Xigfrid
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Everything posted by Xigfrid
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I don't think so: in general when a model uses sprues it is most of the time rejected for High Def Acrylate because there would be too many printing supports. In fact I tried to validate most of my models and they were all rejected, so I gave up this material since then.
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That would be laughable ! But still I understand your reasoning!
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That would be the same price as if you buy it yourself +1€/1$ per model printed in HP WSF. Which in your case would be a single €/$ because the clear tips are in FUD, and the pylon in classic WSF
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Still looking at the HP wsf thread but no date is confirmed. Btw, I can order it myself and have shapeways send it directly to you if this is something you absolutely want. Remember that only the Black Hp Wsf is polished. Concerning the FUD material, I would say for a static display, it can be used for only the missiles. The pylon will need the slight elasticity of WSF to perfectly clip into the Bandai DX attachments. If you plan to remove/ change missiles often don't use FUD
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Well I agree that the shoulder design could be improved since the first V2, but I can't accept when you say that Bandai's designs are better... -None off my VF-25 has sturdy shoulders, in battroid mode they just sag down. And I need to put nail polish over and over -VF-171 CF shoulder mess ... erm ... erm ... The VF-30 and 31 look solid though, but it seems that the complete mecha were designed specially to make their transformation easier.
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That's clever, and gives me an idea of drilling the holding arm of my stand so the draken could be even closer to the sv-262.
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I would love to lead Arcadia to the 0B but honestly @wmkjr did all the job, I would need to have him to be my adviser then
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Ouch that is really serious bending issues. It looks like it has been stored into an oven... I can't imagine what and where this little drone went through. You can reshape everything with a hair dryer, use a ruler to straighten flat surfaces and fingers for curves. You will also need a lot of patience to fix things step by step and finally have everything aligned. Concerning the painting, I have less faith for an easy fix, but perhaps if you put a hot coat (thick layer) of TS-80 over the cracked paint, the solvent will "solder" back the cracked paint. @Jasonc the actual paint is TS-12 then TS-80 coat ? If the easy fix doesn't work, I guess you can sand the cracked paint, masking the red / black areas then put another coat of TS-12 spray.
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These 0B are a must have, really. And they can even transform:
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image reference
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From the album: VF-0B image references
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A few shoots made this weekend
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Hey that sounds like an epic custom! I would be happy with a copy of your decals.
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Just received as a gift a little photo studio, I had to make a quick test with the phone camera. I can't wait to make the photos again with this setup
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Really nice surface finish there! Don't forget to add a glossy finish layer on top of the grey primer if you want a more realistic look.
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Had some time to transform it to battroid, but couldn't take the camera out for a proper shooting, next time!
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I am glad to hear you receive them at last, please post a few pictures of the missiles once done, the clear tips should be sweet too! If you want a few good advices about preparing WSF for painting, I think that Jasonc recently made a breakthrough in this matter: you can read more about it here. I ordered the Mr Putty and will be testing this method on my next SW order
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Thanks mickyg, and I am also a very happy man! I wanted to add that there is absolutely no difference of hues, and that was a pleasant surprise for me knowing how difficult it is to repaint such a dark color as the 0D blue. If the Gundam eraser is alcohol based, that's normal it will wipe the Tamiya Lacquer paints since this is the only good way to remove the paint, I tried white spirit, enamel solvent, nothing really worked except a bit of alcohol on a paper tissu. I love Gunze paints, even if they are acrylic based, they are so easy to brush paint. I recently began to switch to Tamiya acrylic since Gunze will react with Tamiya clear sprays. Gunze are not supposed to reacts but I can't find what is the issue, perhaps this is specific to Gunze paint formula in Europe. For metallic paints, I would prefer to have the Tamiya spray version if available (sometime the metallic bits can be to big to my taste in Tamiyas sprays), if not I have been successful with using enamel metallic paint + satine or gloss acrylic coat to protect it
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Tried to make better pictures, but I have to say that they can't compared to wmkjr's
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I don't if I could stand in line for that long, seriously you deserve the glory The girl behind looked very interested and was taking pictures of the VF though!
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I am glad I grabbed a set, the missiles addons make the 262 looks slimmer... or something like giving more harmonious curves. I don't really like the little drakens because of their too flashy color, they look out of place on the wings.
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That's a great water effect, recently I was watching video tutorials about making the same thing for my Octo (once completed)
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Boiling water seems too risky indeed. Hair dryer works just fine for resin kits
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I don't have my copies yet, Jasonc perhaps there is a bit of resin blocking the top part to completely push inside the black part? What do you think?
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This came today, this is the classic VF-0B in white/red accents Space Proving Wing version. I need to give my special thanks to wmkjr whose thread inspired me to make another VF-0B conversion, to spanner for letting go one of his invaluable VF-0D for a reasonable price, wmkjr for having the skills and courage to make another conversion and also for making such a good job at painting, sticker detailing, etc This VF-0B is one of my dream that became true thanks to this amazing community, and I am thankful to be part of it too. Until I make a true photo shoot, here are a few shots from my phone. Perhaps wmkjr has better ones too to share.
