David Hingtgen

Tons of G1 Jazz and Starscream at Target, an entire endcap. I don't think anyone with a Target will have a problem finding them once they get them in. I like the G1 Jazz colors a lot, but I still just don't think the mold itself is worth buying. G1 SS is very nice, but I'm waiting for Thundercracker.

It seems that Australia's Super Hornet pilots will be trained for carrier ops, for possible future joint operations on US carriers. Hmmmmmn.

Why Takara even tries for "realistic" I don't know. Strike Eagles aren't green. There are no black F-15's. There's one or two special scheme ones with a lot of blue, but they're nothing like TC, since they're half white and yellow.

Attachments are thumbnailed, linked pics are full-size (if they're not too big).

Seconding that. Anyone seen Takatoys lately? All his images were linked direct from his account at mac.com and it's closed---no modification images, and no pics of his sticker sheets to order either.

Read over at ARC that the latest version of MicroSol has no vinegar smell. Anyone bought a bottle recently? (even if I did, my hobby shop probably has year-old stock) That'd be welcome, as the place smells like vinegar all night after a good decaling session.

That still means thousands and thousands sitting at BestBuy, Target, and Wal-Mart distribution centers, to go out to the individual stores when they run out.

I believe it should be basically hovering, the F-22 does something similar.

"Rear wing" would be a stabilator.

Darn, Bioshock rented out again--I must have mis-guessed when to try to get it. Anyways, a spoiler-free answer is requested: IIRC, one of the big things is along the lines of "do you take all the Eve and kill the sisters for it, or do you take the least amount and let them live"---something about a big payout at the end if you do the latter. Is it worth it? As I plan to rent it and go through quickly, but still see as much as possible--is it just some super-ability (and is it worth it) or is it something big that changes the whole ending or something? Because most games where there's a choice, being evil/destructive is faster and easier.

::considering closing resurrected thread due to stupidity::

It works fine on one engine, the X-31 can do everything a Super Flanker can, and more, including the Herbst turn, Hook, and Mongoose. NASA has videos you can watch of it: http://www.dfrc.nasa.gov/Gallery/Movie/X-31/index.html Specifically, the Mongoose with a ground reference--watch and be amazed: http://www.dfrc.nasa.gov/Gallery/Movie/X-3...EM-0036-06.html (it's called the Mongoose as it's said to be the counter to the Cobra) Still, I don't know of any plane that really has YF-21-looking paddles. They're usually short and square, not long and triangular like the YF-21 or SV-51. The F-22 actually has the closest to that, shape-wise, but they're simply 2D, 2-piece ones.

I love the silver chrome, but the red and blue is tacky IMHO. The G1 scheme is a big plus though.

A quick check shows that many of the markings Yamato provides are very "Russian" if not specifically "Sukhoi" in appearance---I have found several that closely/exactly match Su-27 markings. Still haven't found any equivalent of "no step" however for sure--maybe Russian planes are just so inherently strong there's no restrictions. I've got great walkaround pics of a Ukranian Flanker, and even the flaps and stabs have NOTHING on them for warnings. Tons around the nose though. ::checks more:: Ok, I don't have pics of it, but some camo/marking/decal diagrams pretty clearly show that an "X" is the equivalent of the "no step". So use sticker #8. Though it seems they usually use red X's, not white. Of course, being a black plane, red doesn't show up well. Quick fact: for low-vis schemes, if the plane is black, the markings are red. Also, they like to outline the no-step area in hash-marks, with an X in the middle. Or, (on flaps and stab edges), you see something like this: ===X Here's a drawing of the latest Russian Su-27 camo, shows some markings. I'm kind of surprised they use the exact same "crane hook attachment here" marking as the US. Also, here's a photo showing some nose markings. Note the radiation warning on the nosecone--exact same as Yamato's sticker #1. PS---ALL lettering is Cyrillic. And there's a ton when you get up close.

Also, do Russo-German-Israeli planes of the future have ENGLISH warning signs on them? English is the universal aviation language, and many non-English-speaking nations still use "No Step", but if there's one place you won't find English, it's Russian-speaking nations. Personally, if I wanted to decal up a Sv-51, I'd buy a Flanker sheet.

IMHO everything varies. Color by color, brand by brand. I personally like Tamiya white for hand-brushing better than most whites. Just try a bunch. PS----Pollyscale. Probably the best overall acrylic, certainly for brushing. Available in MANY colors, but usually only found in the railroad colors.

Neat. I never snagged the DVD's of any of them (don't know why) and now I can get Blu-Ray versions.

The Tornado's the newest plane I know of with det-cord. Modern planes (to me) means 1990+ or so. Which is still 17 years ago. And with the Sv-51 being more advanced than anything we have now it's just kind of odd. Or maybe it has something to do with heatshield placement etc.

Det-cord in the canopy? Hmmn, never noticed the "real" one had any. (Kinda surprised they use it at all, can't think of any modern planes with it off the top of my head) I'm mainly curious about if the torso locks together in battroid mode. That's my #1 complaint about the -19, and the only way in which I think the original one was better. (It didn't lock either, but it stayed together better due to sheer weight of the diecast)

JsARCLIGHT---what was your total play time? Local place just got in Bioshock to rent. Gone before I could get it, but if I could beat it in a 5-day rental without playing too much per night I'd like to go that route. PS---I like games that give decent achievements for winning too. Too many games have insane requirements, unlikely ones, or just plain stupid ones. I personally feel you should get 1/4 to 1/3 just for winning, and probably get up to or a bit over half for also doing pretty "normal" stuff that isn't guaranteed but could easily happen. Like say 50 kills of a certain type, or 50 kills of a certain enemy type. Not 5,000. You could easily win the game with like 4 and 12 respectively, but if you "killed *everything*" like some people play you'd easily get 50. Of course there should be some hard/insane ones, but it shouldn't make up like 500 points worth. I mean seriously---shouldn't WINNING THE GAME be a fairly large achievement? 300pts minimum IMHO. That is the main goal, and should take the longest (or close to it). (Now, some games only give like 20pts for actually winning---but that's because they also gave 10pts for every stage leading up to the end--same thing)

Super Wal-Mart, not my normal one: 5 Ratchets, 2 ultimate BB. And a ton of Classics Mirage.

I mainly vote for Elite because it's black, and has a chance of having quieter fans. (AFAIK the quieter fans are Elite-only, but even then aren't that common) Also most likely to have the quieter drive. The bigger HDD is worthless. If you just want a basic system--get the Pro/$350, as recent ones have HDMI and the extra heat sink. And that's easier to tell, as it shows/lists HDMI on the box.

Fatalist--I'd buy an elite, but check the manufacturing date. Look for a really recent one---July/August. That actually applies to any 360. If they won't let you look/pick---buy from somewhere else. They way some distribution centers are, you could easily get one from last October that just arrived at the store. Or one that was built in China only 12 days ago.

I think we should make a gamertag list in this thread, besides the one in the 360 thread. Me: "Xenogears Id" mikeszekely: "Pharaohman" sorata, yellowlightman, veritas?

Luckily, I'm the exact opposite of an audiophile. Sounds quality means nothing to me. It's the "A" in A/V that seems to take the most money once you get into it. Just hook the player up directly to the best TV you can afford---that's my setup.