Xigfrid

1) Clean the excess of printing powder first, test that the parts can be assembled.

2) Dip the part in Future a few seconds, the let it dry 24h, that will seal the 3D material and prevent it to soak too much primer on the first layer

After these first steps, you can:

2) apply diluted future, will dry in minutes

3) apply prime, let dry overnight (primer really needs 24h to be hard underneath)

4) sand

repeat 2 to 4 times to taste before painting. To me, you can do this 2 times only if you plan to apply thick hot-coats of paint

Thanks guys, well the overall pod is around 35$, that includes both WSF part and the expensive FUD part. 

I used standard FUD for the speakers&projectoes details, But as you noticed the definition is top notch because I also used the optimal print orientation. I think that later option is still in Beta stage, not sure if anyone can use it. It comes semi-transparent, I primed it in grey to make the details pop. 

Well NZEOD, I am pretty sure Chuck's 31 is coming in last after the armored Arad. These E variants always come last ...

The gap is produced by the lower part of the pod not sitting flush once closed, it is fixed by adding inside a clamp to lock it in closed position.

In general, I use 0mm tolerance in general, 0.2mm when it really needs some clearance to avoid friction by example.

About the sprues, I really don't make it clean, I just add cylinder between the parts, and Shapeways engine makes the outside skin. That would be too much time consuming to make all the sprues really!

Thanks @no3Ljm

Here is the assembly of the speaker pod, every thing was fine. BUT there was an unexpected gap when the Speaker Pod was closed. With some massage it tends to close better, but still annoying.

Thankfully the fix was easy and I have already changed my 3D files to avoid it. I need to fix my copy manually or I can order the "fixed" versions in my next order (which is not soon)

The assembly is very straight forward. If it is really needed, I can make an assembly manual very quickly, so don't worry about it.

I was waiting the latest updates to announce it: I just got the new head and new shoulders assemblies and they are really nice. As you can see the shoulders hold very tight now

For primer and the base color, I just use the TS cans as is or lightly heated in hot water. For smaller details (metallic accents by example) I generally spray a small quantity of TS paint in a plastic bottle cap, so it can decant 3-4 min and I can brush paint it over the base color before it dries in the cap. I also use masking when necessary.
The acrylic colors are washed or brush painted. I don't have the required space to install an airbrush, I wish I had.

I am not particularly waiting a warmer/drier weather since I can spray indoor (with a lot of air flow for those wondering) and keep the paint to dry in a warm /dry place. I am waiting for the new replacement shoulder parts to arrive (together with the Speaker Pod hey:) so I can assemble them and have the whole destroid to be smoothed/primed and then painted.

I already choose the colors:
-Tamiya TS-46 Light Sand spray as a base color
-TS-42 Light Gun Metal for the metallic parts on the hands, feet and body
-bluish grey acrylic color for the rifle part of the hands
-off white acrylic color for the big laser guns

Little preview of the work destroid (Fireman version). This assembly uses the double ball joint shoulder, which is working great with this version since the hands end are light and doesn't carry any weight compared to the armed versions.

Tomorrow I will have the tougher shoulder assembly on the bench test.

I haven't a lot of faith in this regult, probably it would be a bit floppy too. But to be honest I am quiet interested by it being the only available toy at this scale of the regult. 

I have asked for my proxies if they can order it and they answered that it would be better to wait when it is released. But I have been asking myself what would happen if nobody actually pay the "pre-order". Well I won't take the risk and I would advise others not to too

35 minutes ago, Mommar said:

To be honest, despite the fact I decal-ed my original one both the VF-0S and VF-1S really don't need anything more than the Skulls and UN Spacy markings.  The White with Black and Yellow stripes are elegant in their simplicity.  I kind of regret the decals on my 0.

I would love to see your "decal-ed" VF-0A

The original Arcadia VF-0S had already a lot of printings: it looks great as is already. Arcadia would better make first Shin's VF-0A which had barely any markings.

Anyway, I always wanted an additional VF-0S, let see how much it goes

11 hours ago, SuperHobo said:

In 2018 I finally got all of the 1/60 VF-1s I've always wanted, most importantly it was Max and Milia. 

 

That Armored 1J pose is so nice!

Not 100% sure depending on the resin that Jasonc used, but cyanolit glue should be good for any resin kits.

If you don't mind disassembling the drone, you can also replace the complete part: either if Jasonc have a spare one to send to you or you can order a new  Laser at Shapeways

On the left the new design and on the right the flat/old design

I always felt the legs were to "flat" on my Workroid. And I always  wanted to make small fixes to one of my favorite design in Delta. So I just updated the design on Shapeways to what I call the "renewal version / version 2". I only tested the new legs design. I will be testing the new arm articulations when I receive the parts for the Destroid since they have 100% same functionality and 90% the same aesthetics. Thanks to a better use of sprues and printing volume (I am getting better at it!), the new parts are slightly cheaper now.

Here are the major fixs:

22 hours ago, arbit said:

In which I finished the Nautilus and accessories. Happy new year!

 

These make a pretty darn cool display in the night

I am in

7 hours ago, NZEOD said:

https://twitter.com/Torotorotorowa/status/946369193439510529

Thanks for the link, so another guy also tried the design in 1:72 scale. It doesn't look like a 3D printed though but rather a scratch build.

I finished the speaker pod and placed an order to test it. It would be composed of 2 models: one for the main body in WSF and the other one in FUD for the speakers details.
You will need to cut 8 rods (1mm diam) and one screw M1.7x6mm for assembly. Optional to cut 2 plastic sheets to obtain the "window" as seen in the anime.
It shouldn't need glue since the FUD parts would clip into the WSF bodies. I will let you know how well fit they are when I receive them.

That's pretty amazing all the stuff going here, most of them are out of my reach and that's great! 

Happy new year to all too.

The weathering and the mod is beautiful. However I don't like the way how the pod was designed. 

If I were to make this pod, it should be seamless once retracted, the right hand guns would retract more and would touch each over, even I would make the inner part so it "closes" the design as a tail. 

The left hand guns looks good, but they could eventually be mounted on an additional axis so they can be deployed downward in fighter mod, like a gun turret, ala sv-262 gunpod. 

I think @Sanity is Optional Is on this model, let see how far he goes!

Since I also made and painted the new Workroid legs (more curved) and I began to smooth the Cheyenne II, i had both out of the detolf so I decided to shoot side by side just to show off the slight but real differences between both designs. 

After much thoughts, I decided to redesign the complete shoulder articulations to reduce the number of articulation axis in order to drastically strengthen them. The posability should remain the same, I will probably test it with next order. 

What an update! I am happy for you, and I must say that it looks much better in real than in CAD

On 20/12/2017 at 7:38 PM, Sanity is Optional said:

Good luck, all those details are beyond what I can model up in CAD.

Working on it: so far so good: the model is almost printable. I am planning to make the external body in WSF and all the internal panels with speakers and intricate detailing in FUD. Still a few details to check though