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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. David Hingtgen
    Man, I really wish there was a pack-less, missile-less option. Would have cut the price and frustration by a lot.
  2. David Hingtgen
    I think the odds are decent, but wouldnt count on it. (As in, I'm not selling mine just yet, as I may never get a replacement.)
  3. David Hingtgen
    On my phone at least, that is exactly what color the final production YF-19 is. (Overall----the grey is much less blue)
  4. David Hingtgen
    Mine was just a bit of glue in the "crease" at the front of the well, but even 1mm is enough to get in the flap's way. I had to get creative to get at it----carefully positioning the head so I could get a tool in between the chin and neck-base, I used a knife-file and a very skinny sanding stick to get in from the side. Can take a pic if needed later to re-create the scenario.Really though, sanding the underside of the front edge of the flap may be easier, depending on how much and where the glue is.
  5. David Hingtgen
    Maybe it's variable---the head is perfect on mine. Only joint I'd consider as such. (though it's attached slightly crooked I think, which I am working on correcting---but I don't think I can disassemble the neck area)
  6. David Hingtgen
    First decent photo of alt mode. Note holes in front of trailer---weren't on the CAD, but are probably an alternate location to mount the missile-launchers.
  7. David Hingtgen
    Ok, good news (yay!): Non-closing chest flap is 98% fixed. It was mostly excess glue, at the front of the "well" where that flap lies. Very hard to sand down in there, but got it darn-near flush now. (I did sand a little around the hinges themselves--that improved both flaps a smidge) Loose shoulder: The main screw IS accessible, just barely---need a very skinny screwdriver, and to swing the shoulders back into fighter mode position (while chest is raised for battroid mode). You can then sorta access the screw from the front, and get just enough of the tip in at the angle its forced into, to tighten the screw. Bad news: The Arcadia YF-19 is glued, everywhere. The shoulder armor alone is like 5 pieces. Many many small areas (especially painted/colored trim areas) are glued on. You'll note there are practically no external screw-holes---nor screw plugs! Because large segments/panels are glued on over the whole area. Basically, it's almost like there's an "inner frame" that is screwed together, then the outer beige plastic "shell" parts are glued onto that frame. Thus, new screw-holes nor visible screw-hole-plugs. Torso and shoulders especially are like this. But this makes it almost impossible to disassemble. The hips and nose are the only areas that's really accessible. PS---the big screws on the sides of the spine do nothing. Completely removing them---it's as super-tight as ever. (I was hoping to loosen it). Really, overall, the YF-19's tightness is "opposite of how it should be". Transformation joints are rock hard, and difficult to force into position (even when you know exactly where and how it moves---like the GERWALK-thigh click-joint, or the spine-chest joint). But "posing" joints like shoulders and hip-A-stance are loose.
  8. David Hingtgen
    Front tips of tailfins, tips of toes, or somewhere else?
  9. David Hingtgen
    Left shoulder on mine is super loose. Haven't figured out how to open anything up yet though---the "plugs" on top of the shoulder lead to nothing, there's nothing on the underside. I'm thinking maybe the two screws near the spine will open up the torso, revealing something. The arm is basically un-poseable/un-usable as it is. Anyways, transformation notes: (maybe these bits are all common to the VF-19F/S, but it was all new to me) Page 9, step 17---don't try to force the sliding bicep cover down too far. It doesn't lock, and you can stress it if you try to make it go ALL the way down. Page 11, step 6. The metal hinge bar can slide in and out of the nosecone. It's stiff. Needs to be "retracted" into nosecone for battroid mode. The instructions look like they're point out the angle the bar needs to be pivoted to---that is secondary. Also, watch the back end of the bottom half of the nose--it's very easy to "smoosh" the corners, right at the edge of the tampo. (ask how I know) (of course, if the photo wasn't taken at a funky angle and they showed what they actually want, it'd have helped a lot--instead of highlighting some worthless intermediate position) It really looks like they want you to "tuck" the rear of the nose-bottom-half into the upper half--there's even slots/gaps there----don't! Page 13, step 12---"the big step". Open up the "GERWALK-spine thrusters" piece. Won't clear the cockpit otherwise, and it's way too stiff to move out of the way on its own. Page 14, step 16/17. The upper chest is quite flexible. This is how it fits over the nosecone and locks the torso in place. Works much better to "spread" the chest apart to get it over the nose, than to "force" the chest down around the nose. Page 15, step 20. Unlocking the wing roots. Don't move the wingroots--the arrow is showing to pivot the legs at the lower intake. It's like getting a GERWALK A-stance, but using a joint at the intake rather than at the thigh. Page 16, step 24-2. There are 2 steps to the "collapsing" of the lower leg. Be sure to push it in until you get both "notches" of "shortening". Miscellaneous cockpit note: the black section slides forward more than it pivots forward/down. "Pushing straight down" like on the previous YF-19 isn't going to move it. Also, the little black tab to pop it back up---pressing that tab in until it's flush isn't enough---poke something in to press it in enough make it recessed like a half-millimeter. That'll get the front edges of the nose and canopy flush/aligned, and I think it may be part of why/how the top/bottom of the nose halves do or don't close fully.
  10. David Hingtgen
    I had NO tape on mine besides what was holding the instruction manual in place, so really, you can open it up and swoosh it around, put it back in---and it's still MISB. Sold my 1/72 to fund the 1/60. Sold the 1/60 to fund the v2 1/60. I've owned 3 YF-21's and 2 VF-11's---but none at the moment. I sell old valks to buy new ones, but never have that many at a time. Never get 100% of my money back of course, but I think of the loss as a "long-term rental fee".
  11. David Hingtgen
    Transforming toy robot figures that closely resemble copyrighted characters that Hasbro designed, yet are not made by Hasbro/Takara. They are not KO's as they do not copy any existing toy---they are made from scratch. Just not by Hasbro. A good recent example is "Scoria". It's a transforming robot Triceratops, but is definitely NOT "Dinobot Slag". Oh no. http://www.capturedprey.com/store/fanstoys_ft04_scoria?keyword=scoria
  12. David Hingtgen
    CapturedPrey.com, ToyDojo.com, TheChosenPrime.com, LunarToyStore.com
  13. David Hingtgen
    Mmmmn, yes: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN989578/Gun (still, not an MG...)
  14. David Hingtgen
    I would. That's inexcusable---and sure doesn't look like shipping damage. That's far more than some little tab getting bent. I think there's simply a lack of clearance around the hinge. I found that if I put the extra neck-cover piece on, I can force the flap down into place and it'll hold--and cause a very tiny stress mark/crack as well just forward of the hinge. The flap itself is simply too big. But I have to figure out how to remove it to sand it in there. I'm worried the area I need to open up, is glued, not screwed.
  15. David Hingtgen
    Personal request, but if anyone who has like 4-6 Altos and keeps some of then permanently in armor or battroid etc----would much appreciate if you would be willing to swap out a pristine ventral fin for my chipped-modex-number-paint one. I keep my Alto in "naked fighter" more than anything else----but that's the only time you see the ventral fins' numbers.
  16. David Hingtgen
    Oh yeah---retractable neck cover----just as annoying as the previous one----does it "lock" into an extended position? I swear the thing is spring-loaded to pull back up inside the head. I once got it to what I figured was 90% extended----then it zipped back up in the head again. Haven't been able to get it that far out again since.
  17. David Hingtgen
    No reviewer ever does everything perfect. I've seen many times where like 3 people will all get 90-95% of it, but all forget something different. I will often watch Peaugh, optibotimus, baltmatrix, vangelus, but rarely find that just one will cover everything.
  18. David Hingtgen
    Don't think it's the head, as I put the head/slider into battroid mode position to get it completely out of the way and it made no difference----the flap doesn't seem to be touching anything anywhere. Same way that a V1 and V2 1/60 VF-1 are.
  19. David Hingtgen
    OK, got mine, just been fiddling around with it a bit in fighter mode before really trying anything, but one thing sticks out so far (literally): Those flaps on either side of the head. One (right side) won't go down all the way. Sticks up a bit in fighter mode. Bugs the heck out of me, being a fighter-mode guy. Anyone else encounter this? Can't figure out WHY it won't go down yet--doesn't hit anything that I can see, no mold flash etc. Doesn't seem to be pinned in so shouldn't be a mis-aligned pin. And wow--the panel lines ARE fine. Don't know how well they'd work for a wash, as they are so shallow. Overall color is---odd, IMHO. There is absolutely no warmth to it. It's almost a very pale greenish tan. Like weathered concrete or something. It's a cold, dull color.
  20. David Hingtgen
    It's a cost thing. The grey stripes wouldn't affect total cost by any meaningful amount. But that big tray of missiles is surely 5000+ yen. Would rather have a nice new fold booster if they're going to include expensive accessories. Especially since they gave fold booster mounts. If it's going to increase the cost significantly, it'd better be something "iconic". True, the grey stripes aren't that important--but they also wouldn't make you pay an extra 50 bucks if they were included and you didn't really want them.
  21. David Hingtgen
    Am I the only one who doesn't ever watch emgo's reviews, because of the stupid intros?
  22. David Hingtgen
    They must be very faint--I've been looking at all the pics I can and haven't seen them yet.
  23. David Hingtgen
    How I wish the availability of "Plum Crazy" ever coincided with me being able to get a car. I want it sheerly to have "Decepticon purple".
  24. David Hingtgen
    I think it's using a Gouf-hand as a forearm-mounted cannon. (Vs simply having a regular forearm-mounted cannon). Maximum Gouf! Anyways----the next series should be a prequel! Follow Ral's early days! Start off with Gouf Amazing, then Gouf Mind-blowing, and finally upgrade into the Un-Goufing-believable! (or alternately, Unbe-fouGing-lievable) Works better if you pronounce Gouf like Bright Noah does in the dub (Guff, instead of Goof)
  25. David Hingtgen
    Wait a minute---did they not even scribe in the lines for the grey markings on the upper intakes?!?! It would have been an easy five-minute job to paint them if so, (they're on the CAD drawings!), but if they're not molded in at all---that'd be a darn difficult thing to mask with symmetrical angles on each side, etc. (plus it'd be 10x more likely to scrape/scratch off over time, vs having a nice recessed panel line surroundin the edges)
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