David Hingtgen

I disagree with that, too. My fave book of them is "A Horse and his boy". Pure story IMHO. "The Final Battle" is my least-liked. Most preachy.

Narnia=best books I've ever read. My all-time favorite series. So I strongly disagree with myk.

Wipeout HD?

Answering my own question: Another coat did repeat the last one---shiny spots in the same areas. I wonder if the plastic is "different" on that piece---it sliced off VERY easily with an Xacto. Almost peeled off. So I sliced/sanded off most of it. Will let it dry/harden (lacquer and enamels soften the plastic a bit) then do a final sanding and spray again tomorrow.

Ok, I was specifically thinking 500 years prior to the game.

Nah, a Xenogears prequel would be much better.

I wasn't at all impressed with their Lion Voltron. It's the same toy we've had for 20 years, with new joints. If they'd actually done something like improving the basic sculpt of the lions, then it'd have been worth it. Some day, someone will make a red and green lion that don't suck. And a skinnier black lion. It's not that hard, you just have to mold the things out of more than 5 pieces, and utilize a transformation more complex than a gobot. A few folding panels on the flanks would work wonders for green and red lion, to hide where the legs retract into. And have Voltron's shoulders recess into black lion's. It's clear their goal was a "tweaked version of the original" and not an attempt at a truly new, awesome, ultimate edition of the character. It was kind of like Takara's Encore series---the original toy, slightly improved.

I've been heating up my spray can more and the results have been more consistent, so I'm happy. However, the last part I sprayed came out funny on one side (I knew it was going to be the last bit of paint that can had--shouldn't have risked it---I put on too much/too wet as I had to get in real close for the last pass or two). Small areas dried super-duper glossy as a result. It literally looks wet. I waited 6 hours and used a hair-dryer on it for a while, and it still looks like it was sprayed 30 secs ago. But I risked touching it--it's dry there. So---should I just add another thin coat on top, or sand it down first? In my experience, gloss paint is even more dependent upon the previous layers than other paints---so if I add another coat, won't the new coat also look "glossier" in those same spots, due to having such a smooth underlying coat? Or, since the new coat will be less glossy inherently, will it kind of flatten everything out? I'll have to wait a while before I can sand---gloss paint takes a while to REALLY dry, and it just gunks up if you try to sand it before it's REALLY dry. Again--my goal is not to achieve a certain level of gloss, just that everything looks even. (I don't have much experience with gloss---military ships and planes pretty much only ever call for lots of shades of dull grey)

New Blu-Ray this week: Galactica, entire series including Razor Galactica Season 4.5 Dollhouse, Season 1 The entire Fast and the Furious series 12 Monkeys Green Lantern: First Flight Dragonball: Evolution

Umm, that actually does appear to be another difference between the Hasbro and Takara versions---Hasbro uses bright orange-red plastic and too-light blue plastic. Takara's version is much darker, glossier, and metallic--quite possibly painted. The doors certainly are.

DOA XBV2 is much worse, if you can believe it. That's quite high on my list of "I want those minutes of my life back".

That model is incorrect for *any* Jolly Rogers scheme. Though which scheme could determine "totally wrong" vs "slightly wrong". (For $230, I'd demand either "perfect" or "only very, very, slightly wrong")

Last of the Mohicans?

Isn't that an adaptation of the movie, not the other way 'round?

I specifically said Fellowship of the Ring, not the whole LOTR. That book was boring. I'd read the Hobbit when I was 10 or 12 or so and loved it, and a year or two later I found Fellowship in the school library--I don't think I ever finished it. A few years later I found the Hobbit/LOTR 4-pack cheap and bought it, vowing to finish LOTR. I did and enjoyed LOTR on the whole, but still struggled through FOTR. As for Jurassic Park---nope, I definitely thought the book was better.

I'll start off with "Last of the Mohicans" due to it being *way* better than the book. Another that comes to mind is "Fellowship of the Ring".

"Fight fight fight, hiss hiss hiss, the Sheryl and Ranka movie!"

Ok, I know leaded pump nozzles are physically incapable of fitting into an unleaded-only fill tube, to prevent things like this. Diesel nozzles though, will fit?

I'd so watch an Iron Woman movie:

Just got an answer to my lower airbrake question: http://www.fighting118th.com/wp-content/up...7/newf14-10.jpg Still, I'm most curious about the paint scheme, as all the popular/famous ones will not work on this mold, honestly. (I'd snag the Black Knights' anniversary scheme maybe, but that's about it for a late-era A model)

I actually had no real problems until the server was reset recently. Now, it's getting worse every day. Got another "IPS driver error" message once.

They were disabled on the A model, not removed. And it was years after service entry when it happened. Only later versions physically lack them. Still, it is pointless for them to be on this model, as they were permanently locked shut by the era this mold depicts. They should be nothing more than an engraved line, not a separate part (which leads to gaps and seams).

Gah, I might be too late, but just in case: Ask if the lower speedbrakes open too! Having just the upper one open is wrong---it'd be like having just the nosegear retractable, and not ALL the landing gear. F-14s have 3 speedbrakes, not 1--and the pilot can't pick which to deploy---they all go or none do. Also please point out that physically, it's a 1995+ F-14A, and wholly unsuitable for any 1970's or 1980's paint scheme.

Too shiny? Not shiny enough. I want chromed everything. The real thing's chromed! (real as in the Peterbilt they film). Complaining that "chrome is too shiny" and doesn't look right to represent the real truck's chrome is kind of like saying "that real wood used for that model ship's deck looks too woody---imitation wood-look vinyl would be better".

I still think Mylene's valk should work better in 3D than most--mainly because it's so curved---the entire fuselage, wings etc are are "funkily shaped" in order to accomodate the "feminine" battroid mode. The battroid mode dictates the shape of the fighter, not the other way around. This is also a good time to link to one of Polidread's latest drawings: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...st&p=770977