David Hingtgen

I've always been fond of spit on a t-shirt to remove ink and paint. As for actual Gundam markers---I've found they tend to be pretty fast-drying and color-fast, much more so than the "what most Americans use and call Gundam markers but aren't really" Sakura Micron Pigma pens. I know the spit and t-shirt method works, but it's more difficult with an actual Gundam marker than my much more commonly used Micron Pigma pens. You've got about 5 secs drying time before it starts getting more difficult to remove. That said, Gundam markers can be found in dark grey, which looks that much better on white than pure black.

Question--did I completely miss/forget something? Why does

Fins are molded black, the red and silver/grey bits are stickers or decals. Morpheus posted his build like 6 posts ago. http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=&a...st&p=661536 That's EXACTLY what it looks like when built "raw". Morpheus applied no stickers, added no paint. What you see is what you get. If you apply all the stickers, and paint nothing but the canopy for some reason, you get this: http://gamu-toys.info/gangu/pura/r3/mf01/mf01.html (he also inked in the panel lines, not sure by what method) ::edit:: And he painted the knife blade. A totally unpainted, unwashed/uninked build, but using decals instead of stickers: http://hima-toy.cocolog-nifty.com/blog/200...f-25f-802a.html ::edit:: Whoops, viewing the pics full-size makes me think they're the stickers too. Or the decals suck. I don't think we've seen a decaled-but-unpainted built yet. (which I plan to do) Graham---looking closely at the builds, I think the stickers are clear/Yamato style, not foil style. Disappointing, as I think foil would have worked and looked much better.

I think people are expecting WAY too much from the "tweaking". It's a 3D transforming sculpture. Changing anything more than .5mm affects every other piece it touches. They can't change ANYTHING noticeably without changing EVERYTHING. And that's not going to happen. They can bring the shield 1mm in closer to the forearm, or give the hips 4 degrees more articulation. But they're not going to make the legs 20% thinner, or the torso 30% longer. The final version will be nigh-identical to what we've seen since the beginning.

Geez, ep 2 wasn't even OVER in the US when you posted that. As for ep 2---heck, I like any scene with ma Petrelli.

Ando's beats all.

Ok, now that I fiddle with the helmet to get a good look and put them right in the light, the WW's do have different necks. Man, that's subtle. My Rattler WW had "head pointed down" as packaged and you couldn't even see the neck.

It's on (in the US) in 55 mins. Just a warning/notice.

...and get rid of the gigantic launch bars on the nosegear. I have yet to see one in the anime.

Found a Rattler! Wild Weasel is identical to the comic pack one, but his file card's a bit different, and he doesn't come with a footpeg stand. I'll sell/trade off the old one. Anyone interested? I'm still trying to get a GOOD Copperhead---I've found that pack twice now, but both times Copperhead had notable paint flaws--some of the worst I've seen in the line. Also, some older waves are being produced again it seems---I've found "new" IG Destros and carded CG's lately. (I really want to find some new hooded CC's) PS--anyone ordered from Cobrastickers.com? Are they shiny/glossy, or dull like the new Hasbro ones? Shin's right, the dull stickers suck. I'm thinking about buying their Rattler stickers, if they're better than Hasbro's.

Wow, they got the various shades of grey in all the right places. I'm surprised they engineered the kit to be able to do that. (there's no way the sprue arrangement would have worked like that by chance). Hmmn, I might have to just sell my Alto unbuilt and get Ozma's instead. (since it looks less and less likely I'll be getting Ozma's DX 1/60)

Being unpainted would mean you could use whatever wash you'd like without worrying about "interaction". The point of having the base paint and wash being 2 different types of paint are so that when you use the thinner to remove excess wash, the wash's thinner won't affect/remove the base paint. And/or so the wash doesn't stick to the base paint TOO well. Being bare slick plastic, the wash may actually come off too easy. wm cheng uses oil-paint wash over acrylic base coats. He's talked about his technique a few times: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...&pid=499682 and http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...mp;#entry344257 It's been discussed a few times in the main 1/72 VF-25 thread, but miriya and I plan to try/use this stuff: http://www.promodeller.com/promodellers-weathering-wash/

Due to being "Bandai white" from what I can tell (an almost purplish-white as opposed to their Gundam greenish-white) I plan to give it a lot of wash/weathering. Originally I was going to just faintly panel line it, but it's too "pure" white to look good like that. I think I'll be trying for "end of ep 14".

Hey, no VF-25 purchase means I can buy another v2 VF-1, or maybe more 1/100...

Having just transformed my 1/48 Milia for probably the last time (to take pics before selling it), I've decided that Yamato really should have done the "tailfins, head hatch and backpack lock" on the new 1/60 just like the 1/48. The 1/48 has a much closer-fitting backpack, and the "clasp" is hidden away in fighter mode. The 1/60's backpack sticks further out, and must be FORCED close to the backplate, bending and under stress by its hook---and it still doesn't stay as close as the 1/48 does. And it scrapes its tailfin paint off in the process. Now, even if the 1/48 didn't have a retractable antenna, it still wouldn't scrape paint off the fins for 2 reasons: 1. Its tailfins fold much flatter, and thus don't "protrude" from the backpack as far. (best tailfin folding of all). I'm still surprised why the new 1/60 has such "not flat" tailfin folding. They really only seem to get 90% of the way there, and I've fiddled with them a lot to make sure I'm doing it right---but that's how it is in the instructions. I can't believe Yamato "forgot" how the make the tailfins fold nice and flat on top of each other. The right one's pretty flat, but the left---not even close. 2. The forward antenna is proportionally a bit further forward--it can't touch the fins no matter what. If the 1/60's forward antenna was just 1 or 2mm further forward, it wouldn't scrape the trailing edge of the tailfin. Really, the 1/60's only real design flaw (or at least, not as good as the 1/48) IMHO is the backpack---the tailfins don't fold flat, it doesn't sit as close to the backplate as the 1/48, it has a highly visible hook, and the tailfins get their paint scraped off. It's also missing the neat cross-hatch pattern on the backpack's "exhaust flap".

I never add ALL the pics, as often times they're similar angles to what we've seen before or similar to each other. It also prevents the first post from having 50+ images. I only add the "interesting" or important new pics.

I got my shipping notice 3 days ago, but it was via SAL, so some people who are on backorder but chose EMS may get it first if HLJ restocks in a week or two.

Just like the pic you posted. I haven't heard of any Hikarus doing it yet.

Notice that the SHE has the tailfins protrude out beyond the legs, alongside the feet in battroid They don't even retract into the leg fully. Also--the SHE has no landing gear at all. That gives the legs a lot more internal room for tailfins. (and even then they still don't fit inside)

Anyone got tailfin "black paint rubbing off" on a Hikaru? Just curious, since it seems so common on Roy's. (and is getting worse on every transformation with mine)

Umm, I put a pic of the FAST packs in the first post of the thread... 4th pic, upper right of the group. One of the earliest pics we ever got.

I *always* wait for subs. Sometimes during an ep I'll think "what if this was raw" and realize just how much I'd miss. There's a lot of "talking off screen" in this series, more than most IMHO. (Grace and Brera mind-talking counts too)

I've only done maybe 3 full transformations, so nothing cracked yet. However---at this rate, I will need a new left tailfin due to paint wear soon. Exact same problem as seen earlier--the antenna/nubs rub on the tailfin in battroid mode, and the black paint rubs off very easily. I noticed I had a "shiny spot" after ONE transfomation, and now I've got tiny bits of white visible. Like this, but not nearly as bad: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=&a...st&p=650104 Anyone got a suggestion for a clear coat for protection? Maybe flattened future? The black Yamato uses is VERY flat, even as flat goes. Most any clear would be shinier. (and I sure don't want the skull markings to yellow) I really don't think there's any way to prevent contact--it's inherent to the transformation, with and without FAST packs. (I still don't see the point of the recess-able panel in this one--it doesn't help or do anything, and it can't be recessed with FAST packs attached---it's like they did it because the 1/48 does, only it doesn't do anything this time around) PS---anyone know of a good way to get the arms back into fighter mode position? The shoulder armor/shoulder hinges never seem to want to line up right easily--they swing OUT easily enough, but when pushing the shoulder armor back in between the legs, they always seem to want to rotate with the shoulder hinges not rotating, when you need the opposite to occur. (ironically I have trouble with this on the 1/48 too, but never on the original 1/60)

I'd say it depends on how in-depth you go.

I want wing detents too. I am very obsessive about matching the angles...