David Hingtgen

The point is, these items shouldn't be exclusive in first place. It's not "transparent green armor" or "All that VF Sheryl-scheme VF-25". It's some of the best-known stuff in the series. I mean c'mon---EVERYONE that's going to buy a Luca wants a Ghost to go with it. And speakers plus Ranka for Michael?

"Playable" is a whole lot different from "in good condition". I swear I've seen used games with blood and snot and who knows what else on them. Sure, they'll play, but do you even want to touch the disc to put it in? Same with cars--a winter beater will run, as will a brand new Vette. But which is nicer to sit in and drive? And assume the price difference between a winter beater and a new Vette is about 5%...

Damn.

The backwards ep is awesome in so many ways. And the last season sucks in so many ways...

And interestingly, those were among the best eps of each series.

Takara does that, but only for weird/obscure/repaints. Clear stuff, "anime repaint", etc. Not something very common/desired/expected for the normal release. This is half a step away from making FAST packs for Roy's VF-1S an exclusive. Something THAT many people want and expect to be available should NOT be hard to get.

Oh man is that going to tick off half of MW. (the half that likes the Bandai design). Speakers and a singing Ranka for Michael's valk---as a webshop exclusive? And Ghosts for Luca just as hard to get? Man, that sucks.

Needs more pink.

LOL to Bsu Legato. It's true, and I am, and I revel in it. As for Radd---THAT's what's bugging me. We have a 100% "came from movie 2-6" plated machined saucer, and an organic/bulbous engineering hull and nacelles. Like 2 different ships were welded together. Honestly, the nacelles make me think of Farscape if anything.

At least they're being honest, showing actual decal application and how opaque(not) the yellow is. They've obviously never heard of double-printing white and yellow inks.

I used to trade in and buy games at a local independent shop. They rejected lots of games. They had a PSX and TV set up right on the counter--they'd pop it in and test it right then and there. Anything you bought used, you knew would be in very good condition. (especially since most of the people trading in were people like me, who keep their stuff minty-mint)

I'm very surprised. I firmly stand by my "texture map of the Ent-A over altered polygons" statement. Incredibly lazy and uninspired. And funkily proportioned. Very hard to tell from that angle if it follows one of the main rules of Roddenberry's Trek ship design---nacelles must be visible from the front. Effectively that means they have to be above or below the saucer.

IMHO the problem isn't the overall shape/design, it's the little details. Anyone who has built a movie-era Trek kit knows "all the little things" that define movie-era Trek ships. And that has nearly every one. It's more movie-era-esque than the Ent-A, Reliant, or Excelsior. In fact, that slavish incorporation of all those little things is what says "fan-made" to me--they're little things that most people don't recognize/realize. It's too much a copy of what's come before, and this movie has clearly shown that "copying existing stuff" is NOT their art direction. Frankly, it's almost like if you took the texture map of the Ent-A, and placed it on a new polygonal model. The shape may be different, but all the little details are the same.

Too much like the refit. That design would piss off hard-core Trekkies more than any casting decision.

Sarcasm--you mean paying 95% of MISB for one that's scratched, dirty, missing half the pages in the manual and the artwork sleeve at Gamestop isn't a good value? (and they somehow show up in that condition the same week they're released)

The point is things are going backwards. Console games used to have to be "perfect" when arriving on shelves. Now they can be buggy as hell. (PC games weren't much different--15 years ago few people could go online to download a patch--and a couple megs would take all night)

...and then download updates, patches, and more patches until the game actually works on something other than a developer's system. QA and bug-checking no longer exists for videogames, they figure they'll just make everyone download patches if something doesn't work.

Just changing the brake pads. (and if I get more money/confidence---magnaflow catback next spring--maybe---I have no desire for it to be louder, I just want to open up the exhaust---mufflers alone may give what I want, apparently the mufflers are actually the main restriction in my car)

Thompson rocked in this ep. (though honestly it felt like he was filling in for "original badass corporate HRG" since HRG is now more like "family protector vengeful HRG")

I'm paranoid enough that I plan to NEVER get under my car unless it's on a professional hydraulic lift. (heck, I feel weird crawling under it when it's sitting on all 4 tires) But I still don't want it to fall while sitting beside it with my arm in the fenderwell... (Honestly, my main fear is damaging the car via improper jacking/jack). Aluminum subframe.

I've gotta ask--how'd you paint the canopy?

This is basically a US-only question: Any suggestions on a jack/jackstands to buy? I don't intend to jack the car up more than once or twice a year but I also don't want it falling on me. Want to spend less than a hundred for jack and stands. Car is a Grand Prix GXP, and they are just a bit lower than other Grand Prixs, so clearance is a minor issue. (it's not a Vette or anything, but one inch can make all the difference in the world). My car is also reported as requiring a surprisingly high lift height to actually get it off the wheels. (ramps are not an option at all---I'm buying a jack so I can take the wheels off) Sears Craftsman seems to be VERY hit-or-miss lately, yet a surprising number of people seem to like the cheapest one out there--the GM Goodwrench stuff from Wal-Mart. I have the following stores locally: Wal-Mart Sears (which do not have any jacks on sale at the moment) NAPA Autozone Advance Auto O'Reilly

Tamiya clear red and clear blue have the same problem as food coloring---they turn brown when mixed. I'll try mixing them again with the ratio that kinda sorta worked with dye earlier. (but Tamiya colored clear is SO inherently sticky and streaky, I don't know how I'd ever apply it evenly even airbrushing) As for red #3--actually, my really old food colors don't have it at all, but the newer ones do, including the one I looked at in the store today. Maybe they re-introduced a "safer" version? Or at least, determined it was safe enough to use in small amounts, as a "strengthener" to red 40.

Sure? Because mine rubbed on the first transformation, and get worse every time.

Different type of plastic used AFAIK, I only found one instance of someone trying RID on injection molded clear styrene, said it looked awful. (R/C canopies are usually ABS or vac-form AFAIK) Dye will "pool" just like paint, just in a different way---and you have NO way to control it. And again, many RC canopies are single-piece, smooth, frameless clear plastic, so there's no features that could interfere. ::edit:: Lexan? That behaves very differently than "normal" modeling plastic--paints, glues, and sands different.