Stamen0083

You really don't want to know what I think of you at the moment. If the ASS-1 crashed in UC 0078, the Earth Federation would be devastated, and Zeon would most likely end up winning the war. Then they realize that there might be giant aliens, and I come in and crush them all in a black hole for even thinking about such a moronic concept. Aliens and Gundam don't mix. EVER. So the ASS-1 could never crash in the Gundam world. Quod Erat Demonstrandum.

There are no GM Sniper II. That rifle will be an option set, similar to the rifles and heads for the MG Gundam RX-78-2 and Zaku from awhile ago. No crappy extras in my PG Strike box == good toy kit.

Not really. The PG Gundam and Zaku were 12000 yen each. The PG Gundam Mk-II's and Wing Zero Custom were 15000 yen each. Only the PG Zeta and GP01 have been 20000 yen, and the GP01 costs that much only because of the stupid hangar frame and Fb parts.

Eh. I would rather not get that lame Sky Grasper at all. Besides, why would you need beam sabers? The Armor Schneiders are being designed by Hirai. The best beam saber in the world will be a piece of poo compared to those things.

Sorry, David, but you're wrong on every count. Current cannot exceed the item's limit. It's the current (amperage) that'll pump power through the LED's. The voltage merely determines how hard the current is being pumped through. So a superbright white LED, whose pushoff voltage is 3.6V, needs at least 3.6V to light, but it can handle anywhere above that. I've lit LED's at 5V before in my digital lab with no problems. Some have even lit them with 9V. However, the most current it can handle is 10mA. Put more than that through it and that thing will fry. Actually, the reason is reversed. The batteries only put out what the LED's demand. If a component requires several thousand milliamperes, it will put out several thousand milliamperes. A power supply puts out several thousand milliamperes without being asked to. Resistors can reduce both. In a series circuit, resistors lower voltage. In a parallel circuit, resistors lower current. By the way, there seems to be some misconceptions regarding voltage and current. Voltage is the potential between two points. Not potential energy, mind you, just potential. Current is how much charge (how many electrons) is flowing through the wire or component or whatever. Power is how much energy flowing in how much time. A simple way to think of all this is to imagine a waterfall, where voltage is how high the waterfall is, and current is how much water is flowing from the waterfall. Now, an LED needs to fall from a certain height, but too much water flowing with it will drown it. Yeah, you had to use one of a significant wattage to throw away most of the current the power supply is putting out. I'll bet that the total energy your Enterprise B is using is about 10% of what your supply can put out.

The Aile pack is going to be a separate add on, comes later. The Sky Grasper is coming with the Strike. The Aile pack doesn't. And if you've read Gunota, the lineart in the center is for Hirai designed Armor Schneiders.

I know that. But wouldn't that mean a 150mA current source at most should be used?

Right. Use an adapter that puts out 800mA to pump juice through a device that cannot handle more than 10mA. You still need a resistor to limit the current through an LED so that it doesn't burn out.

Not necessarily. Let me do some thinking. Is that diagram you have entirely accurate? It looks to me that if things were wired the way it's presented there, if you turn the switch to off, the LED's in the base that light the modelwould stay on. Check out my previous recommendations, and see what you think. I'll make another post (or, if no one's posted between now and then, I'll edit this post) if I figure out something useful.

So, about my question... Can you get to the individual wires at all?

I can't believe I'm linking to this site, but maybe this will be of help: http://fichtenfoo.home.comcast.net/02GiantRobots/02b-g3.html

That's no worse than "I don't like sand." I rather liked Van Helsing for the vampire women and what's her face. Boobs and those old dresses make such a perfect match.

Hmm... Everything glued shut makes this a little more complicated. Do you at least have access to the individual wires? The point of the resistor is to provide a stable resistance for the electricity to flow through, since each LED's impedance (read: resistance) is not guaranteed to be the same through out. You can use a resistor wired from the power supply to the big wire, but that can only guarantee that the voltage across the LED's are no more than they need, but there's no way to make sure that you'll have a stable current otherwise. You know, I'm looking at my NiMH digital camera batteries, and they supply 2100 mAH, meaning that if a device is using 2100 mA, the single battery would be drained in one hour. If you were to use three AA batteries, you're looking at some 140 hours of illumination with these NiMH batteries. If the problem is with brightness, you can add an extra battery. 3 X 1.2V = 3.6V, which is just barely enough voltage to light the LED's. One more, making it 4.8, would be pretty adequate, and you won't have to mess with power supplies. Sorry to be so long winded, but that's the way I am, I suppose. PS: MORE PICS! The projected light looks incredible. Too bad it has to be a huge hole drilled into the hull that provides that light. I've been looking for ways to project lights on the NX-01, but I've no luck.

Bleh. Forgot to ask. Are you wiring these LED's in parallel or series? Anyways, I've determined that if you wired everything in parallel, you'll need a power supply that can supply at least 150 mA, which shouldn't be too hard to find. Typical supply can throw out more power than that. Anyways, assuming your power supply can put out more than four Volts (anything less and the LED's won't light very well), just take that number, subtract 3.6, which is the turn on voltage of the LED, and then divide by .010, which is 10 mA. The result is the smallest resistor you'll need in that branch. With my calculations, if you were to use a 12V, 150mA power supply, you'll need a 1K resistor for each LED. Am I right, everyone else? My analog is very rusty. I'm much more comfortable with digital systems.

John, What size LED's did you use? What color? Are they super bright or ultra bright? This is the specs sheet I'm looking at. Is it familiar to you? http://www.alltronics.com/download/SE5084J.pdf

Why did I think Halle Berry when I saw that picture?

A plat. Its atomic mass is a little less than two pluts, but that's because the mass has been annihilated and turned into a plitz, which bombards lead and turns it into gold.

Did you know that planes typically take off at about 160 knots? Do you have any idea how fast that is? Do you have any idea how much energy is in something so big moving at that speed? Think about it.

Your loss. Frankly, I think Jen Garner in the red thing is gorgeous. I can think of worse people to play Elektra. A certain Biel comes to mind. What is people's fascination?

It had BETTER not. One of the biggest problem I had with the PG GP01 kit (besides the hideously ugly robot it creates) was the inclusion of the stupid frame, which was toy-like at best, and unnecessarily raised the price by three thousand yen. Unless the PG Strike is priced under 15000 yen, I can't afford to get it. Including all three packs, of which only the Launcher is even remotely interesting, is a dumb notion. I don't want to spend money on throw-away plastic. You obviously have no idea what size F-91 suits really are. SEED suits are similar in height to Wing suits, which are roughly seventeen meters tall. In MG scale, that's a difference of about half an inch between Wing/SEED mechs and a typical UC Gundam. A MG F-91 would be fifteen centimeters tall, a difference of an inch and a quarter.

Oh, look, HG kits of the SEED mechs in phaseshift down colors. Surprised? Hardly.

fart the DeadWeight Gundam. I'm much more interested in the guns on the top of this picture: http://mokei.net/up/img/img20040821164903.jpg That's the GM Sniper 2's rifle in injection plastic. Interesting.

Much thanks to CF-18 for these links he found: HGUC G-Figher: http://www.visualmedia.com.hk/cgi-bin/news...em=131547&utag= MG Ball: http://www.visualmedia.com.hk/cgi-bin/news...em=131539&utag= That Ball is starting to look really awesome. I can't wait to get my pair of Balls. EDIT: And NO, the Ball is not going to be tan. That's just the color of the prototype. Get your heads out of the color molding gutter.

Starfleet Command? Actually, I like Armada 2 myself. Nothing like commanding a fleet of Intrepids.

Or maybe during Vietnam, the US Civil War, or hell... even WWI/II... Next time, on Star Trek: Enterprise...