David Hingtgen

My comment about the high-end graphics card was just to illustrate that I plan to do a cheap upgrade, not get a whole new system (which would include a high-end graphics card) I originally planned to do memory only (hundred bucks) and maybe a cheap graphics card (hundred bucks or a bit more). But checking around, it seems that my PC is so close to maxing out its powersupply as-built, that doing almost anything requires a new power supply. But if I can get by with a Seasonic 330 or 380watt, then I can still do everything for well under 300 bucks.

Thanks much for all the info everyone. I noticed earlier that my CPU fan is a CoolerMaster, could be a factor as to why this PC is so quiet overall. Was looking at Seasonic lately for power, for sheer quality/noise. Ok, question: A lot of places say that graphics cards really only ask for 350+ watt power supplies due to the actual amperage on the 12v rails being higher on those power supplied. Any place to find out what specific cards REALLY need, and what power supply I actually need? I mean, getting 500 or 600 would be a waste of money if it's not needed, and would just be a possible source of heat/noise. The calculator at http://extreme.outervision.com seems the most specific, and is giving me from 237 to 264 needed for various combinations I'm considering. Which would make the most sense to me, as I'm only adding a bit of memory and a low/medium-end card. I shouldn't need to DOUBLE the powersupply wattage. Yes, while I will be getting new RAM and video card---they will be be fairly cheap. Being able to use 512MB memory chips and use all 4 slots instead of 1GB in 2 slots will basically pay for the new power supply. A high-end graphics card alone will cost more than I plan to spend for the whole upgrade.

Here's what may be a stupid question: People always seem to talk about the chips or a "generic" board, but never the actual specific company that sells them like you'd find in BestBuy. Example: GeForce 6600. There are a bunch of brands that sell GeForce 6600 cards but I rarely see any comments about the "final" brand---from what I can tell one of the few differences is the fan installed. And as you know, I'm looking for quiet. Who has good fans on their cards? Is there really that much difference whose GeForce card you buy, or will any GeForce 6600 be nigh-identical to another?

Ok, reading more----currently getting even a cheap modern graphics looks to be a problem due to their power requirements. So now I'm thinking about a new power supply. Then, I could get most any card I want, and any memory I want and not have to worry about over-taxing the system. And could do many future upgrades as well. And a new PS with my original plan of 1GB of new PC2700 memory, would probably be cheaper than 2GB of 3200 memory anyways. So, how does one change a power supply? Easy, hard, risk of frying the PC the first time I attempt it? That's one of the few things I've never dealt with at all in a PC. Also, I have found the OEM supplier of my PC's powersupply, and going from 250W to 300W seems almost pointless and not future-proof at all, but they have a 450W one as well. http://www.power-on.com/ea450p.html How are OEM ones in general? Because my current one (Their 250W) is quite quiet and reliable, after 4 years. I really want a QUIET one above all else. 99% of all Graphics cards want 300+ watts, and specify a certain amperage for the 12v rail. My current powersupply is well below both of those specs. Or would it be much more advisable to go with an aftermarket powersupply.

For RAM---I'm now thinking about going with 2, 1GB 3200 chips now, replacing the originals. Why? Because like all HP's, the power supply is barely large enough, and according to online power calculators, having all 4 RAM slots active would take it to the limit taking into account the rest of my PC, especially if I get a new graphics card. Also, then I could have all 3200 instead of 2700. I'm actually more concerned about power consumption and speed, than capacity at the moment. (I could get 2 512MB 3200's instead, but that'd only be doubling my current RAM---I do like to keep my graphic editing programs open with multiple pics at once, all while online with a massive "undo" history---while I don't do it often, I do do it) Still deciding, but it's pretty much narrowed down to getting 2 PC3200 chips to replace my 2 PC2700 chips--only question is will the new ones be 512 or 1G each. RAM question: my original PC2700 has a latency of only 2.5, but most all 3200 seems to have it at 3. I'd expect newer/better RAM to have a smaller latency, not greater. Would this be a factor at all really, if I plan to replace it all with 3 instead of adding more 2.5 to my original? Of course, this brings up the power thing again--but I doubt that 2.6v will really be that much of a strain compared to my (presumably) 2.5v original. Also---saw several people recommend Crucial for memory. Good? They also have Radeon cards of the right price range. Also found a specific mention of Crucial's 3200 1GB RAM working with my exact PC. Hopefully final RAM question: I like to have a LOT of files in particular folders on my PC (you can guess how many jet photos I have). One to two thousand. What (if anything) would increase the speed at which windows "loads" the folder to display them? (I've noticed it slows down notably past 1000 or so) RAM capacity/speed/latency? Processor? VF-19, about the link you posted-I'm wondering if there's a typo---the Radeon XT1650 Pro is listed for both the 175 and 120 category---but it seems to be priced at 175 at most retailers. For the 120 category, do they mean the 1050?

Ack, edited this post instead of posting new reply! Guess it's gone now.

I think I put more quarters into that, than any arcade game but SF 2.

I plan on keeping this PC for a few more years if possible (it's my most reliable one ever by far)---the graphics card upgrade is mainly just to get higher framerates on my existing games. I'd actually like "the best card I can get that doesn't have a massive cooling fan and power requirements" as I don't want to have to upgrade the power supply, and I have a surprisingly quiet rig currently. (noise is big with me, if you've ever seen my 360 rants) Or maybe I should put it this way: Would a $100-125 card be worth it at all? Taking into account that I don't play games much, and my standards aren't that high. (My monitor is a 15inch, and I run at 1024x768) But I mean, the card is some 4 years old now and it was cheap then--I'd figure even 40 or 50 buck cards now would be noticeably better.

While I'm in an upgrading mood: My motherboard can accomodate AGP8X graphics cards. Is it worth upgrading (and suggestions welcome) or is that so far behind the PCI-E cards now that I should just wait until I have a new motherboard/system? I currently have the GeForce 4 MX440 that it came with originally. It does OK for the few games I currently have (I'm 99% a console gamer) but with it only having 64MB while every one on the market now is 256 for well under a hundred bucks, I'm definitely thinking about upgrading.

I like that camo a lot. If it was US, it'd be Light Ghost Grey, Intermediate Blue, and either Neutral or Dark Gull grey.

I have the cable guy coming on Tuesday to hook up my broadband connection, so I'll let everyone know if/when I get my Live account set up.

Swapping around the chips confirmed that---I opened the case last night and experimented with different configurations and putting them in non-paired locations made CPU-ID report "single channel" operation---and I swear I noticed it being slower.

OK, CPU-Z says I have dual channel, but performance mode is disabled. What's "performance mode"? Is that when DDR is actually operating in dual channel? And now I know the factory chips have latency of 2.5ms, and the timing is 2.5-3-3-7. Manufacturer is "Smart Modular", and both chips carry build dates of the same week, so they're presumably from the same batch and all went straight into HP computers, probably nigh-sequentially. (that's one of the things I always hate about a new PC--hard to find out exactly what's inside unless you installed it yourself)

Ummm---no. The 727 is way too old and small, and UPS already has all they need. And any they could get now probably wouldn't be up to their specs--most are third or fourth-hand now. There is no such thing as a DC-11. If you meant the MD-11---they're all taken. (same with the DC-10) UPS and FedEx (and Gemini and any other cargo carrier) will pay almost anything for an MD-11 nowadays, but there's simply none out there. If there's one plane type you won't find "sitting out in the desert", it's an MD-11. I wouldn't be surprised if some day someone's desperate enough to fix up Delta's burned one. As for a max weight rejected takeoff test: Fill the plane up to its maximum takeoff weight. Wear the brakes down to less than 10% of the pads left. Take it up to V1, and stop it as hard as you can, without using reverse thrust. Always results in white-hot glowing brakes, and usually requires replacing the entire brake assembly and wheels. When it doesn't go well (747SP, A340-600) the tires and brakes really can't take it, and the landing gear starts to melt and stuff starts burning and exploding. The only way to really fail is to not stop in the alotted space, or to actually have debris penetrate the passenger cabin, or to somehow prevent evacuation of the aircraft. As for F-14 maintenance: About half of the F-14D's were upgraded from A's, and so were still 1970's vintage. New cockpit and engines, but all the other systems were decades old still.

Actually, some other quotes from Red Flag had mechanics raving about the F-22, compared to the F-15. Many hours less work for the same job. As for Airbus--it's not exactly news. The A380 problems have been, are, and will in the future, suck that company dry. In related news, the A380's max-weight rejected takeoff test is supposed to happen in early March. If it goes anything like the A340-600's, expect lots of explosions and flaming debris.

So, how good is the F-22? Well, the 94th FS is back from taking their F-22's to Red Flag. Choice quotes on fighting the F-22: Lt. Col. Larry Bruce, 65th Aggressor Squadron commander, admits flying against the Raptor is a very frustrating experience. Reluctantly, he admitted "it's humbling to fly against the F-22," - humbling, not only because of its stealth, but also its unmatched maneuverability and power. "I can't see the [expletive deleted] thing," said RAAF Squadron Leader Stephen Chappell. "It won't let me put a weapons system on it, even when I can see it visually through the canopy. [Flying against the F-22] annoys the hell out of me." From un-named Topgun pilots: "that thing is <expletive deleted> magic" "the laws of physics do not apply to that airplane" Note that the first quote is from the commander of the Nellis Agressor Squadron, who are probably THE most skilled air-to-air pilots in the US. They train for pure air-to-air all the time and usually mop the floor with any other squadron.

Shin--I have a Crusader book with a section on the Super Crusader. I'll get back to you on it.

Every PC I every get has a completely different type of memory than the last, so I'm never "up" on it. Anyways, it's time to upgrade, but I need some clarification. Here's the page for my motherboard if you care to look: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documen...643&lang=en BTW--PNY brand is half off at BestBuy now. Decent brand? Any suggestions, or brands to avoid? Good places to shop online? My PC came with PC2700 DDR DIMMs (it's an HP, circa late 2003). Has 4 slots, slots 1 and 2 currently have 256MB each (factory), slots 3 and 4 are empty. My question is about dual channel (DDR) mode, pairing, and speed. HP's RAM page for their required DIMM's say: "The following requirements must be met for the DDR memory to function in Dual Channel mode: Same Density (256MB, 512MB, etc.) Same DRAM chip technology (x8 or x16) All either single-sided or dual-sided Matched in both Channel A and Channel B memory channels" Does "matched in both" mean all 4 have to be identical, or just "identical within a pair"---I am currently leaning towards keeping slot 1 and 2 as they are (removing memory is a B*TCH, adding's easy) and putting in 512MB modules in slots 3 and 4, for a 1.5GB total. However, I used crucial.com's memory scanner, and it says my PC doesn't support dual channel mode, even though the motherboard specs say multiple times it does. Is there any way to check/confirm if it does, and if it's doing it now? Finally--- My PC came with 2700 memory, but the motherboard specs say it can handle 3200. Is the difference noticeable? Because if I put in new memory, even if its 3200, it'll only operate at 2700 because of the older memory still in. I'd like to avoid replacing the original memory if possible, so I need to know if it'd really be worth replacing them, just to get perhaps another 500MB of memory, with the speed bumped up to 3200. PS---HP's site says replacement DIMM must be 1.8 volts. But that seems rare, at least the first 3 places I checked didn't have any. Is that critical, or just an old spec nobody manufactures to anymore? (everything I found now was 2.5 or 2.6, and most places don't even list that spec) Also, it's just a "generic" HP DIMM page, not specific to any of my PC.

If the panel that makes up the side of the fuselage right behind the intakes (attached to the hip/belly plates) could be made thinner, and fold 180 to lay flush along the hip plates in battroid mode--that could work quite nicely. Still like the D'stance version better though.

FYI, the 777 is assembled so carefully, that the tolerance is less than the difference between "when one wing is in the shade, and one in the sun". The temperature difference will affect the wingspan like 1/32000 of an inch. The 727 has certain parts that they literally shut down the factory, and have one guy in thick boots standing on a rubber mat, holding his breath, insert them--otherwise they won't fit (and they have to be within .1 degree of each other, and are kept in dry ice to maintain it) Tolerances like that have been a big part of *US* aviation for a while. Britain? That's pretty new. Go look at a US Navy T-45. It's real obvious which half is built in the UK, and which half is built in the US.

They have to take the phases of the moon into account when building the Eurofighter: http://www.baesystems.com/Newsroom/NewsRel...7120145958.html USS John F Kennedy to be decommissioned: http://www.news4jax.com/news/11060487/detail.html Su-30MKI's practice again Mirages, French surprised they lost: http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/Su-30s_...how/1653818.cms (pop ups a plenty, and not much more info than the title really)

I think he means the specific titles, like "Sharon Apple Concert Attendee" and "Heatshield scrubber".

I still haven't seen a Wii here---I don't go out hunting for them, but I do check every time I'm in a store that sells them (which is pretty darn often)

Exactly. All hail the color "corrected" photos out there of the prototype F-15's. Though ironically, as I said--it'd do pretty well for a Thundercracker, just use silver instead of blue. (Though I've ranted plenty of times that matching the toy's dark metallic blue always looks a hundred times better than anime flat sky blue)

As we bring up often---nothing is truely permanent. No matter what they do to it, I'm pretty sure a cutting torch could get it off. Or a jackhammer. It's all about--what does it take to get it off, without damaging the toy, or at least, cosmetic damage.