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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. David Hingtgen
    Anyone interested in some Combiner wars figs? Just really don't "feel the need to keep 'em" but also don't feel like ebaying them. Would like to just dump them all as a lot, cheap: Trailbreaker, Reprolabeled. Slug/Slag, Reprolabeled Swoop Dreadwind Dragstrip (inked in a few of his molded-in-rivets, like 6 of them, barely noticeable) Can also toss in a Repolabeled and custom-repainted Elita one (a lot of red and white bits repainted coral-pink), and a Moonracer with a damaged-paint fender Might sell as a second lot, if they're worth anything: Groove, Reprolabeled Air Raid Blades, Reprolabeled Slingshot, Reprolabeled Sky Lynx, Reprolabeled
  2. David Hingtgen
    I've used the 1mm on hose clamps on model cars.
  3. David Hingtgen
    Hmmn---Citadel seems to change their formula so often, each batch is like a whole new brand of paint. I've never bought any of their airbrush colors though, and certainly never hand-brushed them. (Ironically, that seems to work better for Vallejo---their regular colors are so thick, that the 'pre-thinned' "model air" colors are still more like hand-brush consistency, than airbrush consistency---but I've only had like 2 colors to experiment with that way)
  4. David Hingtgen
    Yes, Molotow is a whole 'nother level for chrome, but I reserve it for truly shiny bits/special stuff. Just "a nice smooth regular silver that's neither glittery nor clumps" is what I'm really looking for right now. PS----I didn't specify, but I'm pretty much only looking for acrylics. I just can't deal with enamels etc 95% of the time.
  5. David Hingtgen
    I keep hoping the pile of Monstructors will someday hit super-low prices during Black Friday, like Quantron often does. I'd like a Monstructor, and that's the only one--but that version wasn't that great to start with. (combined mode looks pretty good, and that is the important mode---but the individual bots and alt-modes are pretty poor, and of course there's no pretender shells---you're basically buying an actionmaster at this point) Plus it commits the cardinal sin of "nowhere to put insignias".
  6. David Hingtgen
    Quick poll/opinion: What's the best paint for hand-brushing basic black and silver? No matter what you're modeling, there's going to be "small black bits" and "small silver bits" that you're going to paint by hand. I honestly really liked Pollyscale (best silver ever!!!) but that's long-gone. Not real fond of Tamiya. Hate Vallejo in my experience. (thick, and can't directly brush out of a bottle...)
  7. David Hingtgen
    The Callisto eps were some of the best.
  8. David Hingtgen
    Yeah, for the shoulder decals on the VF-25 kit, you're going to need to slit the stripes at the corners, AND use the strongest decal set you can find. Thankfully most of the other decals are a lot easier.
  9. David Hingtgen
    Chopper better come with some serious accessories to warrant his price. Of course, pretty sure "6-inch" (2-inch) Yoda costs the same as 6-inch Luke...
  10. David Hingtgen
    I gotta say, I think an upscaled/tweaked (with PAINT!!!!) Sentinel Prime could be amazing. It's so close, but still just looks "good" to me. "Everything is gunmetal grey" just takes so much away from it. It should have silver, grey, and black bits. And have the back end painted. And a few more bits fold away or fold out, etc. Hate to say it, but I'm waiting for the KO. (as in, assuming it gets heavily tweaked like a lot of Movie Primes are---bigger alone isn't nearly enough)
  11. David Hingtgen
    AGP! I had one of those! 7600GT I think...
  12. David Hingtgen
    How much is the parabolic 727? Probably too much, but I'd love one last 727 flight... May have to settle for driving a Lambo or something...
  13. David Hingtgen
    Interesting comparison---I didn't know Ozma's were a shade darker/bluer. Also, I suspected but wasn't sure until now that the CF ones had the same "inverted" color-pattern as Michael's. (really only noticeable on hip and chest pieces, but also present on the booster tips)
  14. David Hingtgen
    Do Luca's super parts come with two, for a spare?
  15. David Hingtgen
    I think it works super-well being the head-laser. I'd argue it's more kept ON its head, than in it. A VF-1J could dual-wield! A VF-1S would have 4, and maybe wield the extra pair tonfa-style like the Unicorn Gundam...
  16. David Hingtgen
    I especially like that the Arcadia and Yamato are docked to the Macross, instead of Daedalus and Prometheus. Now where I have heard of that combo (Yamato/Arcadia/Macross) before...?
  17. David Hingtgen
    Yeah, blue plastic yellows (greens!) quite a bit, it's among the worst colors after white. I don't think I've ever seen red turn orange, though.
  18. David Hingtgen
    Missiles aren't as cool as the Angel Birds' beamsaber: THAT is the add-on we need from Bandai for a 1/48 VF-1A...
  19. David Hingtgen
    I thought Luca only had the little probe-thingy on one of the boosters, not both?
  20. David Hingtgen
    Yeah, it seems odd that they went to the effort to even make them adjustable with click-hinges, but only let them move like 3 degrees in either direction...
  21. David Hingtgen
    Just make the show "Alice's Adventures in Gothamland". Might actually be more interesting...
  22. David Hingtgen
    I've never tried to polish a model's clear-coat actually, I usually just polish the raw gloss color-coat, for model cars etc.
  23. David Hingtgen
    Is this a factory gloss coat, like a HiRM Gundam? Or like from a spray-can? (the factory coatings are SUPER high glossy, whereas spray cans rarely are). Tamiya polishing is not a 'quick and easy' thing in my experience. It'll take a while. "If it doesn't strain your hand/arm muscles, then it's not really doing anything". You gotta press and rub, not just "wipe", even more so than "polishing a real car" IMHO. For "reviving raw plastic", I would much more recommend Novus #2. It is plastic polish, not paint polish, and is designed (and is quite good at) removing scratches from plastic bits. I've even used it on old Legos.
  24. David Hingtgen
    Tamiya polishing compound, even the "coarse" is intended mainly for model cars as a final/near-final step----it'll make the spot way too shiny. I'd go with "fine grit sandpaper" etc, to try to match the factory sheen.
  25. David Hingtgen
    I had to put tons of nail polish in the joints, but my -29 now has stiff wing-rotation even with super parts attached.
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