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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. David Hingtgen
    Does it light-up uninstalled? As in, does everything work fine right up until "that last step of sealing it inside" or has it never lit up in the first place?
  2. David Hingtgen
    20 ish hours for a good run in ME1. Good as in, doing most things, but not everything. ME2 can vary a lot depending on if you go for upgrades and loyalty missions, but it is definitely longer. But ME1 has MUCH better plot IMHO, and actually sets the stage for ME3 far more than ME2 did. Plot-wise, ME2 is darn-near a side-story IMHO. It's the collectors, not the reapers.
  3. David Hingtgen
    F-22, doing, well, F-22 stuff: http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=ee3_1329082051
  4. David Hingtgen
    Googling pics, it looks like they're the same shade of grey as the engine nozzles. So go see what matches.
  5. David Hingtgen
    And I just got done painting all the missing bits etc on my green -27....
  6. David Hingtgen
    That was my thought---last ditch effort to take down as many people with him as he could----thus, they immediately sliced the arms off to prevent that scenario.
  7. David Hingtgen
    From the multiple Bulkhead toys the past few years, we know Hasbro knows how to make very bulky bots with intricate transformations, so that doesn't explain FoC Bruticus.
  8. David Hingtgen
    If they'd only tweak it and make a flightsuit Grace version.... (hey, that body looks more like Grace's than Sheryl's IMHO)
  9. David Hingtgen
    Slightly OT question----in the first pic, the two big obvious screws----how tight should they be, as in, from the factory? My VF-1S seems to be quite loose there, as in the shoulder can kinda flop around 1-2mm in every direction with no resistance there in battroid mode. I honestly can't remember if that's how it was, or only after I replaced my hinges (official Yamato ones from Graham). I'd have to tighten them WAY more to "hold them down" I think but then it'd also be much harder to lift-n-swing the hinges out 180 degrees to transform. I tightened them down some more recently, but it seemed to have little/no effect. I don't really want to try to "tighten as much as I possibly can" for fear of damaging them. It's just something I don't ever recall see being mentioned about the v2. In short: In battroid mode, is the hinge itself supposed to kinda flop around? Just a small amount, but easily? The arm/shoulder armor is nice and stiff on the balljoint, and the metal pin joint is good, but the hinge assembly itself moves around freely at that screw/plastic ring.
  10. David Hingtgen
    Bandai also got his approval for the v1 DX VF-25. And Yamato got his approval for "Shin's" low-vis VF-0, except for the one that really was Shin's soon thereafter. Anyways---I do think the black markings are correct/likely. It's VERY similar to the "skunk stripe" pattern many F-14's have. And we all know how people (even the animators) love to have F-14-based markings on their VF-1's. Roy's valk wouldn't look like it does without the Jolly Rogers...
  11. David Hingtgen
    I'd buy the VF-11 in that scheme. Seriously---was Yamato so burned by the VF-11 they won't even do repaints? I'm betting even the most complex repaint is cheaper than the cheapest new molding of a head or something.
  12. David Hingtgen
    Most every transforming toy will have identical pins and hinges----practice on one of those first, THEN attempt a pin-removal on an expensive out-of-production valk. Any Transformer™ will do fine for practice. Personally I sacrificed a BM Silverbolt to learn pin-removal.
  13. David Hingtgen
    I believe it's supposed to be the Missouri. (I'd have used the Kentucky, as it was actually built but not finished---would have worked very well in an alternate history) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Kentucky_(BB-66)
  14. David Hingtgen
    Seems FoC Bruticus is doing the "any limb can be any position" thing. THAT right there is a massive fail IMHO. Would explain a lot, too. If they were "dedicated", they'd probaby be better. IMHO.
  15. David Hingtgen
    Please re-release Milia's 1J with a baby pod, just so I can get her 1J...
  16. David Hingtgen
    Just saw the "roaring head" 6in classic Lion-O. I think I may actually prefer that sculpt. Did they change the plastic the sword's made of? Looked a lot less bendy in-package. (also, several 6in Cheetaras---she still HTF?)
  17. David Hingtgen
    Diecast feet!
  18. David Hingtgen
    Could it be any more pink? I mean, most people would at least have left the TIRES black or something...
  19. David Hingtgen
    Is Go-Lion not very popular in Japan? If is is popular---why is there no modern figure from any of the major Japanese toy companies? All we get are pathetic re-hashes of existing figs from Mattel and Toynami----same toy we've had for the past 30 years, just with a few gimmicks added in (being it probe-keys or a few balljoints) . Somebody, somewhere, has to be able to figure out how to do a better SCULPT. Red and Green lions are always my reference point---they usually look pathetic in lion mode, and are often 50% joint-bits in arm mode.
  20. David Hingtgen
    Fin/wing angles still all wrong from head-on. Tell 'em Graham! (canards and wings should be parallel, ventral fins and tailfins should be aligned with each other)
  21. David Hingtgen
    EXO suggested 3D printing as well. The shape is simple, basically a rod stuck to a triangle. And 1 rivet detail and 1 depression. I'll check into epoxy putty molding, too.
  22. David Hingtgen
    Maybe a bit OT, but I have a model train which has lost a part, and there's basically no way to get a replacement. However, there are several copies of this part on it, so I just need another one of them----is there any chance someone here who does resin casting would be willing to copy this part for me? Frankly I do not want to go through the expense and trial-n-error of learning resin casting myself just for a single little part. It'd probably end up costing half again what I paid for the model in the first place. But I'm more than willing to pay someone who aready knows what they're doing for their time/materials cost. It's just a small little piece, basically an "L" about 1cm long.
  23. David Hingtgen
    Michael's is the odd one out. A lot of the smaller details are "opposite" of the others, even Luca's. Asides from the overall green color, Luca's has very similar patterns/details to Ozma/Alto. Looking at the decal sheets for the model kit's boosters clearly show this---Michael's will always "break the pattern" and not be purely a blue color swap compared to the other 3---it'll either reverse the colors, or something.
  24. David Hingtgen
    I never unnecessarily remove the disc from any system. If there's nothing else to play at the moment, and it's a good long RPG, a single disc can remain in for weeks. Heck, I think my Dreamcast spent like a year with Soul Calibur 1 inside it. (wanted to play it again, and never took it out or played anything else for a long while--kind of forgot about it) My Gamecube spends most of its time with the GBA player disc inside. (yes, I play Gameboy games on a 32in HD screen---nyah!)
  25. David Hingtgen
    Bruticus Maximus is expensive because he's the more "realistically colored" version of the mold, and the one intended for FP Bruticus. I always held off on Crossfire due to the parts not matching my Energon Barricade, figuring they'd do the obvious and re-release them with parts etc colored to match that one. Kind of surprised they didn't, but far more surprised that the re-release had no combiner parts at all!
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