small, can't figure it out so far. I'm a proud papa, but any painting advice appreciated...
-
@007-vf1 Awesome display. Lots of great Zentrans and Destroids to spice things up.
-
I wasn't that happy with the first version, so I gave it another shot. And some painting progress.
-
Definitely! I have had my eyes on that for a while. But question: As Art Director, what design software have you become expert for these kind of shows?
-
Nice gift! Hope he likes it and many happy years ahead. So this is what's on my workbench. I've been trying to figure out the easiest way to paint these little figures in an anime style, but still get some depth, without turning them into weathered warhammer figures. After sanding and priming in white, I am basing them in white to get vibrant anime colors. I then preshade with a hand brush using complementary colors. I need the pre-shade to be toned up or down depending on the final base coat. For example, I lost the preshade under the hair because it need to be darker. And I don't want it too strong under lighter shades such as the skin and clothing. Lining everything also really helps with the painting process especially with small details, because I can go up to the lines and not be worried about going over, and it serves as lining as well. Then I just paint the blocked out areas with a normal brush on a wet pallete, and make out the details with cheap 000 fine liners. I try to paint hard to reach areas first and light colors, then dark colors last. Light colors first because I don't need to worry about hitting the edges perfectly. With this approach I can avoid wetblending. The next step could be some edge highlights or lining. But for a small figure, it could be good enough. Any advice to improve appreciated.
-
This WIP is almost done. I was able to airbrush it instead of hand painting, since there are not a lot of details. The 1/48 eye decals look good compared to by hand, but probably still need to be smaller. I lost the split in the dress during processing, which shows her leg down the side, but I since learned how to keep it. So that will be in the version I release one day.
-
Nice scene! That Gnerl canopy always looks hard for me to paint on resin kits.
-
I use the AS-189, never had a problem with it for years. I took it from a pro tip. I leave it pressurized. My room DB is 40-50 depending on AC, the compressor runs at 65-70 when pressure is being filled, but it has an auto off when pressure is maxed. It also has a water filter.
-
Thanks. Unfortunately I screwed up my last print at the printers place. I don't know what we did, but the resolution dropped. Partly my fault, partly the printer kept trying to rescale on site. I did a test print at home which was fine on my inkjet, but at the printers, the margins were all out of wack and the image was squeezed no matter what settings we tried. This goes back to me having the wrong starting canvas size, although @Chronocidal told me exactly what size to use, but I didn't get it right. Now I'm out of Japanese Laser water slide paper. I have some Hayes Inkjet water slides coming, I wonder if those will print well at home for such small objects. The Japanese stuff is .01mm thick, but can't find any info on thickness of Hayes paper.
