Jump to content

David Hingtgen

Moderator
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    16990

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. David Hingtgen
    Horizon does look awesome. Robo-dinos! Someone said Zoids, which I'll agree with. As for FFVII's "look"---Midgar always looked the most high-tech/industrial/"real" of the areas and that's the only place we saw in the trailer. If the new game's to be all of FFVII---then there's plenty of places that can look much more fantasy/traditional. In short---Midgar will look just as it did in Advent Children. But many places weren't seen at all in AC, or only had the briefest of glimpses/flashbacks, and can be more bright/colorful/exaggerated. And most of the spin-off games are Midgar-centered, too, so again---plenty of "unseen since 1997" areas to be had.
  2. David Hingtgen
    The rudders are canted enough that they could at least do some "nose up" control, like the F-18 does. (when moved down, they're little more than airbrakes---again, like the (Super)F-18 does with its rudders)
  3. David Hingtgen
    Hmmn----anyone willing to split costs to get a rub-on sheet made? (I'm certain several full sets could be fit onto a single sheet) I'm certainly in for a set. But I have zero experience with this type of file and printing, so can't "lead" it myself.
  4. David Hingtgen
    Having watched the video, I'm more optimistic than before that it will be overall superior to the Arcadia---but still will wait for either Isamu's original YF, or a new color (SVF-569 anyone?), preferably with "Plus" style super parts, not the "totally utterly ridiculous in battroid mode" Frontier-style ones. This, please:
  5. David Hingtgen
    They say you play as a human. Boring, defeats the whole point of the ME universe, in that humans are the minority, and all the good/interesting characters are aliens. SW is the "humans dominant" universe, where aliens are usually minor, one-line characters.
  6. David Hingtgen
    Yup, the "ready for launch" option is part of why I bought my first Fujimi F-14. (their A-version is very nice/accurate, it's only the B/D which really has issues)
  7. David Hingtgen
    ::reads over:: 11 years ago? Dang. But it's probably been at least half that long since I looked at a Fujimi kit closely. The Hase kit is much more "etched into my brain". On that note---I've got a spare Fujimi F-14D kit or two deep in the stash pile downstairs, will gladly sell to be made into Shin's!
  8. David Hingtgen
    Shin's plane is basically an F-14B with the chin-pod of an F-14D. But that means the FineMolds kit won't work, as it is purely a D, with no A/B parts AFAIK. This mainly means the cockpit will be wrong. You really need a Hasegawa kit to make Shin's, as their F-14D kits are F-14B kits with an extra sprue or two of parts. If you want, you could simply acquire the chinpod only from a D, and add it to a B. That would be like Shin's. Most every other D-specific part, is not on Shin's. Shin's plane is 99% a B, 1% a D. However, that one part is the most obvious/famous part that makes a D, a D. In fact, I have long-suspected they simply copied the Hasegawa kit itself, as there's a few minor assembly/part-choice errors in their kits, which are replicated on the M0 CGI...
  9. David Hingtgen
    When it comes to clear, Testor's "Transparent Blue" spray is surprisingly nice paint. (it's about the only clear spray they make, asides from Smoke). *plain basic original Testors line. Not their model master, custom-car, lacquer, or anything else--just the most standard basic Testors spray display---it's in that section.
  10. David Hingtgen
    Needed emphasis/correction.
  11. David Hingtgen
    Anyone ever translate the captions for the YF-19 schemes in the "Variable Fighter Master File" book? From the way the block/line numbers are written, it almost seems to me like the Focker-colored one, IS Isamu's, repainted. Of course, there's nothing saying it couldn't have been upgraded and repainted several more times over the years.
  12. David Hingtgen
    Japanese-made decals often seem to react to HOT water better than decal set/softener. Don't burn yourself, but get the water friggin HOT before you dip them---see if it helps. (this is very true for Hasegawa, not sure about Bandai)
  13. David Hingtgen
    A VF-19A, painted in Isamu's colors, would be basically identical to his YF-19, as the only difference IIRC is the way the canopy is hinged. The VF-19Advance however, has different shoulders at least, (I think) (to accomodate the newer -25-based FAST packs)
  14. David Hingtgen
    Basing it on X instead of the original would be a big improvement IMHO, if for no other reason than the visual designs. Plus you know, then you can have Zero.
  15. David Hingtgen
    So tempted to rename the thread "Tran5formers".
  16. David Hingtgen
    Yup. The whole "at their discretion" clause is key---if you spend that much, they're going to be a whole lot more "discretionary" in your case. And course, it says *MAY* cancel/block etc. Doesn't say WILL. So many people ignore that little word, but it's intentionally put in everything, for legal reasons. From food to cars. "May help cure cancer". "May regrow hair". "May solve world hunger". Doesn't say it will, just that it might---all they need is .00001% evidence that it's better than nothing, and it MAY HELP do something.
  17. David Hingtgen
    Is that really *that* different from how the SR-71 works? I assume the valk is not a "pure" ramjet in that mode.
  18. David Hingtgen
    Pontiac Grand Prix---but it has GM's "Monsoon" system, which means all sorts of weirdness when it comes to ohms, wiring, etc. Very hard to replace/upgrade without completely rewiring and replacing the entire setup, from head unit to amp to speakers to power supply----just getting basic components that'd "function, without being the OEM speakers" was enough research/rewiring for me.
  19. David Hingtgen
    Exactly. Good example is Heat Man's stage---the disappearing red blocks. It's hard at first, but absolutely doable once you figure it out---but never easy, it always demands concentration every single time. But MM9----even when you knew it exactly, and did it as perfectly as humanly possible----you'd still die 50 times in a row having made not one screen more of progress.
  20. David Hingtgen
    I'll admit I never beat 9. I just remember a silver-grey Wily stage, and vertical scrolling. After many attempts, decided it was utterly impossible even with pixel-perfect timing, and quit. (This from a guy who could do Quick Man's stage without Flash Man's weapon back in the day)
  21. David Hingtgen
    The "factory crossover" was a resistor on the tweeter housing. As for "why glue"----nowhere to screw in onto. As I mentioned----no flat surfaces really, all curves. I don't want it "exposed to the elements" so it needs to be inside the vapor barrier sheet, not outside on the sheet metal.
  22. David Hingtgen
    Car audio question: Googling has been no help, and I've tried everything. After replacing the blown stock speakers, mounting the crossovers has been a pain.(as there was no crossover in the factory setup). Nothing lasts more than 3-6 months before I hear it rattling around inside the door panel. The latest mounting attempt was plastic epoxy. (this stuff: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?partnumber=1363118&utm_source=google&utm_medium=nonpaid&utm_campaign=frooglePN&utm_term=1363118&gclid=CNCEk_b2gcYCFdQ8gQod9IoAqA) (and I let it cure like 2 days before putting the door panels back on, and was super-paranoid about being rough with the doors for a week after) The backside of the door panel is smooth, and dish-bowl curved--I'm trying to mount it in the arm-rest area. There's basically no flat surface area in any spot/angle I can find, I'm always just "gluing the edges" of the crossover to something, with little surface area making contact. Short of drilling holes and bolting it on through the interior (not an option!), any suggestions? Just had a thought-----gluing "mounts" to fairly flat areas where they may actually get a grip, and zip-tieing through those mounts? I'm thinking I may start just measuring every spot I can find, to see if there's anywhere it will "just barely" fit that I may have missed, while keeping clearance for the window mechanism etc. Door panel is made from "unglueable/unpaintable" plastic I think---all the components are welded together. Anyone ever tried like using a soldering iron to try to "melt-weld" stuff like that? I don't care how ugly it'd be, it'll never be seen, totally willing to ruin the crossover's housing.
  23. David Hingtgen
    I've just gotta repost this: That looks so much better (and Milia-esque) than the "coral-red and pale grey" you usually see. Always wondered if somehow M7's VF-22's had coloring errors when being animated, and they were always intended to be "traditional" M&M blue and red, and not the "pastel" versions we got.
  24. David Hingtgen
    Not close enough, unless you can build up a full 1 or 2mm thickness.
  25. David Hingtgen
    I know I posted about it at TFW, did I forget to here? But anways, short version: Apatosaurus excelsus, is now Brontosaurus excelsus (again). Apatosaurus louisae and Apatosaurus ajax, are still Apatosaurus. Considering that A.lousiae is the "odd one out" to me, visually---that seems odd. But I'm not an expert.
×
×
  • Create New...