David Hingtgen

Lockheed says the JSF is not delayed, it's merely experiencing "schedule growth". In other news, it's not overweight either, it's just had some mass growth...

That's the problem--the more armor they make for the OLD one, the less likely they are to make a new VF-25 any time soon---because then there's that much more armor that's incompatible with a future one, and that they'd have to design all over again for the new VF-25. They should have stopped at the standard full armor for Ozma's. THEN make a new, improved VF-25 based on the VF-27. THEN do Tornado packs and all that--for the NEW one. That way there'd only be 2 incompatible sets--the old super and old full armor. Now we're up to like a half-dozen sets for the old one. Seriously--new movie, new VF-25. Great excuse for doing a remade toy so soon, too. Now, they're "increasing the installed base" of the old VF-25, which is counter-productive to making a new VF-25. We all KNOW there's going to be a new VF-25, but if they keep on pumping out stuff for the old one, they may wait like 5 years for the new one. The current VF-25 is going to become this generation's chunky munky-----there'll be SO many out there, with SO many variants and option packs, that no one will attempt to make a better one for a long time, because so many people have based their collections etc around it. If there was only the original Alto DX -25 with super and armor packs, then a lot of people would "switch" to a new one---but with so many people now having multiple VF-25's with multiple packs and multiple add-on weapon sets----they're less inclined to "start over" with a new VF-25, no matter how much better it may be. (of course, the real problem is that Bandai should have realized how poor their DX VF-25 was from the start---the -27 is so much better with such a similar design, it's obvious Bandai was certainly capable of doing a much better -25 than they did)

Shrek 3 utterly sucked. I doubt I'll see this one.

Currently I'm just continuing to let things sit. (actually stripped and repainted one small part that I was able, but only because the paint got a nick in it---uncured paint isn't very durable) Maybe another month will do something, but I'm thinking more like 2 or 3 months for noticeable improvement, if any will occur. (I'm pretty sure some segments have dried for over a month now) I could use a hair dryer or something and heat it up a little, but I doubt "30 secs of being warm" would do more than "3 weeks of being room temp". Can't get it hot, some parts of it are the type of plastic that'll "curl" when hot, and never un-curl. (and I don't plant to experiment/test and find out too late that a "safe" part wasn't) On a related note of a different paint---should I put a clearcoat over an acrylic paint that dries, but instantly liquifies upon contact with water? Very strange--a general rule of acrylics is that "contact with their thinners will not reliquify them"---especially when their thinner is pure water. But this one---contact with almost any moisture (other paints, saliva, etc) will make the paint just come right off. I'm hoping a lacquer clear from Tamiya would be non-aqueous enough to not affect it.

For how much 1/4 scale would cost, yeah, I'd want the flight suit. But I'd probably take a 1/6 "Sheryl's Manager" outfit one.

Want a 1/48 Milia? Mine's for sale.

The 2 emoticons were not enough to indicate the nature of my post? I'll add more:

Exactly my point. Stop using all the company resources to add parts to a toy that just plain sucks, frankly. All those weapons and armor they're spending development on---make a new VF-25 instead! Or a VF-171. Or 1/4 Grace statue...

I noticed that the Captain of Macross Quarter pronounces it like I do, so I figure I'm right, or at least close. (there's a slight variation though--sometimes he says it more like "crose" than "cross") Somewhere between Mah-cross and Mah-crose. IMHO, Mac-cross isn't that far off, and at least once Captain Wilder is very close to that. It's a whole lot better than ADV's "Muh cross!" I swear Japanese has another vowel sound of "a" that English doesn't. I think it's properly between "Ma" and "Mah"---but I can't make that sound. ::edit:: 18:40 into final ep of Frontier. Or 18:05 into ep 7. Probably also when Battle 25 fires its main gun. If the original source for the name is MacBeth---shouldn't it be more like Mc or Mac?

Not only do they have no bot modes, but their limb modes suck. You'd think that being freed from having to have robot parts would make for some pretty good limbs--but nope, they were completely hampered by having to auto-morph. I mean, if we got FEET and HANDS, and the gestalt was friggin awesome---then I might accept botless limb components. (heck, canonically, that's how Piranacon is in Japan). But no, we get sucky gestalts with quasi-claws and "a tank standing on end" for a foot... Seriously, if they took out the auto-morph gimmick, gave us a scout pricepoint for the limbs, and THEN said "limb mode only"----then we could have had a really awesome gestalt. But being TINY, with 100% auto-morph transformations just ruined them.

Well, season 2's over. Previous ep was better I think.

'shopped! PS---boattail is chined?

Muh cross!

Already posted/linked in the Airplane thread. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...st&p=843505

Good. Because in SF3, Ibuki was just too handicapped--her speed just didn't make up for the COMBINED effects of taking so much damage while dealing out so little. (I think it was her low damage dealt more than anything---her 6 hit combos were about equal to a single roundhouse from Ryu...)

We've got another person just now starting the series? It *is* Gubaba all over again! The short version---the people who definitely can't be cylons are, and those who obviously are, aren't! Except for those who are.

Is Ibuki hampered by "does no damage, takes double" like she was in SF3?

The Ultimate Neo-Perfect edition will have lead-coated discs though, for a hefty diecast feel.

OK, exact specifics: Paint: Apple Barrel Gloss "Real Green" Thinned (quite a bit) with MM acryl thinner (seemed to work well, and the water in this town is often so bad it's cloudy, so I never thin with water) Added a bit of Liquitex Flo-Aid Added a touch of black (I honestly don't remember which, had to be either Testors Acryl or Pollyscale Acrylic--which are nigh-identical formulas) Applied over: Blackened metal (likely plated brass), bare steel wire, bare plastic, factory-painted plastic. It's a model locomotive, so I honestly don't know what the exact plastic or paint is. Factory paint is very durable and very glossy though, I can tell you that. Plastic is likely styrene, a fairly hard formulation. No primer, as frankly that would have added yet more layers and it was hard enough to paint the little details. (does anyone ever brush-paint primer prior to painting small details etc?) I have noticed/discovered that while it has dried "2nd-least-tacky" on the metal parts (railings/piping---fine steel wire mostly), it really hasn't adhered to the metal at all--it's really just a coating, adhering to itself 360 around the wire. It has totally dried on the areas where it was applied over bare plastic, factory green paint or factory black paint, but is slightly tacky where it was applied over factory silver paint. However, where it was applied over factory green paint, where the factory paint was applied over "not so hard" plastic(PE?)--it's very tacky.

Hey, I watched the whole of M7 the first time via .rm files. Took 2 or 3 days of overnight FTP'ing to get each one. (our AOL line then was so bad a 56K modem was lucky to get 14K really, and I think I had a 33.6 modem then---9K normal transfer rate IIRC)

Long story short, I painted something with "cheap craft paint" like you find at Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc (it was a PERFECT match and had the same amount of gloss so I wanted to use it) and it just doesn't seem to fully dry. It's a fairly glossy paint, and I did put 6 or so layers to cover (I thinned it a lot and it's quite translucent now) and while it's not as bad as "enamel over rubber" which will rub right off on your fingers even after months, it is still "tacky" after a couple weeks. It's not going to rub off, but it does lose its gloss after repeated handling, and kinda attracts dust etc. I can't figure out why some areas dried and some didn't, it doesn't seem directly related to what was underneath the paint. Stripping/repainting is NOT an option. I can either just leave it alone, or add something to it. Should I just let it dry for like, a year, and hope it'll fully harden some day? Could I put a clearcoat over it and hope the clearcoat dries hard? Would said clearcoat screw up the underlying layer?

Please post reviews/notes on the Mari fig, and how she compares to the previous Rei/Asuka figs.

'cept that, not a single person believes the laptop excuse for that particular incident.

The color used on the edges is unknown, even ARC's resident Raptor pilot doesn't know AFAIK. 36375 is the the most common one I've seen listed, I'd probably go with something warmer. 36440? 36307?

Why not just use a Care Bear?