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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. The Grimlock toys all suffer from various degrees of suckage. As do most of the vehicles. But all the other dinobots--range from good to great. Get some dinos (that aren't Grimlock) and that should change your mind. It's very clear all the effort/love went into the deluxe-class dino toys. (and there's no deluxe Grimlock, so...) No kid is going to ask for the Bugatti, when there's a BRIGHT RED MECHA-SPINOSAURUS on the shelf..
  2. Saw it, thought Godzilla was better. Yes, any scene with Quicksilver is *awesome*. But there's only 2 of them. Doesn't make the movie awesome overall. Really, just give me a Quicksilver-Scarlet Witch-Fassbenderneto movie next. It'd be awesome. Family-comedy-drama-politi-thriller.
  3. David Hingtgen

    1/48 dead?

    I was thinking 1/32 too... If they really want to "go big" and have an all-new "premium, high-end iconic VF-1"---a 1/48 re-hash may not be enough. Or, since 1/60 isn't really used by anything else but valks, there's no need to do a "standard" scale---could do something like 1/40 so it's not QUITE so big/expensive, but still noticeably larger than the 1/48. 1/35 is certainly an option, that's tank/diorama/heli scale. And also still not *quite* so big as 1/32. :;edit::: 1/43 scale? Then you can have car dioramas etc for a sense of scale. Tons of 1/43 vehicles out there. If anyone's got a 1/32 F/A-18 Hornet, that's about how big a 1/32 VF-1 would be. And trust me, that is a LOT of plastic and shelf space! I should photograph some of its parts next to some valks just to show people...
  4. My left intake cover never went in totally flush until I thinned the tab a bit, now it's nice and seamless like the other one. Left nosegear door is similar to my -25 Alto's---you can get it to stay put, but you have to fiddle with it and get it JUST right to hold the proper position. Seems to be an inherent issue with the -25 family, as it seems lots of them have "left nosegear door positioning" issues. It also likes to "twist" sideways a bit when opened. On a semi-related note, I've switched to using black paint instead of lining pens----this release/plastic just repels ink it seems. I think it may be why the foot-paint scrapes easily too. It's the -27 nose-stripe all over again---poor paint adhesion due to slick oily valks... (having to re-do many areas like 3 times to get the black to actually DRY and adhere is why I haven't finished detailing it yet nor posted any pics)
  5. A recon pod would be a really good option. Or even, a container that has like mini-Ghosts inside. Could probably pack 3, maybe 4 decent-sized drones inside, if mounted semi-conformally. Finally---just make the optional pods black. Every scheme we've seen has a decent amount of black, so while it may not be the ideal match, it'll look ok with any of them.
  6. Bandai does superglue some bits, wouldn't be surprised if you found a spot that is.
  7. Hmmn, Tamiya Bronze is decently close, but Gunze Burnt Iron may be even closer. Looking at yours made me look closely at mine there, and I had some little bumps/bubbles in the paint there disturbing the otherwise very smooth and shiny surface---tried to very slightly scrape them with an xacto (which works well 99% of the time)---but just rubbing it with my t-shirt-covered fingernail scraped it off! So the paint on the feet is very fragile folks! Don't mess with them at all. Yeesh, frankly I'm deft enough with an xacto to be able to remove a tampo from on top of another tampo on top of paint, all while leaving the 2nd and 3rd layers perfectly fine. But this just foot-paint scraped right off. It's thin, with zero adhesion.
  8. You must have seen a different CCA than I did. If there was lots of Sazabi-Nu action than all the human scenes (especially Quess) may have been forgivable. But there's like 90 secs total of those two mechs on-screen. Even if you're a huge fan of those 2 suits---it's not worth watching it for how little you get to see of them in action.
  9. Just saw it----I thought it was really good. Sure, basically no Godzilla in the first half, but the latter half more than makes up for it. And the first half is just plain good, not simply "good for the first half of a Godzilla/monster/terror/action movie".
  10. I transformed mine once, didn't like how it looked in person---then everything cracked the first time I went back to fighter mode to put it back in the box to sell it.
  11. Interesting----I think a -29's Super parts may look best on GERWALK mode.
  12. Ooh, I really like how the white on the tailfins is done on that Max. It's not directly copying the VF-1J scheme, it's tweaked just enough to "fit" the VF-4 better.
  13. Oh wow, a Shawn posting/sighting. High praise indeed, for a product to get his attention!
  14. My Ozma -29 was half-way to GERWALK mode when I opened the box---I feared it was broken or mis-assembled, but it was fine in the end.
  15. Link to the actual Maketoys catalog PDF, downloadable: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Oh-MPIQfxnUnJMLUJvOEp1STA/edit?pli=1 You can save it and zoom in etc, the text and colors render much better offline than online.
  16. I just scraped off the excess silver with an xacto blade. But eventually covered them with the chrome Reprolabels. I believe rubbing(Isopropyl)* alcohol and a toothpick would also work well in this scenario. PS---don't soak in paint thinner, soak in rubbing* alcohol. Sure, it takes longer, but you can soak plastic for days and days with no harm. *different countries call different stuff, "rubbing" alcohol. In the US it is isopropyl, but many nations use Isopropanol--which isn't quite the same.
  17. High-res pics of Quantron: http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/transformers-3rd-party-discussion/883088-maketoys-quantron-not-computron-62.html#post11048599 Full zip of all the super-high-res pics: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/73557853/Quantron.rar (every member in every mode)
  18. Ok, related question---is the after-credit scene worth it? (as in, is it at the VERY end of like a 20-min credit sequence like some movies do, or is it more like after the first "batch" of credits and you don't have to wait FOREVER to see it?)
  19. I voted yes, mainly just for the idea of a Milia VF-4. But not the M3 version, that was hideous. (which is surprising, since her M3 VF-11 looks awesome, even better than her M7 VF-11). The VF-4's had the worst color schemes out of all the M3 valks. Most looked awesome, but the VF-4 was ugly and the VF-5000 was bland.
  20. IMHO, having looked at every Lambor pic there is----yours is actually pretty good paint-wise. The silver leg overspray and issues with the area right around the black periscope recess on the roof are on EVERY example. And the fender just below the side-mirror is always the very worst spot. In short: If the hood/chest is good, consider yourself lucky. There are many examples that look much worse than yours. The main body panels (hood, doors, rear fenders) look good on yours. The odds of you getting a BETTER one are low. You'd just be trading for flaws in different locations.
  21. Finally got around the stripping the canopy---it cannot be "lightened" like the fold crystals (removing just a thin layer, leaving some blue behind), and I don't think it can be evenly re-colored without airbrushing so it'll probably just remain totally clear---though I do plan to do some experimenting once my clear Tamiya comes in. Windscreen piece was harder to do than the main canopy for some reason.
  22. I'm in the minority---my 2nd-least-liked ep of the series. Yeah, a better ending than CCA, but that's not saying much. Really, I think the early eps were the best, and kinda went downhill from there, with ep 4 being a brief resurgence of awesome.
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