David Hingtgen

I don't think I've ever seen/heard of airbrush ink. How intensely colored is it? I found some citadel games purple wash, but it seemed too streaky/uneven in the bottle, just watching how it behaved by swirling it around. ::edit:: I found this--airbrush "color", and they have transparent dioxazine purple--dioxazine is THE purple pigment IMHO, anything made with it has to be intense. A couple hours ago I was wondering if I could buy raw dioxazine purple pigments somewhere, and if they'd mix with future. http://www.dickblick.com/zz253/21/ (we just got a Dick Blick store here recently, ONLY place in town that sells flow-aid) PS--lilac sharpie doesn't work. Every color seems to behave quite differently. Strangely, sharpie over dried Future is BAD, streaks/sticks, weird. Sharpie over bare plastic is much better. The rougher the surface the better---but that kinda goes against having a smooth shiny canopy.

I've found the icing "pastes" from Wiltons. But they have sugar and corn syrup in them. They'd go bad after a while. I also figure they'd be too sticky to paint with no matter how thinned. (they're awesome for frosting though) Will experiment more tonight with my red #3/40 mix. (couldn't find pure #3) Opacity/intensity isn't the problem, it's raw "what hue they make when mixed". Just a few drops makes a nice canopy tint.

If you don't believe me, try it yourself. Or at least, Red #40 and Blue #1 sure don't make purple when mixed together (despite what the box says). Now, the purple icing tint (unsuitable for mixing with future) was made of red and blue food coloring, but maybe it used blue #2 or something. But the "common food color from a grocer" doesn't work. Instantly makes brown, even with only small amounts of red added to the blue. Impure/multi-spectral colors or something. A purplish-brown for sure, but brown. I need to go read the list of what's on the purple tint again, see if it uses different dyes. Of course, I have no idea where to get blue #2 or red #3 if it uses them, both are fairly rare. PS---testing with Sharpies last night was promising, bought a "lilac" one on my way home after voting, will see how it goes. (they were on sale too, so little lost if it doesn't work) ::edit:: Hmmn, found an old bottle of red--and it has a mix of red #40 and red #3. And it almost made purple for a second. Needs an incredibly high ratio, like 10:1 blue:red. Will experiment more tonight. Maybe it really does depend on WHICH red and blue you have. If I could find pure red #3....

Personally, I think trying to make a fighter-only out of it would be a waste.

I'm pretty sure Sharpie will streak. Will experiment a bit with my red and orange ones on some spare clear bits, and see if buying a purple one might be worth it. Future+Tamiya clear does NOT work. They don't mix. At all. It's a really cool effect to watch though, they're much worse than oil and water. (actually, I've found Future doesn't mix with any paint I've tried, except Tamiya Flat base--which isn't really paint) It mixes great with food color, it's just that red+blue food color won't make purple. If I can find purple food color, that would probably work well. India ink---I don't think I've ever seen purple.

I changed the topic description----it was incredibly descriptive IMHO, that's all people do around here...

Ep 12 is great for reference. Yes, there is a little red spot at the base of the head laser, but on the kit even a 25/0 brush won't cut it I think. Also a good view of the sides of the jaw showing the white/grey/black layering, as well as the grey "mouth" inside the jaw.

Gah, so close. Got another successful coat on the sensors, but they're still not purple enough. Think I got the windscreen done well. But after 3 attempts on the main canopy, and finally getting the left side nice enough and not streaked---I noticed the right side dried with an obvious streak/clump smear. Stripping it now, will re-Future tonight, try to paint it again tomorrow. Getting better, though I'd hoped I'd be done with canopy tinting today!

We do have a Halloween thread too: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...25&start=25

Hasbro also shows long stacks in most of their ads for both reissue G1 and MP...

IMHO, the *defining* feature of the VF-25 is how skinny it is. (So as to accomodate full armor yet not look like the Stay-Puft Marshmallow man that the VF-1, VF-0, and VF-11 do). I believe that was Kawamori's stated goal/intention/reason for the -25's appearance. If it's not skinny--it doesn't look like a VF-25. (you have to admit, it's incredibly generic-looking in fighter mode, so battroid mode has to be the defining feature)

Graham, buy him LEGO Clone Trooper stuff--best of both worlds. (well, 4.5 is a bit young for LEGO---but you could play with it too!)

Quick note: The white stripe on the leading edge of the tailfins---the decal fits much better and is more opaque than the sticker. Use the decal if at all possible. ::edit:: Surprisingly, the red stripes on the leading edge of the ventral fins are far too small to try to 'wrap around' the leading edge. I've decided to go for an "intentional" black extreme leading edge, with the red just behind it. There's a good 1mm between the leading edge of the fin and the panel line all around the decal. Now I'm wondering how the rudder striping will work. (gotta paint the fin spike first though). Wing stripes---the example kit in the instructions is wrong, the stripes aren't straight at all if you take a good look. I think I found the "right" way, but I won't really know until the kit's finished with all the stripes attached. Will post pic once they're done and dry. Wm---a snapped-together Bandai kit will not "unsnap" easily. You will certainly need to trim any pins on parts you need to separate. Cut the ends of the pins at a 45-degree angle before inserting. Slots/tabs come apart much easier, but pin-tube connections can be VERY strong---trim the pins, at an angle, or you'll break more of them than come apart cleanly. And I know from experience that the inner nozzles can have quite a grip on the outer nozzles--do not PULL the inner nozzles from the outer. Push them out from above, using a paintbrush end or something. Clear purple--one of my two methods seemed to be working, but I ran out of paint before I was even half done, so I had to strip 2 of the parts and re-Future them. Will mix up a much larger batch of paint tomorrow and try again. Here's the nose sensor, which I did have enough paint to do a decent coat, will add another tomorrow as it's still almost colorless from some angles:

http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...st&id=59592 My reply didn't post. Anyways---despite how much I like this pic, I keep thinking how much better it'd be better if it was Grace in Mylene's outfit. (seriously, I'd pay cash for a good drawing of that--or maybe paint a 1/72 Alto)

Ah, you've got a hard drive enclosure fan. (my case can do that, but I only have one HDD and it's suspended, so it has lots of space/air around it) And a "bottom-mounted power supply". (many of the cases I was looking at had it, but I went with a traditional setup)

And especially with 4 hard drives---hard drives usually have no heatsink or fan, they only cool themselves by the air flowing around that's being driven by other part's fans---and if there's a ton of cables surrounding them, you're blocking their only means of cooling.

Heat/airflow/noise. Get the cables out of the way and everything gets better airflow, and thus runs cooler and quieter. Especially true for CPU/GPU----if there's a lot of cables in the way, blocking airflow to their heatsinks, they WILL run hotter and run up their fans more often, shortening their life.

Eh, I work slow enough at the moment that I can still photograph some things. Also, wm cheng photographs EVERYTHING anyways, so my pics won't be needed much. I do plan to airbrush the canopy this afternoon, 2 things to try---and however the canopy turns out, it turns out.

From the side they looked to be stacked top/bottom, but a belly view clearly shows they're side by side---but it looks like the standard gunpod is "almost" in its normal place, with the sniper pod tucked between that and the leg.

Ok, I swear these decals behave oppositely of all the ones I've ever used before. (which is strange as they "seem" so normal on the sheet) And I'm a perfectionist, so tiny flaws bug me. Is there any chance someone in the US/Canada who used the stickers on theirs, would be willing to send me a few of the decals as replacements/spares? I could use the "stripe on top of the head" (15) and the "black markings on the feet" (50/51). (they're on/done well enough, but if I had more I'd replace them and do it again better, as now I know how they behave and what techniques work the best) I might have found something that'll work for clear purple---I actually found transparent purple paint! But it's paint intended for airbrush shirt-painting, so I don't know how well it'll do on plastic.

This needs to be mentioned again, so long as polidread's not "burned out" from finishing these 3 new ones.

I think I know what the left one is...

I wasn't doing a full list of Ozma vs Alto differences. (backplate's different too, again to accomodate the head)

Well, someone at Bandai knows---the model kits have different chest plates for Alto and Ozma.

Saw 25th Prime today. 'Tis pink. Also, the trailer stripes are matte metallic, not shiny foil metallic.