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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. Shin's plane is basically an F-14B with the chin-pod of an F-14D. But that means the FineMolds kit won't work, as it is purely a D, with no A/B parts AFAIK. This mainly means the cockpit will be wrong. You really need a Hasegawa kit to make Shin's, as their F-14D kits are F-14B kits with an extra sprue or two of parts. If you want, you could simply acquire the chinpod only from a D, and add it to a B. That would be like Shin's. Most every other D-specific part, is not on Shin's. Shin's plane is 99% a B, 1% a D. However, that one part is the most obvious/famous part that makes a D, a D. In fact, I have long-suspected they simply copied the Hasegawa kit itself, as there's a few minor assembly/part-choice errors in their kits, which are replicated on the M0 CGI...
  2. When it comes to clear, Testor's "Transparent Blue" spray is surprisingly nice paint. (it's about the only clear spray they make, asides from Smoke). *plain basic original Testors line. Not their model master, custom-car, lacquer, or anything else--just the most standard basic Testors spray display---it's in that section.
  3. Anyone ever translate the captions for the YF-19 schemes in the "Variable Fighter Master File" book? From the way the block/line numbers are written, it almost seems to me like the Focker-colored one, IS Isamu's, repainted. Of course, there's nothing saying it couldn't have been upgraded and repainted several more times over the years.
  4. Japanese-made decals often seem to react to HOT water better than decal set/softener. Don't burn yourself, but get the water friggin HOT before you dip them---see if it helps. (this is very true for Hasegawa, not sure about Bandai)
  5. A VF-19A, painted in Isamu's colors, would be basically identical to his YF-19, as the only difference IIRC is the way the canopy is hinged. The VF-19Advance however, has different shoulders at least, (I think) (to accomodate the newer -25-based FAST packs)
  6. Basing it on X instead of the original would be a big improvement IMHO, if for no other reason than the visual designs. Plus you know, then you can have Zero.
  7. Yup. The whole "at their discretion" clause is key---if you spend that much, they're going to be a whole lot more "discretionary" in your case. And course, it says *MAY* cancel/block etc. Doesn't say WILL. So many people ignore that little word, but it's intentionally put in everything, for legal reasons. From food to cars. "May help cure cancer". "May regrow hair". "May solve world hunger". Doesn't say it will, just that it might---all they need is .00001% evidence that it's better than nothing, and it MAY HELP do something.
  8. Is that really *that* different from how the SR-71 works? I assume the valk is not a "pure" ramjet in that mode.
  9. Pontiac Grand Prix---but it has GM's "Monsoon" system, which means all sorts of weirdness when it comes to ohms, wiring, etc. Very hard to replace/upgrade without completely rewiring and replacing the entire setup, from head unit to amp to speakers to power supply----just getting basic components that'd "function, without being the OEM speakers" was enough research/rewiring for me.
  10. Exactly. Good example is Heat Man's stage---the disappearing red blocks. It's hard at first, but absolutely doable once you figure it out---but never easy, it always demands concentration every single time. But MM9----even when you knew it exactly, and did it as perfectly as humanly possible----you'd still die 50 times in a row having made not one screen more of progress.
  11. I'll admit I never beat 9. I just remember a silver-grey Wily stage, and vertical scrolling. After many attempts, decided it was utterly impossible even with pixel-perfect timing, and quit. (This from a guy who could do Quick Man's stage without Flash Man's weapon back in the day)
  12. The "factory crossover" was a resistor on the tweeter housing. As for "why glue"----nowhere to screw in onto. As I mentioned----no flat surfaces really, all curves. I don't want it "exposed to the elements" so it needs to be inside the vapor barrier sheet, not outside on the sheet metal.
  13. Car audio question: Googling has been no help, and I've tried everything. After replacing the blown stock speakers, mounting the crossovers has been a pain.(as there was no crossover in the factory setup). Nothing lasts more than 3-6 months before I hear it rattling around inside the door panel. The latest mounting attempt was plastic epoxy. (this stuff: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?partnumber=1363118&utm_source=google&utm_medium=nonpaid&utm_campaign=frooglePN&utm_term=1363118&gclid=CNCEk_b2gcYCFdQ8gQod9IoAqA) (and I let it cure like 2 days before putting the door panels back on, and was super-paranoid about being rough with the doors for a week after) The backside of the door panel is smooth, and dish-bowl curved--I'm trying to mount it in the arm-rest area. There's basically no flat surface area in any spot/angle I can find, I'm always just "gluing the edges" of the crossover to something, with little surface area making contact. Short of drilling holes and bolting it on through the interior (not an option!), any suggestions? Just had a thought-----gluing "mounts" to fairly flat areas where they may actually get a grip, and zip-tieing through those mounts? I'm thinking I may start just measuring every spot I can find, to see if there's anywhere it will "just barely" fit that I may have missed, while keeping clearance for the window mechanism etc. Door panel is made from "unglueable/unpaintable" plastic I think---all the components are welded together. Anyone ever tried like using a soldering iron to try to "melt-weld" stuff like that? I don't care how ugly it'd be, it'll never be seen, totally willing to ruin the crossover's housing.
  14. I've just gotta repost this: That looks so much better (and Milia-esque) than the "coral-red and pale grey" you usually see. Always wondered if somehow M7's VF-22's had coloring errors when being animated, and they were always intended to be "traditional" M&M blue and red, and not the "pastel" versions we got.
  15. I know I posted about it at TFW, did I forget to here? But anways, short version: Apatosaurus excelsus, is now Brontosaurus excelsus (again). Apatosaurus louisae and Apatosaurus ajax, are still Apatosaurus. Considering that A.lousiae is the "odd one out" to me, visually---that seems odd. But I'm not an expert.
  16. If 4/5/6 were very good, it might almost be worth like 20 bucks. But really, to me, MM kinda goes like: MM2, MM3, X, X4, and then "other stuff". Those are the "core 4" awesome Megaman games.
  17. Macross Isoceles? (looks like it COULD be, though hard to tell)
  18. Annoyingly, it looks like "1 more mm" of plastic or space almost anywhere, would have allowed it to be secured somehow. Or even just a slight reshaping of the opening, to match the hilt's cross-section.
  19. Just got Gouf Custom---are the inactivated blades supposed to just "sit loosely" in the shields? They don't clip/tab in at all, I fear them just falling right out in many poses.
  20. Anyone want CW Cyclonus? Purple is so wrong I don't want him----never even been transformed. (I decided to sell him about 10 secs after I crushed the packaging to throw it away...) I am becoming less enthralled with CW by the minute----decided Wildrider and Cyclonus weren't good enough to keep, will probably sell Breakdown too. Dragstrip is the only good one so far IMHO. Aerialbots are "ok+".
  21. At this point, skip Battle 7 and do Battle Frontier or Battle Galaxy.
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