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Everything posted by Xigfrid
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For those who want less accuracy but more fun, I found this kit which has very similar to Macross shape missiles. You should be good putting (gluing) these on any pylon single/dual/triple considering a little sanding. Hasegawa x48-3 kit or the Hasegawa X48-2 also looks familiar
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Yeah that's pretty amazing how much the Japanese people can read. It's like if they read as much as we watch TV.
- 303 replies
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- translations
- chronicle
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Capt is still around, unfortunately he've quit making these resin kits. You still can follow his work, on analog watches, on Facebook. However, he sold most of his resin masters to Macross enthusiasts so you still have hope of a redition, if you want more info, you should leave him a PM or contact him on FB.
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Who would ever want or think about a 1:20 valk seriously? There must be some crazy folks in Max Factory or someone there lost a bet.
- 1065 replies
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- max factory
- dyrl
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Sketchley, I have to thank you a thousand times for your translation, I have been struggling to find Octo / Oktosu / Octss info and your work just save a lot of my time! Since I am at it, do you eventually have readen the Macross the Ride novel books ?
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We need a bigger detolf...
- 1065 replies
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- max factory
- dyrl
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I didn't know this use of the wood filament. Interesting. If you use shapeways, you will see a huge boost in quality of print for sure, just make sure to make best use of the print orientation. This nose should be printed vertically, not horizontally!
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Most of us would have bought them if bandai made them, probably the Vajra budget went right into the renewal.
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- toys
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That looks nice!
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Thank you! I have a few parts already available in my shop, the one I was entirely satisfied with already. Since the last parts needed a few changes I have the updated models coming soon, so I can confirm that everything works flawlessly. Soon hopefully!
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I have fixed all the current issues, and also made a few changes to the 3D files. Now here is only the chest amor plates to modelise, I think I got the solution by replacing the whole back plate and make a new one with the plates already in there.
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Pretty happy with the arm super parts now, they hold both the VF1 and VF-25 gunpods. I totally messed the supporting piece of the legs super parts though, but nothing to worry much, since the fix is pretty easy. The feet are tricky, I guess that they will need to be glued to be firmly attached to the mechanism. I made a slightly smaller head, the transformation to battroid is far easier now, but somehow the head looks small when taking pictures. But in reality it looks as big as the 1j head. Weird!
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Saburo, these shots are amazing! I really don't like fixed figures in general but these blend very well with this perspective.
- 20137 replies
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- macross delta
- vf-31 siegfried
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Wow, and you know what, I am more amazed by the paint details. It looks like the "tatoos" are stickers, or did you paint them ?! Something I am wondering, if you added in the process the appliance of a white putty layer, you could have clean surfaces and they would be strong enough to be panel lined on top of that. Considering how fast you finish your scratch builds, that should be a small delay in the process
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That part can be made of printed steel, polished steel probably would be best choice. I would really want to avoid dismantling my 21 so if you can take precise measures with a caliper, I can make the model
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Yes, the right hole was drilled with a manual pin vice and the left one with an electric rotary tool, since both are ok I would highly recommend to use the rotary tool because it is neater and it took something like 2 sec to make the hole. it is very easy to make the holes, because you use the pylon as a drilling guide
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The preparation work is the most important step with shapeways wsf. For these missiles I would do as follow: -clean with water and dish soap, let it dry -plunge it into floor polish and pull them out, clean the excess of resin in the ressess areas with a tooth pick and let it dry 24hours -sand a bit before applying primer. Let dry 24h then sand it smooth Then the painting: -for the white missiles I would go with another layer of tamyia fine white primer, and a gloss coat Ts-13. Then panel pinning with red and light grey enamel wash. -for the grey missiles I would go with those AS spray cans from tamyia, AS-1 or AS-3 for the VHMM for exemple. I usually apply a thick layer, and tamyia lacquer paints just flatten perfectly when curing. Apply a satin spray to seal the paint
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The preparation work is the most important step with shapeways wsf. For these missiles I would do as follow: -clean with water and dish soap, let it dry -plunge it into floor polish and pull them out, clean the excess of resin in the ressess areas with a tooth pick and let it dry 24hours -sand a bit before applying primer. Let dry 24h then sand it smooth Then the painting: -for the white missiles I would go with another layer of tamyia fine white primer, and a gloss coat Ts-13. Then panel pinning with red and light grey enamel wash. -for the grey missiles I would go with those AS spray cans from tamyia, AS-1 or AS-3 for the VHMM for exemple. I usually apply a thick layer, and tamyia lacquer paints just flatten perfectly when curing. Apply a satin spray to seal the paint
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I also admire how close the model is from the original, at the 1st try!
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Ok, now are the VHMM / PaCSWS-1G missiles. They come in a pack of 2, they have a cockpit and clear canopy that you can cut from any acrylic sheet (or any plastic container from your food store). They are compatible with the single missile pylons for your VF 31, 171 and SV 262. You will need the special Station 4 pylon to adapt them for the VF 25.