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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. David Hingtgen
    Fact: red-green bi-color LED's have been around for decades. It's VERY easy to do. A simple three-way switch is all it'd take. Off-red-green. Though it would require "clear" psycoframe, and thus would look pretty bland when "off". (vs, un-lit clear-red plastic, etc)
  2. David Hingtgen
    PG Unicorn has a whole lot of unknowns right now. Basically, I want everything---transformable, internal lighting, still posable with wiring installed, etc. That's a heck of an engineering feat, and it may not be possible---or, Bandai's had years to figure it out, and has done it. But I won't buy it unless it's got all of that. No transfomation? Pass. No true* internal lighting? Pass. Can't move if wired up? Pass. *I want something like fiberoptics, to truly light up channels/pathways. Not just a bunch of LED's making "dots" of color here and there. I want every square mm evenly lit. For how much they're asking, it better be a whole lot more than 2 dozen red LED's...
  3. David Hingtgen
    RG Tallgeese *I*.
  4. David Hingtgen
    I think due to its raw size and skinny proportions, the -51 can show off the stand's capabilities best. It's just a monster of a valk.
  5. David Hingtgen
    F-16's doing night-time mid-air refueling on their way to strik ISIS, have a look at their load-outs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ahLNOzFVsHk French MOD posted a neat video of their efforts: Neat fact: A-10C combat debut soon, sending over the Blacksnakes: Artist gets big points for how he did the tongue--that's brilliant use of the airframe. Sad fact: they may very well be going up against M1 Abrams.
  6. David Hingtgen
    Pretty sure it's the exact same one from a while ago, probably the exact same photo shoot even---just now those particular pics are past the embargo date and can be published. Remember, we NEVER saw the previous YF-19's shoulder armor hinge, nor final colors. The final, final, final official pics---were a hand-painted resin protoype with the shoulders collapsed. Not actual color-molded plastic. We what actually got was very close, but not quite what was shown. We won't know the 0D's actual production color until Mr K. tweets a shot from the factory showing sprues popping out of the mold.
  7. David Hingtgen
    Yup! I was thinking about doing a vertical tube-launch pose (wings folded etc) , but the stand may not go high enough. The -51 is BIG.
  8. David Hingtgen
    If they wanted to bomb stuff stealthily, they'd have sent B-2's. Lots of bombs, uber-stealthy.
  9. David Hingtgen
    Nora does a knife-edge pass for the crowd: Isamu and Yan heading off: There are 2 valkyries in this picture, (plus the Sv-51):
  10. David Hingtgen
    Well, it's because McNamara couldn't keep his plane names and numbers straight that the entire Naval force had to be redesignated...
  11. David Hingtgen
    That seems---odd. Surely there's no high-end fighters to patrol/defend against, and using it to bomb would be an insane waste. Anyways----50 years ago: First flight of the Valkyrie.
  12. David Hingtgen
    It'd be really nice if the buster rifle could mount on the back for storage (like in the manga)
  13. David Hingtgen
    Not yet, sorry.
  14. David Hingtgen
    So for so good on my glued base pivots. Gave two full days to dry. Used Beacon 527 glue. Now, I wouldn't use that glue for a "stressed" joint, but as the base pivot is being pushed into the base itself by gravity (and the valk!) it should be fine.
  15. David Hingtgen
    Again--solder if possible. Few of my kit's connections are "as designed"---because screwing wires together simply doesn't work!
  16. David Hingtgen
    The wires wrap around the "post" of the screw, under the screw head. As the screw is tightened, the head will press against them, holding them in place against piece "B". The real goal, is to electrically connect the wires to piece B. The screw is doing so mechanically, but it'd be better to solder if possible. Their suggestion to cut off the stripped ends is just nuts. You want the stripped ends contacting the screw etc. You'll want enough stripped length to wrap around under the screw-head. Of these two wires---one should go to the chest, and one to the head, but both meet up at "piece B" and the screw. The on/off switch should be similar----from the middle post of the switch, one wire to the head, one to the chest. Color-wise---I can't recall which color is supposed to be what on this kit, but so long as you're consistent, it should work (assuming LED is wired correctly, they are one-way devices). Color "A" should meet up at the middle switch-post, and one of each should go to the head and chest. Color "B" should meet up at the screw post and metal-piece "B", with one each going to the head and chest. The only really critical thing, polarity-wise, is the LED itself. Make sure to know which is + and which is -, and that you've got everything matching. And make sure head and chest are the same! Ok, the 25mm piece of wire? Very similar to what you do in the previous step. You are going to use a screw, to hold the wire against a small piece of metal. This time, piece "C". The wire goes from the on/off switch, to the screw-hole. The screw holds that wire and piece "C" together. And the stripped end of the wire should wrap-around the screw-post, looped around underneath the screw head. The entire kit is designed to be solder-free, but that does lead to some "odd" ways of doing things. Like screwing wires in place!
  17. David Hingtgen
    That does make sense, and I considered that, but feared prolonged weight/stress against the "other" side would shear the parts apart or something.
  18. David Hingtgen
    Ambroid and Tenax require a very close fit, and IMHO would be worse than white glue for my situation. Tenax won't work with a nearly millimeter-wide gap between parts. The one stand really didn't need glue at all, as the fit was likely sufficient on its own. The other--we'll see, may have to use the 3D printed base if my stuff doesn't hold well.
  19. David Hingtgen
    After checking around, nowhere in town sells what I needed, so I figured I'd try some stuff I already had. Will let it dry another full day then see how it went.
  20. David Hingtgen
    I'm stopping tonight to try to find acrylic glue. (By swapping around parts and sanding, I've got one stand that fits perfectly using the acrylic base pivot----but the other will definitely need gap-filling glue)
  21. David Hingtgen
    Dang it, I was hoping to be the first to show the -51 adapter in use.
  22. David Hingtgen
    No way.
  23. David Hingtgen
    Got Tigris---quite different than I expected---nothing like Talon, despite sharing half the mold. Stiff! Shoulders take a lot of effort to loosen up. It's TOTALLY NOT IN THE INSTRUCTIONS but they move in an "L" shape. They go up/down, and front/back. But it's an "L" so they can only change direction at the "junction". And the front/back motion is STIFF. The problem is, it's so stiff---when you first get it, you really can't tell if it's just really stiff, or if the arm's not positioned "at the junction" to allow it to move along the slot. But once you get it---tiger mode looks so much better, with the relocated arms.
  24. David Hingtgen
    I too am interested in pics----I think the leading edges should be grey as well.
  25. David Hingtgen
    I blame the second BOOK. It was so blatantly written "to be a movie" you could practically see director's notes scribbled in the margins.
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