David Hingtgen

Ah, the infamous 99% wrong Hasegawa kit. If anything, I'd think Dragon would do a 1/72 diecast one. (Very unlikely though). Hasegawa and Dragon appear to have some sort of agreement with their military releases. However, Dragon's F-14 isn't out yet, and they don't have a D model. (Though their B model would be WAAAAY more accurate than Hasegawa's kit)

Any chance we could turn this thread back to "wow, it's got 4 friggin huge airbrakes"? ('cuz you know, if it deployed them asymmetrically, it could be VERY effective for manuevering--unheard of in the real world AFAIK, but no reason it couldn't work, not with the incredibly complex computer-controls valks must have))

Original=JP of course. Like my original GC, and original GBA. Man, I should have bought a Skeleton Saturn (as a spare) when VGD had them. Just piles of them sitting there.

The greatest pad ever was the original Saturn's. THAT was a pad. Especially for 2D fighters. Sheer bliss. Think I'll go play Darkstalkers 2 or something now... Druna Skass--every weapon is available for purchase in the Edge Master Missions (or whatever--I play the JP version, I don't know what it's called! ) I presume it's a lot easier in the US version, being able to read the weapon descriptions and all. (The Soul Calibur versions of all weapons are of course the most expensive, makes it easier--though there's 2 and sometimes 3 versions though)

Super Ostrich----there's a limitless supply of decals for real planes, 99% of which are the same as VF's use. Also--while I suck at painting, I *rock* at decaling. Ask away if you need anything. (I decal so well, you can see and feel the orange peel and brushstrokes in the paint it's laying on)

It's WAY too thick to be airbrush ready. It's far, far thicker than stuff I KNOW to be airbrush-ready. (It's as thick, if not thicker, than most MM Enamels---close to Gunship Grey I'd say, but not as thick as Insignia Blue) Testors.com says 3:1 paint/thinner for airbrushing for that specific paint, but I think more like 2:1. I plan to experiment some more with sprayers, airbrushes, etc. (Having taken a good long look at just how much surface area a 1/350 battleship has) If anybody is really curious, just head on down to your local hobby shop, and open up some jars from Testor's MM acryl *marine* line. Specifically 5L Light Grey (1943). (The 1941 version is a very different color)

Yeah, well let me know when it can get through 17.5 inch class A armor. (That's the Iowa's heaviest armor). 26 inches of armor is about the limit for modern artillery penetration. (Mark 7 gun cannot penetrate 26 inch Vickers B armor, IIRC--really close, but not quite)

Was it an artist's circle mask? (A lot of circles in every size cut out of a template?) You put the wheel so that the hub is in the circle, and the template masks everything else. Then spray. (For this technique, you do the black first, then the hub)

There's not much need. Airbrakes are VERY strong. Ever put your hand out the window of a moving car? Now imagine you've got a 30 sqft surface, at Mach 1.5. SERIOUS resistance. F-15 has the biggest airbrake I know of, F-14's are quite small. F-18's is quite large, and can stick WAY out. F-16 has 4, but it's more like 2 sets that each split in half--usually counted as just 2. Rather small, but can open quite wide. F-4's are under the wings, Tornados on either side of the rear upper fuselage. F-8 under the belly, F-5's I can't remember (Either under the wings or on the fuselage sides) Airliners have multi-purpose spoilers, which can do most anything--roll, brake, descend, etc. Always on top of the wings, right ahead of the flaps. Usually called "speed brakes" when used to slow down, "spoilers" for roll--even though it's the EXACT same part. I've never known an airbrake to cause structural problems, the biggest problem is severe buffetting when deployed. F-15 had a BIG problem with this, and led to 1 modification, and later a complete redesign of the airbrake. (Through it all, the F-15ACTIVE kept the original design).

I don't buff very often (I usually use the buffing version, but then don't buff it--still looks better than the non-buffing version). Anyways, either use kleenex or an old sock (probably kleenex). You want smooth, soft objects. I've found that you shouldn't wait long to buff---90% of the time, it'd be dry before I got a chance to buff it. (It'll still leave flecks on your fingers for days, but won't buff) If you've got a Dremel, etc, use a rag-wheel. I've seen amazing results come from using that on a buffing finish. (Power buff! )

What's the final paint scheme going to be? And it seems EVERYBODY's doing a Yukikaze model but me...

General rule for TF's: the guy taking the pics for the box, and the guy writing the instructions, have never talked to the guy who designed it. Thus, lots of errors, in instructions, pics, catalogs, boxes, and ads. Still, I really want a Smokescreen in a non-rally scheme, normal scheme. All-silver would be VERY nice.

Ooooooh. I forget how you're going to paint it. Bare metal? Also--got any pics for a sense of size? A 1/48 Firefox must be HUGE. Finally--don't forget to capitalize the G in MiG. Man, everybody's doing model planes lately but me. (1/350 USS Iowa---and there's 157 gun barrels in 84 mounts on the Iowa, for I have sanded each and every one of them)

I can help with real-world missiles! (For the US/Nato at least) Ok, basic color is 36375 Light Ghost Grey. Nose cones are either white or 36375. Fins are either 36375 or bare steel. (You will see HARM missiles still in pure white though) As for stripes: Blue stripes indicate a dummy missile. ALL the stripes will be blue (nose and body). Stripes are in two locations generally--one up front for the warhead, one or two behind for the motor. There are no black stripes, they are brown. A live missile (what you probably want) will have a yellow stripe upfront indicating a live warhead, and a brown stripe at the rear to indicate a live rocket motor. PS--the alternating flat/gloss is EXACTLY the technique used for the original ST Movie Enterprise. It wasn't painted multiple shades of white--it was PURE white, the only difference was different flat/glossy patterns. For ST 2/3/4 etc it was painted differently, but the best-looking one was the first movie, and the effect was purely different levels of shine. Here's perfect example of an AMRAAM---35375 grey overall, bare steel fins, white nose, front stripe yellow, rear stripes brown. AMRAAM's on an F-16: http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/missile...aam-990493c.jpg AMRAAM's plus a HARM on an F-16: http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/missile...20-untitled.jpg

Heh heh. If any of you read Penny Arcade, you should be familiar with Video Game Depot. They're only 20 mins away from me. I get EVERYTHING from there. www.videogamedepot.com (And they sell Pocky, too)

Toys and models often use tampo pads as well, another way they're different. Anyways, the best tape (for general masking) is Scotch Magic tape (green package). It doesn't stick nearly as much as most tapes. For VERY low-stick tape, look for Scotch Removable tape (blue package). But it's so low stick it won't go around corners or edges at all without lifting--but I guarantee it won't peel up paint! For detail masking, I usually use Pactra tape, but many like Tamiya's.

Paint chips/flakes off of diecast parts with very little effort. It's why the 2nd version of the YF-19 and VF-19 have more plastic parts than the original. The original had horrific paint chipping problems, and anywhere where metal-to-plastic joints occurs usually leads to problems. (plastic-to-plastic parts--they'll each "give" a little---with metal, the plastic will just break if there's a slightly imperfect clearance). The only paint flaws/chips on my valks occur on the diecast parts, 'nuff said. Sure, diecast may be heavier/stronger, but that just leads to paint chipping, and problems where plastic parts attach. (If you want to see some SERIOUS flame-wars about plastic vs diecast, go check out some model airplane forums)

Yeah, but Tamiya absolutely doesn't make anything remotely close to 1943 5L grey, nor 5N blue, nor Revised 20B blue. (Well, they do make modern 5N blue in a spray, but not a bottle--and it's not quite the 1940's version) I'd have to do white+black+ultramarine blue+purple and custom mix them all. When you start mixing color after color, you start to get browns, unless you've got pure pigments. (Yellow+blue doesn't make green, when dealing with paint--no pigment is PURE) Tamiya doesn't make a pure ultramarine blue do they? I do have the formulas for the actual colors, it's just that Norfolk Navy Yard tends not to have WWII-era stocks of paint, nor sell to civilians in small quantities... As for MM marine--while they say on the bottle they can be airbrushed, they do need to be thinned (3:1 p/t) according to the site, and that does seem correct. And they brush better (as flats go) than just about anything I've used. (Tamiya is superior though). (Humbrol's the best for gloss) But the whole reason for using Testor MM acryl is the colors. It's not like I'm doing 36375 Light Ghost Grey, which every paint manufacturer in the world makes, I'm doing WWII US Navy camo colors. (If there was any color even rremotely close to 1943 5L grey from any manufacturer, I'd use it in an instant, just to make life easier--but there's not) My current theory is along the lines Omega20 said--multiple very thin coats over light grey. But 5L grey is VERY light, and very blue, and even camouflage grey is darker and browner than it, and isn't that much better than plain old grey primer. Might have to buy a bunch of Tamiya this week and see how well it works, if I can mix up the right colors.

Then I shall save $50 by keeping my JP GC version, and use the money for F-Zero X.

Ok, going to rephrase/specify: Assassin/Berserker/Lizardman were in the JP version, but not playable. In the US, they're playable. Yes, Assassin is obviously supposed to be Hwang. But is there *Hwang* playable in the game? As in looks like Hwang and everything. Not Hwang wearing a mask pretending to be someone else. Simply, plain, Hwang. Nigh-identical to the DC Soul Calibur version.

No, Hwang wasn't in the arcade version, nor the JP release. There's "The guy who looks and fights like Hwang" but he's not Hwang. And Sophitia is an easily unlockable character. (I KNOW she's there, I've played as her--she's got probably the best 3rd outfit of all, as opposed to Seung Mina, who has the all-time worst 3rd outfit of all time)

Dang. 4 airbrakes that big, with that degree of extension---should be able to out-brake anything but a Harrier or a valk putting its legs forward.

Here, a P-51C (one of only 2 in the world that can still fly) and an A-10. PS--Apollo Leader--for the in-the-air shots, did you use a camera or did you you snag them from a camcorder? I've tried both methods, but results vary.

Yeah, the exhaust is the REALLY nifty part of the 117, but the grill is still more than a simple grill--the size of the apertures has to be the right size to not reflect radar (I think it's one-way--lets them (radar waves) in but not out) yet not affect flow to the engines. Barpharanges----they're not Cessnas, they're WWII fighters. 400mph is no problem for them. And they don't go anywhere near that for the slow "Heritage Flights". PS---it'll ALWAYS be SAC headquarters to me. PPS--an F-15 will outmanuever an F-16 at high altitude and high speed. (big wings help a LOT when the air's thin, as does two engines)

Can someone confirm for me that Hwang's in the US version? I have the JP GC version, but Hwang's my fave character, so it'd be worth it to buy a US one. It was said he was in it long ago, but no one's talked about him quite a while. (All any site ever says is Spawn/Link/Heihachi). PS--opinions accepted on any version, I have every system.