the white drew carey

IIRC, landing gears, and the inside of the jet intakes, are always painted white to easily locate oil leaks and other problems.

It shouldn't be that hard... It all depends on how much money you've got. Seriously, I'll take a crack at it, but since I'm pretty busy lately I'm sure someone'll get it done before me.

So this is your chop-job, eh? You think it's pretty damned fun to f*ck with us... don't you!?! Seriously, good job on the photoshopping. The "seam" of the canard on the fuselage is a tad blurry, but it took me awhile to figure it out (with Vostok's help, of course). As to the Heli... I think it is simply a continuation of the Hind design, as is the little scout copter is a nod to the Kiowa scout.

Here's another one we can use:

Yeah, Now that you explained it it became clear as day to me. Also, the "seam" of the canard to the fuselage has been blended or blurred a little too vociferously. I've detailed where the faking below, but either way, it's still a pretty neat pic.

Ummm... JSDF? Japan has a military, but (at least on paper), it's considered solely defensive, even though they pack a lot of offensive weaponry. The F-15 has been in use in Japan for a while now. IIRC, Japanese companies have provided several upgrades that improves the plane's performance which can only be found in the birds they own. BTW- I'm being dumb now: What's ACTIVE?

I think FM4's screenshots look better than FM3. But I see what you're gettiing at. I suspect that FM4 will really shine is in the motion video aspect. It'll be clean and clear with none of the odd pixelation, jumpiness or screwy transparency effects that FM3 suffered.

I like it, but if they're going for a non-transformable interpretation of the what he looks like in robot mode, why the heck did they include the slide-tabs on the arms, or the screws? Silly. Other than that, it looks awesome. But I probably won't buy it. Let me know when they make a Hound statue. He was my favorite.

Magicbox screws up a lot, thats what you get when over half your news is translated with Babelfish. I used to be really into Front Mission, I have that old model kit book they released aroudn the time of the SNES original and some manga tankubon with Front Mission stories in it. Hoping Front Mission 4 will bring back the bigger battles of 1 and 2, 3's battles were too small... though the graphics were really nice. I think 3 gave up size in lieu of graphics. Here's to hoping that the PS2 FM4 has the size of the earlier Front Missions, with (as it looks) the wonderful graphics of 3.

Did anyone else notice that Magic-Box keeps screwing up Wanzer with Warzer? Front Mission rocks. I cannot wait. My wife already knows that when this comes out, I am getting it*. *This is rare, because I'm not usually this fervent about anything. In fact, I haven't been this fervetnt sine Patlabor: WXIII was announced to be released R1.

Link to the Magic-box article. Looks great. I'm really excited! And now for your Hollywood cast of Front Mission 4: Hugh Jackman as Wolverine as Frederick Lancaster Britney (ugh) Spears as Elsa. William Hurt as Zead. Jeff Goldblum (80's Jeff Goldblum, circa The Fly) as Beck. Mary Stuart Masterson as Latona. Crispin Glover as Bosch. Jada Pinkett Smith as Hermes (I'm assuming the character is a girl... I can't really tell!)

Yoooouuuuu smarmy bastard!!!

I agree completely. I was excited to see an announcement for a dealer in the NY area, as I will probably be there over Thanksgiving. But then I thought 1) I don't have any money, and 2) The wife wouldn't much appreciate a detour based solely on toys...

How about a super-secret unloackable mission where you fly a VT-1C and hunt Space Whales?

Tom64ss and Haterist have turned this thread into an argument between eachother. They either need to be warned off the battle or the thread needs to be locked.

I don't mind the stylized poses on the valks, but the Tomahawk looks silly posing like that.

Burn has got a bunch of them on his site, UNSpacy.de, but beware: They aren't the highest quality images around (no offense to Burn at all). If someone does dig up a link for good images, be sure to let me know and I'll edit the links into my first post in the Unofficial Color Scheme thread.

Excellent. Simply wonderful. One suggestion, fool around with using lighter hues when you color. The colors don't have to be terribly bright. I used a medium grey for my "black" section, and when the layers are flattened, the shading is still visible while still looking like the part is painted black.

-Custom Paintschemes and logos. Armored Core can do it, so should Macross. Also, possibly, a less linear storyline. Your success on certain missions will decide on what your next mission might be. If you keep doing especially well, you get assigned an SDP-1 to knock off a capital ship instead of just being sent out with the grunts to blow up Regults.

Ummm... Rae Dawn Chong?

Just for gits and shiggles, I changed the colors of the sample tailfin to the scheme that Hellohikaru has used.

Yeah, I do use my Paypal account for purchasing broads. Thanks for the heads up, Kevin.

Here's a quick run through: Image 1- The tailfin of a VF-11 After creating a new layer "PANEL" and set it for MULTIPLY, I select an open area in the BACKGROUND layer and switch over to the PANEL layer. Once there, I use a paintbrush set at 20 pixels and ran it along the outside of my selected area. Once I'm satisfied, I move back to the BACKGROUND and select a different open area and repeat until I'm satisfied with my panel lines. Image 2- Here I am showing what both layers look like when visible (left), and the PANEL layer by itself (right). Next, I create 3-4 layers, here it is SHADING 1-3, set on MULTIPLY. I now use the POLYGONAL LASSO TOOL to select the whole tailfin at once. Then I set my paintbrush for about 250 pixels and selected SHADING 1. I did a quick pass from NE to SW right under the bottom right corner of the tailfin. I did the same for SHADING 2 and 3, only a little further away each time. Image 3- This is SHADING 1, seen with all other layers invisible. Image 4- SHADING 2. Image 5- and SHADING 3. Image 6- This is all three SHADING layers, and the PANEL layer flattened together, with the BACKGROUND layer still invisible. This is the completed shading for the tailfin, renamed simply SHADE. Image 7- Here is the shading layer, SHADE, and the lineart layer, BACKGROUND, seen together. At this point, I save the image with the two layers as something like VF-4_LINEART_SHADED. This way, I'll have a consistent set of shadows with every subsequent lineart I do. Next a make a new layer, COLOR, which is set on multiply. I lay down the color here, using the MAGIC WAND and the POLYGONAL LASSO tools to select areas I wish to color. Image 8- This is the COLOR layer seen with all other layers invisible. Image 9-After I'm done with everything, I flatten the whole kit-n-kaboodle and blur it. I then save the full-sized version as a .tiff image. If I'm posting it on MW, I resize it to between 600-700 pixels across and then save that version as a .jpg image.

I forgot to mention: Usually, when your all done and you've flattened all of your layers, there will some exremely small gaps between your coloring and the actual line art (mostly only 1 pixel or so across). What I like to do then is throw a blur filter over the whole thing. This is my method of choice for smoothing out the whole image.

Hellohikaru- Good job. It looks like it was colored with Copic Markers or something of the sort. What I do is leave the flow and opacity at 100%, and then I alter the size of the brush. This way, I don't have to bother with the soften tool. One thing to keep in mind is that in almost every case where I'm shading, I actually use the brush tool OUTSIDE of the selected area. By doing so, a small amount of the "flow" carries over into the selected area. If I want more paint inside the selected area, I move the brush closer to it, sometimes even right on the edge. For panels lines I usually have my brush set wuite small (about 35 pixels or so), and run the brush right along, or on, the selection. For larger areas, I make the brush quite big (sometimes upwards of 800 pixels), and keep it well away from the selection.