David Hingtgen

Yup. Seems to be the new style for Kawamori--if anything it helps a lot in making realistic 3D toys/models of his latest designs, as you don't have to worry about retractable hands. (personally, I think that's why he does it now)

Does anyone have the specs for the LEDs that Bandai uses in MG/PG kits? I've got my PG Zero taken apart further than I ever have before for some cleaning/tweaking and am considering going "all the way" to replace/redo some parts, to the point of unsoldering the LEDs to upgrade them and allow FULL disassembly of the torso. The main problem with PG WZC's lights is that the eyes are "indirectly lightpiped" and there are two layers of clear plastic for them, not just one. So they BARELY light up, whereas the crest/head sensors are very bright--the opposite of what I want. A much brighter LED alone wouldn't help much, I really need to get one of those wide-angle LEDs I think, to help get more of the light into the surrounding part that leads to the eyes. But I'd like some electrical specs to ensure compatability before I start swapping LEDs. Anyone ever seen someone attempt "lighting upgrades" in a PG kit?

Ignoring the bad plot and lines(all 3 of them), I really liked Ming-Na Wen in the first movie.

I'd vote for Nora.

The VF-25's hands don't retract into the arms, they "stick into the shield up to the base of the fingers" with the back of the hand remaining visible.

Me again: Anyone know of a review or something about the pearl-coating PG Wing Zero? I can find nothing other than the single main photo everywhere has. I'm contemplating trying to order just a few of its sprues from HLJ for my first-release Zero. Does anyone know if the feathers themselves are coated, or are they still plain white rubber? Also---any suggestions/tips on a good gold paint to use for a Gundam? My most recent experience with Tamiya X-12 sucked, it's basically silver+clear yellow factory mixed. And Tamiya clear yellow is basically maple syrup in color and stickyness. (but the color is still the best I've found) My PG Zero has Tamiya clear yellow over Testors? silver for its gold parts, but I'm seriously considering redoing them, but I'm not sure with what. Might just go with pure yellow, as every gold paint I've ever tried sucks, in either appearance and/or application. Or maybe some sort of gold-chrome spraypaint. (and before I risk ruining my originals I'm trying to get a spare set of yellow parts, or the pearl-coated version---annoyingly they're not on their own sprue, they're on the main color-injected sprue which greatly increases the acquisition cost) Possibly--pearlizing my existing wings. I bought a can of clear pearl spraypaint to try when I got the kit, but it was more like "clearcoat with small gold and silver flecks" and was only slightly pearlescent. I really want a rainbow effect. Anyone know of something that can be airbrushed on? Also---is there a way to strip pigma micron ink? I did ink in the wings a bit, but I'd want them to be ink-free if I try to make them pearlescent.

I like that pic a lot. Mainly because of the "hair swap". (I like swaps) ::imagines Sheryl/Grace swap::

As did I--but frankly, this is a lot less than we see in many Yamato threads.

I'm still trying to find a GOOD Copperhead. I've seen the pack twice now, passed both times due to godawful paint apps.

Bandai didn't do any schematics, there's just photos of the completed model.

Crotch armor's still missing. And these pics just prove again that Bandai seems to have "missed the point" of the VF-25, that which defines it compared to other valks: The VF-25 is supposed to be skinny in battroid so as not to look FAT when all armored up. VF-25 is the first valk to be able to transform in full armor, and is thus designed to look good with it equipped in all modes. Unless you fatten it up...

The VF-25's wings are not fully encased when full armor is used. They are simply swept very far back, and end up behind/surrounded by armor parts, but not "totally encased" as many people think---the purplish wing-shaped extensions from the boosters are not a cover for the wingtips.. The tips are clearly visible here between the booster nozzles:

Here's my inner nozzles--hard to photograph the lighting effects, this was the best I could do. Depending on the light angle, they either look metallic grey, iridescent, or polished:

Hope Hasbro realizes that when cheap knock-offs look better than their own stuff, they might want to start making better vehicles...

It's 100x better than their Malak head sculpt...

I want a VF-0D---why is such an obvious choice missing from the polls? It'd be easier/cheaper for them to make than something from scratch.

He means ventral fins. PS--F-14 doesn't have any wing-mounted hardpoints. (the glove pylons are just that--glove-mounted) And many F-8's never had any wing-mounted hardpoints, and it was one of the "purest" fighter jets ever built.

There's a thread pinned at the top of the forum...

Heh heh--EVERYTYHING in those pics in 1/72, including the Ultrasaurus.

A 1/32 VF-25 would cost more than any PG ever made. Heck, a *non-transforming* VF-25 fighter would probably cost around 200 bucks in 1/32 scale if made to current jet model standards. Then double or triple the parts to make it transform...

I was hoping someone would catch that--post was a bit sarcastic, and referring to that scene.

IMHO that's the least Lamborghini-esque car they've made in decades. I still like the Countach best, followed by the Diablo. Silhouette/Jalpa/Miura all about equal.

You have to admit EVA-01 is 100x more popular worldwide than the VF-25. If any mecha of the last 25 years was going to be a non-Gundam PG, it'd be that.

A secondary goal is to have pristine plastic underneath--I'd like to get it back to "fresh from the sprue" condition if possible. (I may simply clearcoat the bare plastic)

I've got a Gundam I did a few years ago that I did the "silver with Tamiya clear yellow over it" method for the gold parts, and I think I'd like to try something else on it. Googling for Tamiya paint stripping brings up OxiClean a lot, but seems that it doesn't like paint older than a few months. (and I honestly don't remember what silver paint I have underneath the Tamiya clear yellow--could easily be Testors enamel) Anyone tried 91% etc rubbing alcohol on Tamiya? That's my fave paint stripper, when it works.