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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. David Hingtgen
    I see MP UM as having an awful truck mode, greatly inferior to Citizen Stack's. Better ramps would have lead to more angled shins, which'd look better and be more G1 accurate (both toon and toy) AND eliminate the infamous "gap" there. Just one of many things that could have been done different. G1 Ultra Magnus IS A CAR CARRIER. Thus, he must carry cars. It's the entire reason and primary design constraint of the original G1 toy. It's absolutely utterly inherent to his design. You can't ignore that aspect. May as well make a Blast-Off that doesn't combine with 4 other guys...
  2. David Hingtgen
    I recently saw a great comment along those lines----at this rate, if they'd asked Lockheed to make a new fighter to tackle the Me262 in 1944, it'd have been ready for the Vietnam war...
  3. David Hingtgen
    Understandable---but so many people want that look, yet also utterly refuse to accept "non-transforming" figures that would be just like that. TF's have even more anime magic than valks do, you simply can't have a tansforming figure that has screen-accurate robot modes. A lot of people want the utter impossibility of "perfectly screen-accurate---while also transforming". That will never, ever, happen. And since one MUST compromise robot mode looks to enable transformation at all, period---might as well try to do the best job possible in balancing the two forms, because transforming yet looking awful in alt-mode is pointless---then you've got nothing, might as well have just skipped transforming. You can either have perfect-looking robots, or good-looking transformers. Not both. And sacrificing all of vehicle mode's looks for the robot mode is kinda pointless--because at that point it'll look so bad that no one will want to transform it---and you should have just made a non-transforming robot that looks really, really good to start with.
  4. David Hingtgen
    Of course---it all happened before, and it'll all happen again.
  5. David Hingtgen
    Trying out some battroid poses----Nora sniping from below, Isamu dashing to the rescue. And yes, Nora is very stable like that. Even if you tip it over intentionally like 20 degrees, it'll right itself:
  6. David Hingtgen
    Considering how many people ask for hyper-articulated figures that compromise EVERYTHING for the looks of robot-mode, that's not far off from what some people want. They're all "Ultra Magnus doesn't even really need a trailer, much less a working one---he's just going to be in robot mode all the time anyways".
  7. David Hingtgen
    I used Beacon 527, so far so good. It's similar (but not nearly as fume-y) to E6000. A little spot that managed to spend more than 10 secs oozed out before wiping off the excess did slightly etch the base---but I see that as a good thing, as it means it acted as a solvent and not just "sticky". Bonus is you can find it cheap at any local hobby/craft/fabric store. (At least around here) Note that I let mine dry for 2.5 days, just to be safe.
  8. David Hingtgen
    Fact: red-green bi-color LED's have been around for decades. It's VERY easy to do. A simple three-way switch is all it'd take. Off-red-green. Though it would require "clear" psycoframe, and thus would look pretty bland when "off". (vs, un-lit clear-red plastic, etc)
  9. David Hingtgen
    PG Unicorn has a whole lot of unknowns right now. Basically, I want everything---transformable, internal lighting, still posable with wiring installed, etc. That's a heck of an engineering feat, and it may not be possible---or, Bandai's had years to figure it out, and has done it. But I won't buy it unless it's got all of that. No transfomation? Pass. No true* internal lighting? Pass. Can't move if wired up? Pass. *I want something like fiberoptics, to truly light up channels/pathways. Not just a bunch of LED's making "dots" of color here and there. I want every square mm evenly lit. For how much they're asking, it better be a whole lot more than 2 dozen red LED's...
  10. David Hingtgen
    RG Tallgeese *I*.
  11. David Hingtgen
    I think due to its raw size and skinny proportions, the -51 can show off the stand's capabilities best. It's just a monster of a valk.
  12. David Hingtgen
    F-16's doing night-time mid-air refueling on their way to strik ISIS, have a look at their load-outs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ahLNOzFVsHk French MOD posted a neat video of their efforts: Neat fact: A-10C combat debut soon, sending over the Blacksnakes: Artist gets big points for how he did the tongue--that's brilliant use of the airframe. Sad fact: they may very well be going up against M1 Abrams.
  13. David Hingtgen
    Pretty sure it's the exact same one from a while ago, probably the exact same photo shoot even---just now those particular pics are past the embargo date and can be published. Remember, we NEVER saw the previous YF-19's shoulder armor hinge, nor final colors. The final, final, final official pics---were a hand-painted resin protoype with the shoulders collapsed. Not actual color-molded plastic. We what actually got was very close, but not quite what was shown. We won't know the 0D's actual production color until Mr K. tweets a shot from the factory showing sprues popping out of the mold.
  14. David Hingtgen
    Yup! I was thinking about doing a vertical tube-launch pose (wings folded etc) , but the stand may not go high enough. The -51 is BIG.
  15. David Hingtgen
    If they wanted to bomb stuff stealthily, they'd have sent B-2's. Lots of bombs, uber-stealthy.
  16. David Hingtgen
    Nora does a knife-edge pass for the crowd: Isamu and Yan heading off: There are 2 valkyries in this picture, (plus the Sv-51):
  17. David Hingtgen
    Well, it's because McNamara couldn't keep his plane names and numbers straight that the entire Naval force had to be redesignated...
  18. David Hingtgen
    That seems---odd. Surely there's no high-end fighters to patrol/defend against, and using it to bomb would be an insane waste. Anyways----50 years ago: First flight of the Valkyrie.
  19. David Hingtgen
    It'd be really nice if the buster rifle could mount on the back for storage (like in the manga)
  20. David Hingtgen
    Not yet, sorry.
  21. David Hingtgen
    So for so good on my glued base pivots. Gave two full days to dry. Used Beacon 527 glue. Now, I wouldn't use that glue for a "stressed" joint, but as the base pivot is being pushed into the base itself by gravity (and the valk!) it should be fine.
  22. David Hingtgen
    Again--solder if possible. Few of my kit's connections are "as designed"---because screwing wires together simply doesn't work!
  23. David Hingtgen
    The wires wrap around the "post" of the screw, under the screw head. As the screw is tightened, the head will press against them, holding them in place against piece "B". The real goal, is to electrically connect the wires to piece B. The screw is doing so mechanically, but it'd be better to solder if possible. Their suggestion to cut off the stripped ends is just nuts. You want the stripped ends contacting the screw etc. You'll want enough stripped length to wrap around under the screw-head. Of these two wires---one should go to the chest, and one to the head, but both meet up at "piece B" and the screw. The on/off switch should be similar----from the middle post of the switch, one wire to the head, one to the chest. Color-wise---I can't recall which color is supposed to be what on this kit, but so long as you're consistent, it should work (assuming LED is wired correctly, they are one-way devices). Color "A" should meet up at the middle switch-post, and one of each should go to the head and chest. Color "B" should meet up at the screw post and metal-piece "B", with one each going to the head and chest. The only really critical thing, polarity-wise, is the LED itself. Make sure to know which is + and which is -, and that you've got everything matching. And make sure head and chest are the same! Ok, the 25mm piece of wire? Very similar to what you do in the previous step. You are going to use a screw, to hold the wire against a small piece of metal. This time, piece "C". The wire goes from the on/off switch, to the screw-hole. The screw holds that wire and piece "C" together. And the stripped end of the wire should wrap-around the screw-post, looped around underneath the screw head. The entire kit is designed to be solder-free, but that does lead to some "odd" ways of doing things. Like screwing wires in place!
  24. David Hingtgen
    That does make sense, and I considered that, but feared prolonged weight/stress against the "other" side would shear the parts apart or something.
  25. David Hingtgen
    Ambroid and Tenax require a very close fit, and IMHO would be worse than white glue for my situation. Tenax won't work with a nearly millimeter-wide gap between parts. The one stand really didn't need glue at all, as the fit was likely sufficient on its own. The other--we'll see, may have to use the 3D printed base if my stuff doesn't hold well.
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