Xigfrid

Goddamn shapeways ingineers who rejected my sprues because are "only" 1,98mm thick. But when you design a 2mm diameter sprue with sketchup, the tube is faceted and the corners are 2mm far apart but the flat of the faces are only 1,98mm. 

this is as if they suddenly decided to make the minimum sprue diameter would be 2.1mm instead of 2mm, so most of the previous models will fail now

The VF-0s is stunning, I wonder how much benefit would gain a Vf-0A, considering this later one is really naked compared to the 0S

The solution will take more than a few email exchanges... I will need to give a closer look at both the design and to shapeways "new recommended sprue size". 

I will have a ticket to see if this is their system error. But if they really need a new design because of an internal political change, I won't be able to fix it before 2 weeks. Sorry

I saw a rejection notice and couldn't believe it, do you know which shapeways is in charge of your area? USA or Europe?

And then out of nowhere, Bandai will release the Miria VF-9, ala VF-19 Advance! I wish

Don't give cheap excuses to Arcadia, a small mold the size of the dual seat canopy and the nosecone won't ruin them, and would drastically increase their sales by dropping the old 1D value and increasing demand from those who already have the Yamato versions

I love Sivil: so many things were never told but her face expressions or reactions would made it clear. 

I will be following your progress 

Yep here are tools 

That's a nice print, better than what you get from shapeways, where did you get them?

Is that a new Cheyenne II toy? Or the Cheyenne that was featured in the hobby magasin?

That's pretty neat result for a 2-pass process and smoothing Wsf parts. 

If I can find Mr putty here I should try it and compare it to the Floor vermish method. Just to make sure @Jasonc, do you apply the thick layer with a brush or with bare fingers also?

Nice finish really, I would like to learn more about your putty method, which brand do you use, and how do you apply it?

My last white attempt was to apply a light "white+blue" wash over the entire yamato plastic. Even if it was great for artificial lights, it was not for sun light. So I clean the bluish wash and I applied the red on the cap to test, and I was happy with the red accent.

Since then, I bought Tamiya X2 White acrylic to test, but it wasn't better than the Tamiya white fine primer. As suggested to me, I think the best option is to completely cover the VF-1 with a white primer to have all the different parts in the same white.

We should ask @chyll2 about its custom VF-1X++ ?

The best seats for the youngest, I like it

1 hour ago, spanner said:

Hey Jason!

Got to inspect mine last night and I have to say it looks fantastic! Definitely worth the wait! I'll be putting in on display this weekend! I'll have to dig out some missiles for it too!

Many thanks again for making these!  

I can't wait to see your new display arrangement and pew pew lightings in actions !

That sounds like a great plan, please share your thoughts about the different methods. Unfortunately, I lately tend to apply the "prime and sand it until it looks good enough" rule with with a very high laziness.

For instance on this VF-1X++ parts, the hands had only 1 primer layer, the feet had 2 layers. Only the head cap has had something like 5-6 sanding/primer layers because I tried so many white to match the yamato white plastic ...

I am very impressed by the surface detailing and shapes made, but no idea of the figure itself, and google doesn't seem to give me a hint

probably those who are afraid of the pinkish gray SDF1!

Not much news, apart that for those who's wondering how does it look like to work on a transforming model.

I use noname primer for standard or large projects and tamiya primer for my favorite ones. 

Also as first layer I have had good results using floor vermish: put the parts in a bath of vermish then hang them outside to dry. Once the surface is dry, you can add a primer layer and wait 24h. After the first sanding, the parts should be almost smooth

58 minutes ago, chyll2 said:

thanks, it means I can have access to it since I am spray painting. So I just need to try out three possible Light gray from tamiya (irc, two AS and one TS)

Did you check @wmkjr the 0B and 0C conversion thread here ?

As described there are different greys used in both repaints:

VF-0B:  AS-16 light grey & AS-20 Insignia white

VF-0C:  TS-81 Royal light grey & AS-7 Neutral grey

@derex3592 I like the low viz version much better than the "official" schemes. For myself, I hope that Bandai will release the "low viz" version seen in the anime when the delta squadron launched from the deck. Kind of full dark grey theme.

@arbit Great use of electronics. Someday when it is so miniaturized that the electronic can be embarked,  I must try that.

Thanks for sharing this, now I am thinking of buying the Premium finish because I don't that much of spare time.

Free bump for a great seller!