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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. Wow, I didn't think anyone would actually have a spare---if anyone has one actually from the Interceptor, that'd be preferred to 100% guarantee fit. TIE Fighter would be second choice.
  2. But it's TOON-ACCURATE (even if it's only for 2 frames and an animation-error) so that mean's it's the BEST EVUR for a lot of fans... Some day they'll make a Starscream where the canopy framing is painted orange, like the canopy glass itself, and it'll be "the most screen-accurate one yet!" and it'll sell zillions, to replace the slightly-less-error-accurate ones...
  3. Anyone have Sandrock Supernova? I'm very tempted. A. It's Sandrock. B. It's purple.
  4. Thanks, I'll watch for that. Also, please don't take this the wrong way---but your pics make me certain that opening up the chest and re-doing the main green chest crystal was the right thing to do. Just way too dark as-is. PS to everybody---anyone have experience/tips for panel-lining the "hi-gloss" plastic? I don't want to clear-coat it at all, that'd kinda ruin the point. Will wash-type stuff "run too much"? I'd like a quite subtle look.
  5. Any chance anyone built a TIE without the glass, and has a spare clear canopy? (I think the Fighter and Interceptor parts are identical---maybe Vader's too?)
  6. The show is not valk-accurate. (The A's remodel from the J/F/S etc were done about as quick and cheap as possible---see the missing outer hardpoints, etc). The master file is very much how they "really" are/should be, vs a quick repaint for 60 secs of screen time.
  7. Got mine today---and I think I'd rather have a VF-31A instead, for the money. So looking to sell mine, never taken out of the plastic.
  8. I noticed it, I just wanted to help you know how to do it in the future, vs "randomly trying different things hoping it'll work again".
  9. The latest version of the board is both "simple, but un-intuitive"----basically for most all pics and vids, you just paste the normal link, and it'll figure out what you intend, and embed it automatically. There's not really many "do this" buttons to click on etc. Usually works well. When it doesn't---then you're on your own.
  10. Imagine if they'd ever actually used the -30/31's primary design feature--a swappable weapons pod...
  11. Mine's made it to NY--so it's at least in the right country now.
  12. I saw those--while I generally prefer decals, for this I really think I'd prefer a sticker---also, the color seems awfully "green"---don't know what they really look like. The VE-1 sticker sheet seems to match the grey that the Milia already has, perfectly. (since it's likely Yamacadia only has 1 "VF-1 low-vis light grey" color they use for markings)
  13. Well, I really want "the perfect size for the FAST pack boosters" (and preferably the nose as well) so it'd pretty much have to be from a V.2 VF-1. :;edit: The VF-4 sheet also has the exact style I want (light grey, with white kite) but I have no idea how the size compares.
  14. I would still like low-vis grey kites to match the many other grey markings----did any sheet other than the VE-1 come with then?
  15. HLJ tends to give shrink wrap OR air-bags, not both in my experience.
  16. I'm a little worried too now, about that....
  17. SAL? How much? I don't think that was even an option given for mine.
  18. That fact did stand out/bug me...
  19. Thanks much for posting them here----those pics are encouraging---the white looks quite white, and not pink. (At least on my phone). Does anyone make low-vis markings in 1/60 nowadays? All I really need are UN Spacy symbols in grey/white. :edit: Hmmm, looks like the VE-1 sheet has exactly what I need...
  20. It's kind of the opposite---this is a non-canon Autobot variant/pun of the official character Tarn, who has a 'con logo for a face. (As described in other posts).
  21. So nobody in Japan has actually opened it and blogged pics yet?
  22. I love the 3000, it's the bigger/better, more badass, "perfected" version of the VF-1.
  23. Got my HiRM Wing Zero---so far just checking the inner-frame----no wrong parts, no frozen joints (so far!). But----the thumbs are the loosest I've ever had on any toy/figure ever. They pop out if you look at them funny. Trying nail polish, hope that's enough. Noticed stress marks at base of the "socket" on both---something somewhere is spreading the "upper hand" apart, causing the super-loose thumbs.
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