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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. I'd buy one just to build for the fun of it. Probably TV version Hikaru---the simplest scheme with the fewest parts that could have paint/decal scratching. Though a DYRL scheme would be only slightly more complex.
  2. If you like fighter mode, you owe it to yourself to get a v2.
  3. Burma has agreed to allow the buried Spitfires to be excavated--work could start in just days: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/oct/17/spitfire-planes-burma-excavation
  4. I wish Yamato would do a scheme something like this on their VF-4, I'd buy it in an instant. (I'd add a touch more white though) (this is much better than her "official" VF-4 scheme in M3---that one was almost monochrome)
  5. David Hingtgen

    DX VF-25G

    When injected plastic parts come out of a mold, they're still warm. Time is money, so they are only allowed to cool JUST enough to hold their shape when they're popped out, so as to get ready for the next batch as soon as possible. And the technology/timing isn't perfect (even Bandai gets flow-marks in their best and newest kits, which is purely a heat-distribution issue) The long skinny wing parts are of course the most-influenced by this process, so even 1 degree or 1 second can make the difference for whether they will warp when pulled out of the mold. Thicker square parts are much more tolerant.
  6. I'd buy a non-canon scheme just to have a VF-4, if said scheme were awesome. (that means not woodland camo or something like some of Yamato's limited editions)
  7. That kind of defeats the point of buying a kit IMHO. "Here's a 500-piece kit, with all the interesting/fun bits already done" I'd rather have the armor plates or something already done. The mechanisms are the main appeal.
  8. That'd be fine--just not GREY AND BLUE like every other version tends to be.
  9. Half the time it's someone with a virus-infested sig. They allow massively complex sigs over there, and that's the result.
  10. That kit (which is so bought) could have nigh-perfect color molding as the scheme is so simple and basically divided along the joint lines. I just hope Bandai goes with WHITE and BLACK, and not "light grey and navy blue" as they are so fond of. I do not want to have to repaint every square inch just to get the storm trooper look it should...
  11. While DYRL schemes etc should work well, Max and Milia etc are not going to do well color-wise----they'd require massive amounts of paint and/or decals. (no, don't even think about Bandai doing PG-level color-molding and separation)
  12. That's still cheaper than current VF-25F/S/YF-29 prices...
  13. Asides from AVAILABILITY TO PURCHASE.
  14. Checking the Chinese forums, it looks to me like part of Sideswipe's cost is that he is indeed, entirely painted red. Red paint over red plastic, but he is painted "Lambo red" for an exact match and no "cheap translucent red plastic" issues. A few areas are unpainted (bottom of car, collar-bone area) but plenty of not-car-body parts are painted, like the shoulders. Makes me wonder if an unpainted US release would actually be better, parts-fit-wise and chipping-wise...
  15. A small bit of hope---he's bigger than classics/henkei:
  16. We all knew MP Sideswipe was small, but he's TINY: Remind me again why I'm paying 6x what that Deluxe BB costs?
  17. David Hingtgen

    DX VF-25G

    Fixed.
  18. The rage/elation that'd be felt if a green-canopied version was a Tamashii exclusive....
  19. If you're not uber-picky about shades of blue/black/silver like I am, and can ignore/remove/sticker over the stupid markings, it should be awesome.
  20. I had mentioned that earlier---that Jetfire was a better SR-71. If you take a good look though---I think this is a better SR-71, than Phantom is an F-4. From above, that's REALLY not an F-4's profile. Eagle's not much better---check tailfins and canopy. (wings are much better than Phantom's though)
  21. The M-21-inspired scheme is better IMHO as it's more or less a real Blackbird scheme: Still---the "wings" on the sides of Sivlerbolt's chest shield were the most distinctive part of Superion's chest---and that's the one part they're not using! (my mentally-envisioned XB-70 version uses the canards as hip armor-flaps for combined mode)
  22. VF-2's final CAG I think was two-tone 35237/36320 and what I'd recommend for Shin's, but the line birds (at least some) were clearly "by the book" TPS. (I've never been able to be certain of their CAG's final scheme, and that irks me because there's a zillion photos of it--it's just so splotchy you can't make sense of it) VF-103's final CAG and CO were fairly close to standard TPS but not quite. Clearly three-tone though. VF-154 often tweaked things a bit but could usually be counted on to be three-tone. Really, on an F-14, it's the lightest belly color (36375) that is often "lost/missed". Best bet is to look at the bottom of the nosecone. Due to the shadow of the wing gloves and tailplanes, it's almost impossible to tell "light ghost grey in shadow" from "dark ghost grey in normal lighting". On many planes it is SUBTLE. I mean, I have literally been at arm's length from a clean, washed, Super Hornet, and it can be hard to find the 36320/36375 separation line. Sometimes they really spray the borders WIDE to blend the two colors. But the 35237 top surface color on an F-14 is usually easy to spot, since it's so much more blue-green than the other colors. PS----all missiles and drop tanks are 36375. That goes for pretty much the entire US military. F-16's and Harriers are the only exception off the top of my head.
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