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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. That's being generous/optimistic. My answer is "zero chance, don't waste time writing an email". You might as well ask the FAA to do something about bad food on a North Korean airline...
  2. I thought I saw very finger-looking things in a view of it in Ep 3, will try to find it.
  3. This. My fave "Macross Idol" and she's not even mentioned.
  4. Yay. Remember to watch when combining Tigris and Fortis's blades in blade-staff mode. If it gets tight, don't force it. Separate and sand, and try again.
  5. Thus, why Allosaurus remains my all-time fave. Don't have to worry (much) about them feathering him up.
  6. Raptors? Feh. Deinonychus FTW. Gimme one of THOSE.
  7. Exactly. Somehow they don't seem to know the shape/angle needed (the "chin" is often too pointy for the "right" size to fit) Also----what if you don't want one THERE? Or want one at all? Molded-in spots are generally bad, as both pro- and anti-insignia people have issues with them. Simply leave decently blank/smooth spots, on chest or shoulder. Then it looks good either way----if there's no sticker, there's no obvious "molded spot" that's empty. If you want to use it---you should have a range of sizes/styles that'll work. In short----don't force a sticker location, but also don't prevent me from using one. It's fairly simple to do--just don't put ridges and valleys and dimples EVERYWHERE. Leave a spot or two more plain/flat.
  8. Diesel: Chest, on center silver "block" (need to replace with smaller one, as the indentations lead to peeling "crown points"---gah, if only it was SMOOTH there with no depressions, it'd work so much better---but that's my #1 irk with all 3P figures----lack of smooth areas big enough for an insignia. Cab doors, hollow chrome (so black shows through). Trailer, center of "main sword" section. T-Bone---tiny one bent across middle of chest that keeps peeling up due to acute angle of chest-plate. (see complaints abovee). Center of doors in car mode. Last Chance---center of hood, center of doors. Others: I wanted T-Bone's hood insignia to be off-set like the G1 and CC/Breakdown's, but you have to use a tiny one to do so. So I went with a big one in the middle.
  9. I don't remember Visionaries much----I have much better/fonder memories of the OTHER hologram toy--Super Naturals. (and I dare say they simply had superior holography---they were "deeper" than Visionaries)
  10. I will likely sell my Arcadia -19 if Bandai does a true Isamu YF, or a YF or 19A with neat colors. Then I will be Arcadia-free and almost Yamato-free. Don't know if that's good or bad.
  11. I think most of the Frontier DX's have at least one wing insignia like that. It's harder to tell since they're angled anyways, but I think quite a few are "not quite right".
  12. Canon or not (I think it is for some) I always do "one click" of the GERWALK thigh joint in battroid mode, on every valk.
  13. At this point, I think it should be renamed Kawamori's Kobra, based on how often he features it...
  14. Guess we know what's going to be on the cover of Ace Combat 7 now.
  15. Start keeping an eye out for the super parts. Even at "above MSRP" they shouldn't be *too* expensive, since they're relatively cheap to begin with. Plus there's only the one set---you don't have to worry about finding and paying for Super, Armored, and Tornado parts like with the -25.
  16. Get it. I wasn't much of a -29 fan and bought my Ozma mainly because of the colors and head. But it turned out to be about my fave 1/60 of all. It is simply a "fun" valk to play with.
  17. Exactly. The F-14 has a ground-only wing setting for parking. And the A-5 could only fold its tail fin on the ground.
  18. He has a Diesel-only vid, and an M3 vid. ::edit:: Hmmn, I didn't see him remove the shoulder connectors at all. I'm talking about this situation: Once the combiner shoulders are attached to Diesel's connectors, they like to stay on. And many have stressed, and a few have broken, trying to remove them by yanking/tugging: But if you do like I wrote earlier, they come off EASILY. The only other part to really watch for on Diesel, are the black tabs (drive wheel section) that hold the "wings" onto the back. Just be sure to always peg and un-peg "straight" and not angle them. Protip: the wings are on sliders. Get the angles right first, them move the sliders.
  19. Hmmm, I don't recall him mentioning that but it sounds similar to my method. Let me rewatch his vid. Is it in the Diesel vid or M3's?
  20. It's not the tooling for the airframe, it's the systems. Good luck finding avionics and landing gear.
  21. Remind me to write the easy way to separate M3's shoulder connectors from Diesel. "Twist, yank, and tug until it gives" is NOT the way to do it.
  22. I'd not heard of that, and my first TomyTec kit is on its way from HLJ. Does normal cement just not work, not work well, or what? (because I tend to avoid CA when possible, especially on painted areas) I use it for reinforcing or gap-filling, not "primary method of adhesion". I'm betting (regardless of what the pic/wording implies): You take the front half and wings of the fighter kit. The arms and legs of the battroid kit. And the "exclusive" center-section (backpack+intakes) of the Gerwalk "set". The Gerwalk set's only difference/part, is that center-section piece.
  23. Aircraft guns are bore-sighted to converge(if multi-gunned) and hit at a certain point. I think I heard 1500ft for an F-4.
  24. Needn't be anything so fancy. Concorde had secondary and tertiary intakes, but had "mere" afterburning turbojets.
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