David Hingtgen

Muh cross!

Already posted/linked in the Airplane thread. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...st&p=843505

Good. Because in SF3, Ibuki was just too handicapped--her speed just didn't make up for the COMBINED effects of taking so much damage while dealing out so little. (I think it was her low damage dealt more than anything---her 6 hit combos were about equal to a single roundhouse from Ryu...)

We've got another person just now starting the series? It *is* Gubaba all over again! The short version---the people who definitely can't be cylons are, and those who obviously are, aren't! Except for those who are.

Is Ibuki hampered by "does no damage, takes double" like she was in SF3?

The Ultimate Neo-Perfect edition will have lead-coated discs though, for a hefty diecast feel.

OK, exact specifics: Paint: Apple Barrel Gloss "Real Green" Thinned (quite a bit) with MM acryl thinner (seemed to work well, and the water in this town is often so bad it's cloudy, so I never thin with water) Added a bit of Liquitex Flo-Aid Added a touch of black (I honestly don't remember which, had to be either Testors Acryl or Pollyscale Acrylic--which are nigh-identical formulas) Applied over: Blackened metal (likely plated brass), bare steel wire, bare plastic, factory-painted plastic. It's a model locomotive, so I honestly don't know what the exact plastic or paint is. Factory paint is very durable and very glossy though, I can tell you that. Plastic is likely styrene, a fairly hard formulation. No primer, as frankly that would have added yet more layers and it was hard enough to paint the little details. (does anyone ever brush-paint primer prior to painting small details etc?) I have noticed/discovered that while it has dried "2nd-least-tacky" on the metal parts (railings/piping---fine steel wire mostly), it really hasn't adhered to the metal at all--it's really just a coating, adhering to itself 360 around the wire. It has totally dried on the areas where it was applied over bare plastic, factory green paint or factory black paint, but is slightly tacky where it was applied over factory silver paint. However, where it was applied over factory green paint, where the factory paint was applied over "not so hard" plastic(PE?)--it's very tacky.

Hey, I watched the whole of M7 the first time via .rm files. Took 2 or 3 days of overnight FTP'ing to get each one. (our AOL line then was so bad a 56K modem was lucky to get 14K really, and I think I had a 33.6 modem then---9K normal transfer rate IIRC)

Long story short, I painted something with "cheap craft paint" like you find at Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc (it was a PERFECT match and had the same amount of gloss so I wanted to use it) and it just doesn't seem to fully dry. It's a fairly glossy paint, and I did put 6 or so layers to cover (I thinned it a lot and it's quite translucent now) and while it's not as bad as "enamel over rubber" which will rub right off on your fingers even after months, it is still "tacky" after a couple weeks. It's not going to rub off, but it does lose its gloss after repeated handling, and kinda attracts dust etc. I can't figure out why some areas dried and some didn't, it doesn't seem directly related to what was underneath the paint. Stripping/repainting is NOT an option. I can either just leave it alone, or add something to it. Should I just let it dry for like, a year, and hope it'll fully harden some day? Could I put a clearcoat over it and hope the clearcoat dries hard? Would said clearcoat screw up the underlying layer?

Please post reviews/notes on the Mari fig, and how she compares to the previous Rei/Asuka figs.

'cept that, not a single person believes the laptop excuse for that particular incident.

The color used on the edges is unknown, even ARC's resident Raptor pilot doesn't know AFAIK. 36375 is the the most common one I've seen listed, I'd probably go with something warmer. 36440? 36307?

Why not just use a Care Bear?

Grace's VF-27 is unique, and has the same head as Brera's. The DX toy is correct for Grace's. Other green ones have the different head.

They skipped Grace! (and Cathy). (I still think the answer to Grace's is "variable")

More like, THE* scheme: http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig09/10098636t3.jpg http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig09/10098636t2.jpg (interesting in that all of those are marked as Commander's planes--none are typical line jets) Also, a zillion pics at Airliners.net: http://www.airliners.net/search/photo.sear...umbnails=noinfo (I'm sure at least a few people will find new wallpaper from that link) *well, there's always the coral-pink one: http://www.airliners.net/photo/USA---Air/L...-22A/1182411/L/

Unsettling questions? I still want a good answer to "how does she change her appearance when meeting with Leon Mishima?" (has that ever been asked?)

Remko---aww, you should try to get Grace's green one! Green's better! (and has a better-looking pilot, too) http://p-bandai.jp/tamashiiwebshouten/item-1000004910/

I'm not sure if this has been posted before, but here's the live webcam for the Large Hadron Collider: http://www.cyriak.co.uk/lhc/lhc-webcams.html

They could make MP HotRod, and call it "cause of dead Prime".

Seconded. Hers was awesome.

The look of the Old Repubic is well-established by this point. If it doesn't look realistic, it won't look like the canon. Frankly, "the past" will never have to worry about aging. Old is old, classic is classic. It's "portraying the future" that has to worry about how it'll age.

First thing you gotta do is mod the instructions: (not mine, but so cool I had to post it)

Re: red Closest thing to Milia's in the real world:

"Soundtrack disconnect" seems more common lately in games of all type. Music may be GOOD, it just doesn't seem to be "correct". I still think FF9 has the best "song fits the situation" of any FF.