David Hingtgen

Ultimate remold: MP Prime into a full Ultra Magnus. It'd be one heck of a big trailer, but it'd be cool. Or just sell the trailer as an add-on for those who bought the Ultra Magnus MP repaint. Anyways, repaint/remold possibilities: Bluestreak/Smokescreen. But we already have that in Alternators basically. Ironhide/Ratchet. But nobody wants a van. Inferno/Grapple. Now THAT would be cool. Big red firetrucks always sell, and cranes are neat. The main problem is most of these guys aren't hugely important characters. Unless there were like 4 repaints to sell it's not worth developing the mold for minor characters. And the vast majority of Autobots already have a "similar" Alternator out there now. MP Hound and MP Tracks are NOT going to sell when we all have those Alternators. Alternators has already taken up a lot of the demand/desire for high-end car TF's. The MP line has to do either jets/tanks to have something different, or be such well-liked characters people would buy them regardless of what Alternators are out there. I personally would love a MP Sideswipe. He might be popular enough to warrant a mold, though I doubt it. (I never liked the idea of him as a Viper). And he can't be remolded into MP Sustreaker. Finally--MP Grimlock would sell, but not likely the other Dinobots. Devastator is by far the most popular gestalt, but it'd be insanely expensive and complex to do---his toy didn't combine so much as you made a skeleton of purple parts and attached Constructions to it. Getting that transformation to actually WORK is almost impossible. Menasor is the most "possible" one, since the limbs are basically just car mode with fists. Though the biggest issue has always been that Motormaster is grey yet Menasor's body is black... Though I always figure you can just have a lot of revolving/flipping panels from the trailer to make a lot of black appear. Eliminating the "weapon base" mode from Motormaster would make it a lot easier. I was thinking more like instead of 5 or 6 MP-sized TF's to make an MP Gestalt, have the final form be MP sized. For most of them, that'd still make them far larger and more detailed than before. I mean, RiD Prime towers over almost all of them. The G1 gestalts are not really that big---many small TF's combined is only a medium/large TF, not Fort Max.

If it's a fake, it's one heck of a detailed F-15 schematic that is specifically a G1 seeker. The engine nozzles alone would take hours to draw. You wouldn't spend that kind of time to correctly do the 400 visible parts in a featherless F-15 exhaust, in a tiny part of the corner of a pic. Basically: 1. There is no detailed F-15 drawing out there that is a G1 seeker. 2. That drawing is incredibly detailed and accurate, and if it was a fake it would have taken many hours of research and work--and that guy should be immediately hired by an aviation magazine to do their artwork for them.

But most modern instability is SLIGHT. In the F-16, it's a matter of moving the wings 8 inches. They designed an alternate wing mounting location as a backup in case they couldn't get the FBW to work right and needed to make the plane stable. Wings in the forward mount=unstable, wings in the aft mount=stable. Or conversely, it's the matter of a few hundred pounds. Want a stable F-16? Fill the nosecone with lead. Or find a really fat pilot. However, blowing off a YF-19's arms is going to affect the balance far more than any modern plane can likely deal with. That's probably thousands of pounds. (of course, the official weights for valks have always been impossibly low, so we presume they use advanced materials that are super lightweight--so maybe the arms only weigh a few hundred pounds)

My main beef with MP Prime has always been truck mode. Everything was sacrificed to make MP Prime's robot mode the most Gundam-esque, beefiest mech they could. Honestly the G1 toy has a much more accurate/realistic truck mode. (For me, TF's are all about vehicle mode, and I dislike "fake" vehicles strongly) That and the grey gun with baby-blue accents. But---Starscream I have high hopes for, because there's F-15's in Japan, and the JASDF has always seemed to be very cooperative to any company that wants to research/reference their F-15's for some reason. So I wouldn't be surprised if right now there's some Takara engineers on base measuring an photographing an F-15J to make Starscream molds. PS---I'll wait for the Thundercracker repaint. PPS---you know, it shouldn't be that hard to do Dirge/Thrust/Ramjet too. All depends on if they can get the conehead transformation to work. (Since an "accurate" Starscream should have the nosecone completely fold into his spine, not point backwards from his skull) PPPS--I will be ordering the JP version, as the US version will have either the nosecone, missiles, or fin tips shortened/rubberized etc. I want sharp metal points on mine!

If it was in any other movie, that alone wouldn't be an homage. But in a movie about ROBOTS THAT TRANSFORM INTO PLANES, I say it's an homage.

Just a side note, my dad had a '69 Charger, it's in my parent's wedding photos. Metallic blue paint, blue interior, black top, black bumblebee stripes, and mag wheels of course.

I have seen overspray travel across an entire room (I have several things with itty-bitty blue specks over them now)---that is why I mask off ALL of a plane when spraying. Use plastic bags---grocery sacks, even garbage bags if it's a BIG model.

That the Revell Germany kit? PS--don't worry, none of the kits in my current stash will be finished this decade most likely.

DS Lite has the GB Micro's D-pad, which though small, is supposed to be the best D-pad in a generation. (Not surprising, Nintendo has the cross-shaped D-pad patent, which is why all others are "circles with a cross on top" or "4 triangles close together" ) The GC actually has a decent D-pad, just placed so horribly you can't use it. Honestly my fave part of the GC controller is the C-stick. It's so "nubby" and rubbery. Awesome grip. Now if they only used that material on D-pads...

JB0---about PS2 analog button sensitivity. I went from a launch PS2 to a Slim PS2 and couldn't STAND the newer-production PS2 pad. Buttons just suck compared to the original, and it feels cheaper/flimsy overall. I searched all around until I found a Toys R Us that still had original PS2 controllers, and bought one. It's worth hunting for. Check Toys R Us, or maybe Kaybee or K-Mart, or any other store that keeps ancient stock. The key thing to look for is (asides from a layer of dust on the package) is for it to NOT say what color the controller is. The newer ones say black (or charcoal or graphite or whatever they call it) because there are different colors. The early ones (which are slightly heavier, but so much more responsive and better feeling) don't say anything about color on the package because they're so old there was no alternate color. Also, if you look at the back the packaging is slightly different. If not for the PS3 coming within a year I'd probably have bought yet another spare, launch-day PS2 pad by now.

I too have heard good things about the Logitech, but I'll probably just wait for their version of the PS3 pad at this point. Gamecube: as uncomfortable as the DC and Xbox S. There's a big difference between "controllability" and "comfort". Saturn and PS2 are the most comfortable. For me, the DC and GC are the worst. My middle fingers always end up pressed against the edges of the shoulder button housings. Xbox S better but not a lot. The PS2 is way better in that regard in that my middle fingers are UNDER the shoulder housings, not behind (XB s) or between (GC, DC). Saturn was the best, it didn't HAVE shoulder button housings. Just a mound where the cord attached PS--I HATE VIBRATION. With a passion. Also, I hate heavy controllers. If I could, I *so* would buy a new PS2 or XB controller that couldn't vibrate, because that'd save a lot of weight. I'd remove the motors from my current controllers if I knew it wouldn't mess up the games (constantly searching for input or a signal to them or something). How's the WEIGHT on the Logitech PS2? If it's anywhere near a PSX DualShock it's way too heavy.

Best pad ever: Early US version of the Saturn's. I compare all others to it. Strange how sucky the DC's is, especially compared to the NiGHTS controller, which it evolved from. A key feature of the Saturn pad is the shoulder buttons are not really separate buttons--they are simply the edge of the controller. Kind of like how an SNES's wrapped around the edge, you could hit them at many angles. But even better. Now, I like the Dual Shock 2 more than most, but I simply am not COMFORTABLE using all 4 shoulder buttons. L1/R1 are the primary ones, and I'm not too fond of ever using L2/R2 for anything frequent/precise. So yes they work for rudders, but not much else. I sure wouldn't ever want them linked to jump or shoot or anything else that requires dexterity/timing. If you ever see me online (AC6 hopefully), it's clear I favor certain throttle/rudder combinations, due to shoulder button layout. Note to self: Find a 360 by June. The problem with 6 buttons is alignment. While the Saturn's rocks, you don't want to play MegaMan X4 on it, because special weapon and dash are not equidistant from jump, and buster shot is WAY out there. No way around it. Now, the real purpose and specialty of the Saturn is Capcom and SNK 2D fighters, so 6-buttons rock at that. You've gotta have "2 rows of 3" for fighting games, but I can't help but think either a pentagon (with the 6th button in the middle) or a hexagon might be superior to the 4-button diamond. Button combos: 4-button diamond can do square+X very easily and instantly, but then again, triangle+X or square+circle are impossible without moving your entire hand just to hit them. 6 buttons in 2 rows can do many combos easily: A+B A+X B+C B+Y C+Z X+Y Y+Z But in summary---there's still no perfect button layout. 4 shoulder buttons are uncomfortable and awkward, and 6-button layouts often have problems with how many games have 4 primary functions---6 buttons are good for tapping in sequence, but it's impossible to your thumb in the middle and have easy, rapid access to all 6---you'll always favor a group of 3 in triangle formation. (At least that's what happens on a Saturn pad playing action games) I think 4+4 would work best if L2/R2 could be redesigned. Honestly I'd like them smaller, and maybe angled back more. Or maybe move them out or in. Anywhere but "right behind L1/R1". PS---I rarely have issues with pause, it's select that's the problem. Put start and select by each other, say right above and below the current pause location on the PS2. Kudos to anyone who actually reads all that.

I like this pic better, it's way closer, you can tell the individual markings: http://www.navy.mil/management/photodb/pho...N-1331S-167.jpg The upper-left 4 are the showbirds. Upper left is VF-31 CAG, upper right is VF-213 CAG, lower left is VF-213 CO, and lower right is VF-31 CO. Overall, VF-31's planes are leading VF-213.

The new 1/32 jets just rock, having one of them is far better than having a bunch of 1/72 or 1/48 ones. You get a big smile just opening and seeing all that plastic, and the 40 page manual. And the screwdriver included. It's one of those things that just having it is as good as actually using/building. If there's ever a new 1/32 F-14, Skull Leader and I are financially doomed. 1/24 is becoming more popular for props, but almost unheard of for jets---only 1/24 jet I know is the Airfix Sea Harrier, and that's partly because the Harrier is tiny. Still waiting for a 1/32 F-8, that is IMHO the most likely for the next 1/32 jet. (What with the new 1/48 and 1/72 of it, and the new 1/32 A-7)

No more space in the stash for new kits. No more room on the shelves for the half-done kits I'm working on. (That F-15E's been 70% done for a half-year now, it currently sits on the floor next to my stereo--some day I'll feel like doing the engines, gear, weapons, and canopy) No more room under the bed or couch for the "reserve" stash. So what do I do? Buy the biggest new model I can! It's the American way. (VF-1 for scale)

Tamiya flat can flatten almost anything, but I'd try Testor's acryl stuff first--I've read a few issues about mixing Tamiya and Future directly. I've disliked every "not normal model cement" I've ever tried for a canopy. They all seem to dissolve readily in water. Not good when trying to decal pilot's names by the canopy! I've had more than one "glued" canopy come off during decaling. I just use normal glue, very carefully and in small amounts.

Future can, and is, used for everything. The following procedure is not at all uncommon: Primer. Color. Future to smooth surface for decals. Cut decal from sheet, DUNK DECAL IN FUTURE USING FUTURE AS A WATER AND DECAL SET SUBSTITUTE, apply. Future to seal decals. Weather. Future to seal weathering. Flattened Future for final finish. I have yet to use Future instead of Micro-Set etc, but plenty of people like it and say it prevents silvering better than anything else.

I still have to get Kingdom Come. Side note: One of the best things about Barnes & Noble is their large selection of TPB/Graphic Novels. And they often have their own edition of popular ones, which are very cheap.

According to Magic Box, VP Lenneth and VP Silmeria have been registered as trademarks by SQ-Enix in the US. That's basically confirmation of US releases.

Well this is interesting: http://www.aviationnow.com/avnow/news/chan...ws/030606p1.xml The parts for the 3rd XB-70 Valkyrie were assembled and converted as a launch platform for satellites?

True, but the default/standard/demo colors from Lambo are the lime and pumpkin. They are the majority of colors sent to dealers, etc. THAT is strange.

Basically: The key difference between the J and the E was that the J had all the changes made to the E(FN). The E(FN) is the French Crusader. It has double-hinged leading edge flaps, larger stabs, and blown flaps to reduce its approach speed. This was needed for France's smaller carriers. (And the F-8 was never an easy plane to land on a carrier). However, all those changes added weight, and the blown flaps sucked power and response time straight from the engine when it was most needed. So it actually handled worse, even if it did come in slower. The US Navy later made some adjustments and added more powerful engines, but it pretty much cancelled out all the approach improvements---so like often happens, they spent a lot of time and money just to get the J back to how it was like before it was converted! The F-8H was the upgraded D. The D is THE fastest and best-performing of the original Crusaders, period. No others come close. Now, the later H's got even more powerful engines than most J's and didn't have the weight or drag of E/J. I think the H might even be able to outrun the D (same airframe plus more power=faster), but I've never read anything about its performance. Basically: The H is the upgraded version of the best-performing Crusader (the D), while the J is the heavier, less responsive version of the E. The J may be more technologically advanced and "survivable", but not better or "more fun" for a pilot. Think about the standard F-15E---sure it's a far more advanced, multirole, more useful plane compared to the F-15C, but for sheer agility and speed the F-15C will beat it, even if the E is stripped down. I think most pilots would rather fly around in a C than an E. A note he had at the end said that the last F-8 squadron utterly refused to take freshly-converted J's, and wanted the older H's retired from a previous squadron.

I'd just plain vote for the F-8. Why? Its model designator is F, not A. Plus it has an afterburner. And most important of all, it looks way cooler. F vs A explanation: while many an "F" plane has become a great attacker (or only really is an attacker) I have yet to hear of an "A" plane doing well in air combat. PS---I was just posting with an F-8 pilot in another forum and he said the F-8H was hands-down the best version, especially compared to the J. Quote: "J for junk, H for hotrod".

That powder-blue Gallardo is in Road and Track. I swear everyone at Lambo went color blind over the past few years. Metallic lime green. Pearl burnt orange. Now pastel blue. What happened to basic sports car colors? Diablos had so many neat shades of blue---both metallic and non. And titanium, and anthracite grey, and other cool colors. But the current ones seem only to be available in colors that don't look good on the cars. There's like one shade of blue that's decent, but it's almost the same as GM Superior Blue.

Isn't there a joke about the percentage of new Lambos owned by rappers? I don't actually recall seeing anybody else own one... I'll admit I've always wondered what a chrome sports car would look like. I like the overall look, but it's just TOO shiny. I think "super-smooth" (as in fine-grained) silver would look nice. Just so long as it's not actually reflective like a mirror. Most silver paint is just so grainy, like glitter. This is an issue for models, as normal silver paint on a model can often look like you literally coated it in glitter. It's all about how finely ground the metal flakes are.