Stamen0083

Why? What if it was a mechanical malfunction?

Yuck. Those sculpts look horrible.

Curiosity killed the cat. Just look up "Angel Cop". That OAV series was known to be particularly violent.

I think Roy didn't become a womanizer until after Aries' death.

This is better. http://www.naritafamily.com/Scalemodel/air...oto_gallery.htm

Blah. I was hoping for the pilot to have an actual woman's face and not some kid. Not a bad job otherwise, but that kid's face is really distracting.

Will you post scans?

Hrm. Stupid Invision and stupid auto complete.

I was thinking of obtaining it from underground, free sources, just for spite. :-P

Thanks. Always nice to see feedback. The trailer... That was my first scratch build project, ever. I was still really unskilled at the time as far as plastic and putty goes, and it shows. The wheels don't even line up properly, and those pictures were taken with a webcam, for crying out loud. I should take proper pictures with my camera now to show off all the defects. I might end up building another, more refined version, and I'll be sure to document it with plenty of pictures. I could also consider some Macross related item too.

Thanks. :-D Next lesson. Step 0: MAKE A PLAN! The most important thing EVER when you scratch build something is to make a plan. MAKE A PLAN. In case you missed it, MAKE A PLAN. Unfortunately, I misplaced the scan I made for this segment, so you'll have to make your own plans. Moving on, though. The project: A leg modification for a Bandai HGUC Gundam GP01. After getting a satisfactory profile on paper, take a half of the leg to the plastic sheet. Use the side with the female connectors. For the gender challenged, that's the side with the holes, since the pegs would make it difficult to lay the part onto plastic sheet. Lay it flat. Now, use a fine pencil and trace the outline of the part on plastic. Make sure you leave enough room for whatever modification you want to add on. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of this process, but it should be similar to the gear door process described earlier. Here's a refresher: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors00.jpg Actually, I recommend glueing the part down using SUPERGLUE (Important, don't use cement, since that would be permanent. We want to be able to remove this sheet of plastic later. Now, around the outline of the part, redraw the profile of the modification on this plastic sheet that you drew out on paper earlier. Try to get it as accurate as you can, since you'll be using this as a guide to build from now on. If you planned ahead, you would have drilled holes into the plastic sheet where the part's sockets were, so that you can snap the other half on. I use epoxy putty. Specifically, Milliput epoxy. I don't touch the miniature Green Stuff, since it dries rubbery. I don't use MagicSculp, since I don't have any. I don't use any Japanese stuff, since Milliput is readily available for less, and it's been proven to me to work, and work well. Lay some Milliput around your part. Use the plastic sheet part as a guide to how thick a layer of putty to lay down. Lay it to the side to dry. Once it has fully cured, use your X-acto to carve it to a rough shape. This will require a steady hand and some skills. Sorry, if you have clumsy hands, you're in for a rough time. I wish this process could be alleviated somehow, but it can't be. Check it out: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...P01%20leg01.jpg Here are the putty modded parts. Somehow, these came loose when I pried them up: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...P01%20leg02.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...P01%20leg03.jpg Check the kit's left leg: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...7/GP01Fb+01.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...7/GP01Fb+02.jpg Here's another mod I was doing at the same time: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...PGM%20leg01.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...PGM%20leg02.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...PGM%20leg03.jpg After you got it to a rough shape that's as close to what you want as possible, use some sandpaper to smooth it through. I recommend 600 to 800 grit paper, as anything rougher will remove too much material and leave nasty scratches that'll be a total bitch to remove properly. Do what you have to with the sandpaper to get it into the final shape: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...P01Fb+Leg01.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...P01Fb+Leg02.jpg The gray vernier, as well as the hexagon detail part and the wide stripe were carved out very carefully with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn't have a chisel then. Still don't have a chisel now, actually. Hell, I didn't have a digital camera at the time, so my pictures really sucked, and I couldn't take much working shots. There's a little more done on this thing since this picture, but I haven't worked on this kit in ages... I guess I'm just too lazy to finish it off. In anycase, fart G-sys and their 500-dollar Fb+. I'll settle for my 1/144, thank you very much. http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs/030812/Fb+01.jpg PS: Skills can be learned. If at first you don't succeed, try and try again. You get a lot of Milliput, relatively speaking, in the pack you buy.

You don't have to lengthen the heat shield. You have to at least carve the panel line down the center and cut into the chest hump and shorten that to achieve the correct VF-1D look. I have some serious misgivings about using anything other than a Hasegawa piece on a Hasegawa kit. The quality won't be the same, as far as panel lines and details go.

I suppose this is as good a time as any to post some of my VF-0S stuff. Backstory: I misplaced a few of the landing gear doors (which I later found, but too little too late by then), and since I didn't want to think about the ejector pin marks on the damn doors (see here: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs.../VF-Canopy.jpg), I decided to scratch build them all. Did it come out well? You be the judge. Let's start with some templates. I traced the outlines of the doors I have left on some styrene sheets: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors00.jpg Then I cut them out using the flat edge of the X-acto to ensure straight lines. If I were building curved lines, I would cut as closely as I can and get it into the curve with successfully smaller cuts as I can, and then sand to shape. Using some superglue, I can glue the cut shapes onto more sheet plastic, and use that as templates for duplicates. Cut out three more of each, to make a total of four. With two of those, trim the outside by about .75mm on each edge. They will be the details on the inside door edge. You should use thinner plastic for two of them, which will be the details on the inside of the doors. Draw the lines on the detail piece. Using a sharp X-acto, cut out the rectangles inside. This requires some skill and experience, so don't be discouraged if it didn't work for you the first time. Work slowly. http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors01.jpg After you cut the rectangles, place them on the doors to see how they match up. Look good, right? Glue them down. http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors02.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors03.jpg See how they match up to the gear wells. The ones on the right are the original kit pieces: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors04.jpg Now, using a piece of half inch tubing, wrap the doors around it and run it under some hot water. Using successively smaller diameters, try to get the diameter of the new doors to match up with the old doors: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors05.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors06.jpg Since we want these new doors to function more or less like the old ones, let's try to duplicate the static hinge. Take note of the hinges on the kit doors. They're strips with rectangular notches that go into the rectangular holes in the gear well. Cut some plastic strips to the right length, and glue them to the doors at the right place. Cut some rectangle from the same strips, and glue them to the hinge bars at the right place. The front doors don't need the notches, so forget those. http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors11.jpg At this point, you should be done. Keep an eye on the curvature of the doors. The front ones would be tougher to match, but nothing is impossible: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...512/Doors12.jpg See how the new doors line up with the old ones nearly perfectly? Now, modify the gunpod to match the lineart. Step one, get rid of the silly wide bars at the front of the nose, then cut six pieces of plastic to shape, and glue them in. Step two, using Hasegawa's scriber saw, clear out the plastic under the cross bar at the top of the gunpod: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...12/GunPod01.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...12/GunPod02.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...12/GunPod03.jpg Next lesson, shaping and carving complex curved shapes: http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...P01Fb+Leg01.jpg http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~stamen0083/progs...P01Fb+Leg02.jpg

Did you take those parts from some other kit, or did you modify a Hasegawa? I don't know of any Hasegawa Valkyrie kit molded in that color.

He's in the middle of moving, so modelling will have to be put off for a while.

Improvise.

The VF-1S head is too small for the VF-0S. Sculpt another head.

I know nothing about brakes, but the pattern suggest that the calipers slip outwards during braking. That's the only possible reason for swirl patterns.

Oh, poo, that's a great trailer. I've never paid for Star Wars before (never liked the damn thing ), but I'd so pay to see that.

A drop of Tamiya flat paste will turn the Future into a flat coat.

I got the Eduard ZOOM PE set for the Raptor. The cockpit parts are actually pretty cool, and as far as I can tell, accurate. I can't wait to bite into the kit now.

Hopefully, the VF-0D boxart will trump any and all boxarts released so far, including the VF-0A, VF-0B, the Super/Strike Valkyrie, and Ivanov's SV-51.

Screw those. I want a Hasegawa VF-11. I want a Hasegawa VF-11. I want a Hasegawa VF-11. One release from my kit wishlist isn't bad. I wonder if some of the VF-0S deficiencies were fixed in this release.

If you have any of the HGUC 0080 GM, you wouldn't have asked that question.

Congratulations to Mr. MoscAto for a nice sculpting job.