Jump to content

David Hingtgen

Moderator
  • Posts

    16990
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. You forgot part of his leg transformation. ::edit:: And his windows.
  2. I wish my MP Sideswipe was molded in shiny red plastic, he'd look better...
  3. I believe it's mostly raw heat. Blue flame is hotter. Which would of course entail having the right fuel/oxygen etc to create heat THAT intense.
  4. Not Abominus: And BBTS already has the first one up for pre-order (NotBlot) with color pics: http://www.bigbadtoystore.com/bbts/product.aspx?product=UQT10013&mode=retail And it says October! Based on a LOT of design cues, it seems very much like UT hired the guy that designed Feral Rex for MMC. (MMC then tweaked it a lot, but the basic design remained) The "non-traditiona" configuration (Blot and Cutthroat swapping places) certainly gives me pause, but I am considering that it "may be for the best"---mainly because in G1, Blot made for a very fat, stumpy arm---wider and thicker than it was long! If it turns out anywhere near as good as Feral Rex, it may be the best Abominus we get. Strange, I remember UT teasing Piranacon not too long ago---but here we have Abominus ready to go?
  5. I think people are confusing "rumors" with "wishes".
  6. Got my payment request from N-Y for Super parts, and tried their (new?) credit card option, via Hi-Pay. Googling, it seems legit, but isn't going through. Called card company---they show no activity/attempts, they're not "refusing" it on their ned. Anyone tried paying N-Y via credit card (directly, not paypal) lately?
  7. I've seen many people rave about Vallejo, but from the few times I tried them, I found them "strange". I wonder if I'm doing something wrong.
  8. Just imagine if someone KO'd the super parts, but altered/improved the hip-armor to clip in using the intake cover slots...
  9. Really basic: 1. Load brush only half-way with paint. (as in, you should have the space between the middle of the bristles and the handle still bare) 2. Single stroke per coat wherever possible. "going back over" while starting to dry is often the worst possible thing. Acrylics are the least forgiving in this regard, enamel/lacquer actually gives you more than a 5-second window. 3. Retarder! Load up on the stuff. (again, more critical for acrylics) 4. Thin coats do self-level better.
  10. I wish the windscreen was easily removed (the main canopy is)----then maybe I could trade my clear Ozma canopy for a 30th's purplish one. (surely someone would like a totally clear one with the 30th ann scheme) But as it is, the non-removable windscreen makes it very hard to alter---was hard enough to make clear because of that, would be much harder to try to re-color. (and is the main reason I've never tried to re-color my Ozma's canopy to either a subtle blue or purple color)
  11. I found them to be quite poor, honestly. Poor adhesion, transparent ink. I'd use them as literal stickers, like on a 3rd-grader's paper instead of a gold star, but little more.
  12. I need a LEGO adapter too! (Prefer black though)
  13. Is it Non-Spec Sea Blue? (if so, we need to mail a bottle to Arcadia...)
  14. Why not buy 2 then wait for the grey CF version to get 2 more?
  15. In the previous pics we saw bottles of blue paint and a paintbrush in his hand. I think it's more than "a chance" that it was hand-painted.
  16. BTW, from reviews online----the SDCC Unikitty faces have much more opaque white printing. (the standard release really is more like a light pink face, as it's so thin and transparent). Hopefully future Unikittys will have this improved printing. (LEGO does seem aware of her popularity, and plan even more releases) I was actually hoping for improved printing on the "second batch" of first-wave movie sets, as it was apparent from the very earliest ones that the face was more pink than white, but it didn't happen. (as I have a "2nd batch" Cloud Cuckoo Palace)
  17. I'm one of the people who bought a full set of super parts and armor parts when they came out, despite not having the valk they went with. Took like 2 years to get everything, (until the re-issue) but I think that was the smart way to go. (also, I figured Alto armor would be "rare" in the future, as many people saw no need to get it at the time, not vs the iconic Ozma armor) Even if one paid over MSRP for the valk itself, it could still be cheaper than paying over MSRP for both the super parts AND the armor parts.
  18. I had very few Targetmasters back in the day, not all that many Headmasters---but nearly all the Powermasters. That said, I haven't bought any reissues or even old originals---none were THAT good IMHO. But I am planning on a few 3P versions. (hoping for a 3P Triggerhappy some day)
  19. I think it is more the difference between "image" vs "design", rather than the difference between ripoff/KO/counterfeit. Infringment upon a image/character, sure, that's almost for certain. But infringement of a design---if they created the mold from scratch, it's very much in the 'grey' area. Legally, I don't know if it makes a difference, but for "fans of robots"----myself and many others consider a "true" KO/counterfeit to be copying/reusing an existing product and do not support that (I refuse to buy Igear's coneheads, for example). Otherwise it is "merely" unlicensed---but their own effort/sculpt/engineering.
  20. I very much agree with this. The 3P TF stuff is because of China primarily. North America is a side-market for most of the companies. Everything I've read is saying "Chinese TF fans are funding/supporting it"---they got the series later, grew up with it, and with more and more Chinese getting richer and starting businesses etc---they're now making the TF figures that they always wanted. Macross, in China, doesn't have even 1/10 that fanbase AFAIK. A 1/60 3P valk seems a long way off, if ever.
  21. Regardless of name change, it's still not a KO. If you take a Nike shoe, change the name or make a slight color/detail change, but is otherwise 99% identical to SOMETHING THAT ALREADY EXISTS AS A PRODUCT, then it's a counterfeit----but if you make your own design from scratch, then it's not copying an existing product. You may not have the rights to that "look"---but it is your own design. It'd be like sculpting a statue of Darth Vader from scratch----it may not be allowed for legal sale (certainly not under that name), but you're not making a counterfeit of an existing Vader statue. It won't be confused for a particular Vader product. Customs can't say "this is a clone of Brand X's model 1345B Vader statue". There is no other SD SDF-1 out there---it's not a copy, knockoff, or counterfeit, becuase it's the first and original. Looking like a DYRL-style Macross is a separate matter from being its own sculpt/mold.
  22. Well, there'd be thousands of Transformers fans in jail if that was the case. And there likely wouldn't be any Europe-based stores selling stuff like that. (and there are!) Again, big difference between counterfeit/KO and unlicensed. A counterfeit is like a purse or shoe that looks EXACTLY like the real thing, and even has the real thing's logo, and is trying to pass itself off as that thing. Or the infamous cheap Rolex watches. Or a figure like this: THAT is a counterfeit. Says Hasbro. Says Transformers with the proper logo and even has a little ® on it. But it's not! Not Hasbro's, not official. A VERY exact copy trying to pass itself off as an actual Hasbro Transformer. THAT is a counterfeit. But for the "Makuros"---there is no other SD Macross-class ship figure that looks exactly like this, nor is it claiming to be a "Macross" nor does it have UN Spacy logos on it. It's not copying an existing figure. It is the original of itself.
  23. Green canopy had orange-yellow stripes. Purple canopy has bright yellow stripes.
×
×
  • Create New...