David Hingtgen

Pixy and PJ are still better by themselves than Edge, Chopper, Swordsman, and Archer combined.... Pixy has 1/10 my kills in some categories, as opposed to Edge (the best of Razgriz) who has like 1.5% of my kills.

In the end, Britain had(has) the best Tornado variants. Only the UK and Saudi Arabia even had the ADF version, and the IDS Gr.4 far surpasses the "almost how they were delivered" versions everyone else has.

Dobber--I don't see anything new in those threads from what was known a few weeks ago. We're looking for the new "airbrake and radar" pics Renato mentioned.

That was my point/question---if it was going to be for a Valk, coolant would likely be inappropriate. Also AFAIK, green-dyed coolant is only used in the smallest of piston powered planes, and non-military. You're much more likely to find it left clear or colored pink in larger props and military planes, I think.

Before I see the pics: I still say that's "swappable nozzles", not engine detail, based on previous pics... Anyone who knows F-15's knows the difference between feathered and unfeathered nozzles, and I think MP SS has feathered for robot mode and unfeathered for jet mode.

I still vote Rafale. The new carrier is being designed for both the UK and France, and so it will be designed with Rafale capability in mind. It's actually the UK version that's not finalized, as they don't know what plane to design it for! But with Rafale capability being inherent to the design...

Mine (and I think Skull Leader's) #1 site is down at the moment, no point posting a link that's dead at the moment. That site will beat any other site for accurate up-to-the-minute F-22 info, trust us. I will say F-16.net is about the best site period dedicated to a plane. F-15StrikeEagle.net and any F-14 site have nothing on the Viper's page. Strange that there's no Hornet page out there AFAIK.

How does Robotech even count? Shouldn't each third be considered separately? ;P Seriously--how are they counting Minmay's songs? Do they mean Macross songs? Because there's no way they thought Reba West is the "standard all future anime should be measured against".

Never stopped Takara/Hasbro, they paint and tampo print along opening transformation seams all the time. Anyways---HUD printing? I'd love to see that.

Any chance of a kite-only set? (both regular and low-vis, sizes for nose/wing/FP) With solid white background circles for applying over tampo-printed markings? I'd like to re-logo several valks, but don't want to buy a $20 complete valk+FP set for just new kites. And I think every set could use the pure white circle kite backgrounds. Just make them about 1mm smaller than the kites--because the kite's black border will cover over everything regardless. Then you wouldn't have to worry about getting the kite EXACTLY over the white background. PS---I have US Air Force and Navy/Marines painting manuals, and can tell you exactly what shades of grey 'should' be used on various background colors---if you want to try to get "real" low-vis colors.

Saw it, will pick it up soon, but not immediately. I still don't have a DS. It'll be either the first or second game I play once I get my DS Lite.

A little late here but--- Coolant for what? What type of plane?

Yamato just plain can't mold/paint stuff accurately enough. They're way behind the current standard for model planes, diecast or not. Plus I doubt they'd do any better. Dragon's stuff is getting worse and worse, and Corgi still can't tell a naval Phantom from a land-based one.

"Overweight being fixed". For every pound they drop off, I hear of another pound needing to be added on. I have yet to see an actual weight decrease. It's more like: "Plus 1000, minus 800, plus 700, minus 500, plus 50, minus 30..." Of course, IMHO it's all for naught if it's the next budget target after the F-22 and production is drastically cut. Instead of replacing the Viper/Hornet/Warthog it'll replace Hill, Mountain Home, and Shaw's planes, and that's about it...

If it's metallic, I use Testors Metalizer Sealer. One of the few clears that won't totally kill a metallic's shine (since its designed NOT to)

Fast jet damage? SAM. F-18's took SAM's in the Gulf War and came home. Every Harrier hit with a SAM went down. And there's always AAA. Mach 2 capability didn't help any of the Strike Eagles or Tornados lost since they couldn't use it. Attack aircraft are still forced to fly low and slow a lot of the time. I've yet to hear of somebody dropping a JDAM from Mach 2 and 40,000ft. (And I know you simply can't go very fast with a Paveway due to seeker issues) Damage survivability of any kind, and especially when low and slow is still worth something.

Due to how the 1/48 foot is assembled, I planned to take it apart to avoid having paint get anywhere it'd be a problem. If I leave it whole, and spray the whole thing, paint gets everywhere. If I take it apart, I can leave out all the "mechanism" parts and not paint them at all, as the hinge is quite separate from the main part of the foot.

I must just have weird preferences. I hate the effect Rain-X, wax, silicone, etc have on a windshield. Beading=bad IMHO. Just give me "natural clean glass".

I know I can reset it to 0 votes for everything with Mod-Powerâ„¢ but I'm not 100% sure it would allow people to re-vote. Should we risk it anyways, since the poll is fairly irrelevant now?

Both of which (F-15 and 16) also weren't supposed to ever bomb. LANTIRN--making night-strikers out of day fighters since the mid-80's.

But doesn't that require/assume you've got a nicely polished/waxed finish beneath it to start? A clay bar will take paint spots off of a waxed surface because the wax prevented the paint from adhering well to start with. AFAIK. A winshield won't have that. (unless you went to a touchless car wash and got the wax option, which usually puts it EVERYWHERE--few things worse than a waxed windshield IMHO) I do need to clay my car some day, any remants of its last waxing are long gone, and I've got (I think) rail dust and a bit of road tar all over behind the rear wheels and bumper. It's amazing how many things you can find when you get 3 inches away and REALLY scrutinize your paint...

Phalanx--that is WAY beyond the realm of possibility.

While my 1/48 Milia is in pieces being tweaked (mainly sanding, gluing, and clear nail polishing) I've already got the feet out and am thinking about painting them to match the 1/60. I'll probably take the feet totally apart into pieces prior to painting, but I'm wondering about long-term flaking/chipping--especially with most metallic paints being more fragile. I plan to use Tamiya Flat Metallic Grey, it matches pretty well to Yamato's dark metallic paint. PS--pics of painted 1/48 feet would be nice, or opinions of if it looks better once you did it.

Assuming you don't want to use actual paint stripper for risk of damaging your finish---scrape it off. The only issue is how sharp a scraper you can use without damaging the windshield. I've found most glass to be surprisingly resistant to your basic razor-blade scraper.

I never clean my windshield with anything dedicated--it gets the same soap and water as the rest of the car. It gets windshield washer fluid almost every day though. (Prestone at the moment, doesn't freeze up in winter quite so easily as generic blue stuff)