David Hingtgen

I have no idea what tugs use for ballast. (locomotives, yes)

Lead?

Aw ****, I edited your post instead of my own. (it happens with mod power---blah blah great responsibility) Sorry! Anyways: While that's true (I wouldn't expect JAL to be wrong) that's only because those are single-slotted flaps. Once you get to double (or more) slots, it's all fowler, all slotted. There's no other way to do it AFAIK, and they're not independently labeled. Yes, the upper part is slotted, and the lower part is fowler. But the lower part is also slotted and the upper part is also fowler. It'd be like labeling some lions as "feline" and noting others as "cats"---they're all both, and shouldn't be labeled differently.

I think that should be a "droop" aileron, not drop. Actually, it should be a slotted flaperon IMHO. (you know, do we ever see them move as ailerons at all? DYRL game maybe?) For the flaps---is that exactly how the original is written? Technically you don't have fowler flaps attached to "normal" flaps----the whole area is "fowler flaps", consisting of a primary and secondary (since these are double-slotted) flap segment.

I'm trying to think what the oldest import game I played from NCSX was. X-Men vs Street Fighter? Dark Stalkers?

It's not late 80's. It's 2000+. (*MAYBE* 1996+, but I doubt it--would have to start going squadron-by-squadron) It is basically a VF-154 plane, as only they had F-14A's that late/modified. VF-211 is possible.

The tails aren't canted out (they should be)---that could be screwing up the head-on view perception.

Revoltech Fraulein---Ranka, Sheryl, Grace, Klan... Heck, just make a new head using the Rei/Asuka plugsuit for Grace--I'd be happy.

Imports=NCSX.

The tailfins not folding flat is something I noticed right away---it's like a flaw in the design or something---like Yamato "forgot" how to get the fins to lie flat on top of each other---the 1/60 v1 does pretty well, the 1/48 does it great--but the v2 has like 10 degrees of "not flat" when the fins are folded---there needs to be an offset hinge to allow for one to lay on top of another FLAT. It's not there, or not enough. Regardless of boosters, the fins don't lay flat, and that's why they rub the antenna.

Depends on how it was printed. First try rubbing alcohol, then acetone. Point: A lot of times, if you can get it half/mostly off, but the rest just won't come---it's because the plastic surface is too rough, and the half you got off was the high points, and the half that won't come is in the "valleys" of the plastic--and it'll take a LOT of effort to get---you'll burnish the plastic before it'll come. In short---the smoother the surface, the easier/better it'll come off. Tampo over paint is usually easier to get off than tampo over bare plastic.

1. They're all like that AFAIK. Never heard of a fix. My YF-21's like that too (but even worse), and I tried everything, and never got them any less floppy. Gnats going by make them swing... ::edit:: Oh, you have a bit different problem. Mine all stay closed, but they flop around when opened. Anyways, you can probably guess the solution---clear nail polish along the edge of the doors. Works well on VF-1s to reduce door rattling. If you're really picky, you could try nail polish along the interior edge of the gear bay instead--same effect, but the door edges wouldn't be shiny. 2. Slowly and gently, force it in against the doors. It'll "set" over time and get easier with each transformation. The doors will always try to close it back up---the only thing really keeping it in place in battroid is the whole "crotch lock". I think I did do some sanding---the hinge part of the doors themselves IIRC (the top of the hinge as the plane sits on the ground, if the doors are opened). Try just a bit of that, combined with forcing the nose down, see if it'll improve to the point that it'll hold in place when locked in battroid. Don't expect it to hold in place unless FULLY transformed---it won't. 3. Never heard of that (but not surprised it's happened)---honestly don't know how you'd fix it, as that's riveted AFAIK. I can only suggest clear nail polish---somewhere somehow. Opening up the arms---I know I tried to open up the forearm for some reason, but never got the screw covers off. They're REALLY on there, I think they're super-glued. Frankly, you'll probably never get them off without totally destroying them. I've already got a crack/chip there from my attempts.

How'd you get the pins out? I plan to order replacement parts, but since they're almost as likely to break, I'd like to try to repair the originals.

But with the YF-23's inherently larger wing, stealthier and sleeker design, it doesn't face those problems quite so much.

Looking at the instructions, I'm guessing it's an "either or"---you pull them out and place as desired, can't actually move while attached. Instructions aren't very clear though IMHO.

Ooooh! <<<<<<<<< Chevrolet plans to unveil rear-drive police car Rick Kranz, Automotive News October 2, 2009 - 2:02 pm ET Chevrolet plans to announce Monday that it will offer a rear-drive police car that appears likely to be based on the Pontiac G8 sedan. Chevrolet will outline the strategy at the International Association of Chiefs of Police convention in Denver, the division said in an e-mail today. In an interview with an Australian newspaper last month, General Motors Co. CEO Fritz Henderson said the automaker is working on a car for U.S. police agencies, using a rear-drive sedan developed by Holden, GM's Australian subsidiary. Holden developed and assembled the Pontiac G8 and developed the new Chevrolet Camaro. “We've been working on a package for (U.S.) police applications. I think that's going to work,” Henderson told The Sydney Morning Herald. “We're pretty optimistic about it.” His comments were posted on the leftlanenews.com Web site. Chevrolet spokesman Brian Goebel declined to say today if the car would be based on the G8. GM plans to drop the Pontiac brand in 2010, making the 2009 model year the last for the car. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< If it's the G8, and it's not available to the pubic, I'll be so ticked.

They finally added the 2nd D to "Edwards". Now if they could just get the space in between "New" and "Edwards" it'd be perfect. Anyways--has it been confirmed the wings actually SWEEP? They don't on their 1/48 F-14. You can put the wings in multiple positions, but they don't move/sweep---you have to modify it just to allow "take it out, and re-attach it at a different angle". I wouldn't be surprised if they did something like that on the YF-19---maybe 2 whole sets of wings, one with a big chunk of the root removed, rather than having big slots through the legs.

Hard to find specs for those, but this is one of the larger ones (won't do a 747, but most anything else): http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/car/00...le/specs_page_2 Bigger one, fewer specs, but an interesting note: http://www.douglas-equipment.com/uploads/p...d765c9a18a5.pdf 112,000lbs of tractive effort exceeds that of most any steam locomotive. Though it has the huge advantage of using rubber tires on pavement, instead of slick steel tires on steel rails.

Basara really didn't use the landing gear much though---on the ship he was in battroid 99% of the time, and only used fighter mode in space. You won't see a -19Kai's gear very often.

Most of those don't count----they weren't HIS valks (as in, assigned to him). And even fewer were painted in his scheme. (TV 1S doesn't count--that's Roy's!) But Milia had a ton just for her, and her alone.

Even the heatshield's plain white... You know, I was just thinking---Milia has the most valks in M7 (and probably all of Macross). In M7 we see her VF-1J, VF-11(B?), VF-17S, and VF-22S. Even Max never had a -17.

Where's the VF-27 Grace fig?

Oh, I'd so buy a Jamming Birds VF-11D. That's even better than a VFX-2.

Boring. Now where's the VFX-2 scheme? I still think the M7 one looks like uncolored VF-11 lineart.

Like Russian jets? Need new desktop wallpaper? http://www.airliners.net/search/photo.sear...disp_order=desc