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Xigfrid

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Posts posted by Xigfrid

  1. 8 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

    So I just realized how different the canard shape is from the early version.  Is that to fit better into place in battroid mode?

    Also, you know the next step, right?  Retractable landing gear! :D 

    Yes they are a bit different because of the new wings' folding shape. Now that you mention them, they can easily be straitened in a new version, or printed in SLA/DLP resin to obtain better surface details.

    My next step is the Gunpod.

    Landing gears ... hum that's quiet a challenge so I promise I will give it a try at my 30th sold VF-9 !

  2. 1 hour ago, eggy99 said:

    The VF-19 Adv had really nice deep panel lines, so I expect the YF-19 will be the same.

    It allowed for some really nice shading on my weathered VF-19 Adv.

    post-7871-0-31973400-1443409765_thumb.jpg

    I need to take a better set of photos of this. Currently this bad boy is wrapped in bubble wrap from the office move last year.

    Hey, isn't your neighbor's Evangelion figures that we can see ?  I really need to know what kind of job is yours :)

  3. 12 hours ago, wmkjr said:

    Is there any official reference pics of that VF-9's gunpod in fighter mode?

    In the game you can fire it in fighter mode, this is kind of official I think. Just like @valhary posted, the gunpod is located under the arms in fighter mode. I have already placed 2 magnets at this location that are meant to hold the gunpod. 

    I have no excuse for not making it except that the gunpod is large and would add even more to the price. 

  4. I have had a slightly different process for mine:

    1) I have assembled the whole valk, sanding the plastic directly a bit the rougher surfaces with a 6-steps nail buffer
    2) Apply white primer layer in fighter / gerwalk mode wait 24H to dry

    3) transform to battroid and apply another white primer layer, let dry 24h
    4) quick sanding with dremel 60 grit disc71vdgxtFnIL._SX425_.jpg (Low speed - light pressure on the tool)
    5) same with dremel 240 grit disc d3f61b57-f958-4b29-aa1f-4c873760659d_1.d(Low speed - light pressure on the tool)

    6) thorough sanding with dremel 120 grit EZ472SA detail abrasive brush xDremel_Medium_Detail_Abrasive_Brush_Det(Medium speed - standard pressure on the tool)

    Most surfaces are almost good. I will next apply another prime layer, but ignoring steps 4) and 5) and use the brush used in step 6). And then go to paint.

  5. One day we will be able to print perfect toys in color ! But yeah for now, this is a real pain to deal with the Standard plastic.

    Thankfully, until now, a lot of my customs didn't need to be perfectly prepared, such as the Vajras or the Destroids. This one, will need a lot of sanding, just like the X-9

  6. Exactly same question for my VF-9 ... I am planning at least 2, one would be fixed to fighter mode in Milia theme with a teenage Mirage on board as seen in Delta, the second, I am hesitating between a low viz (grey/dark grey/white) or the orange/white  training VF X-10

  7. Pre order is opened now! Two sets to choose:

    https://fext-hobby.myshopify.com/collections/owl-one/products/1-60-owl-one-armour-pre-order

    https://fext-hobby.myshopify.com/collections/owl-one/products/1-60-owl-one-armour-set-b-pre-order

  8. Since I am at it, here is my absolute short list recommended tools:

    -Modeling Sprue cutter: cut the sprues effortlessly in seconds
    -Modelcraft knife equipped with a "rounded blade" (like this one) : best blade shape to remove the remaining plastic from sprues in 1 cut, instead of a lot of sanding and buffing
    -Pin Vise with 1mm drill bit : just to make sure that the pre-drilled holes for the screws and pins are perfectly clean.
    -strong, yet small screwdriver:sometimes I can use tiny places to insert the screws, so the screwdriver shaft should be 3-4mm diameter max (magnetized preferably!)
    -flat plier to insert the pins
    -6-steps nail buffer : I use this to gently remove the excess of material if some parts don't sit flush

  9. @DarkArchon3000 I am sure you will not regret the standard plastic. To be honest, the professional plastic is more detailed and will save you 1 sanding/primer pass, so in the end the two accumulated makes the end result sharper.
    BUT (always one) Pro plastic printing direction cannot be determined, in general Shapeways use the same print direction as Standard plastic when specified, but if for any weird reason Shapeways choose the wrong direction you may have very bad print lines compared to the standard plastic with optimum print direction. Sorry if I am too technical.

    @arbit I wouldn't call me pro until I can earn a decent living from it ;p I still have hopes tough !

    Last time I ordered the screws and pins from the same guy regan0331
    PINS: M1 length from 4mm up to 12mm and M1.5x20 (
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-M1-5-M2-Bearing-steel-Parallel-Pins-Dowel-Pin-Cylindrical-Positioning-pin/172272460618?)
    SCREWS: always choose "steel", any other material for the screws would end with broken screws bits in the plastic which are a pain to remove.
    Flat head : M1.7 x 6mm, M1.7 x 8mm and M1.7 x 10mm (
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-M1-2-M1-4-M1-5-M1-7-304-Stainless-steel-Cross-Countersunk-Flat-Tapping-Screws/182023547921?)
    Round head : M1.7 x 6mm, M1.7 x 8mm and M1.7 x 10mm (https://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-6-M1-7-M2-Stainless-Steel-304-Phillips-Cross-Pan-Round-Head-Tapping-Screws/172205389532?)

    I am not sure if I used the round head 8mm or 10mm, in the doubt you should buy all of them considering the price.

     

  10. Thanks all fo the support :)

    Additional info for the US residents, you can also order from EXO (aka Plastic Cretins on Facebook) in clear resin the VF-9 Clear Canopy for 5$, the male pilot 2$, the female pilot 2$ and the battroid head 2$. He also makes a lot of 3D models of his own, that I highly recommend.

  11. AUGUST UPDATE (added on page 1)

    Link to download the 3D printed parts:

    https://www.shapeways.com/shops/xigfrid3dshop?section=VF-9&s=0

    NB: The removable Wheels, Display stand adapters are optional. The Canopy can be printed in Smooth Detail Plastic and sanded to be so-so clear, it should be printed by a resin printer in clear resin and it will be clearer and stronger.

    I recommend contacting EXO (member of this forum also known as Plastic Cretins, or PM me for his email) for US residents to print the clear Canopy for 5$, female pilot 2$, male pilot 2$ and battroid head 2$. For other countries you can try www.3dhubs.com. Here is the  STL 3D file of my VF-9 canopy.

     

    @Jasonc When you print the FUD parts (link https://www.shapeways.com/product/KK2ZC7QCB/vf-9-high-detail-parts-with-pilot?optionId=66894145), you will obtain the cockpit interior, seat, battroid head and one pilot. Select the "Large" version to order the male pilot or the "Medium" version to obtain the female pilot.

    You can also browse my 1/60 Misc section to order packs of 4 pilots (2 female, 2 male). Note that they fit the Arcadia VF-0. They don't fit the DX Bandai VF-31. You can use them for the Arcadia VF-1 but you will need to shorten the legs by 1 or 2 mm.

     

    @DarkArchon3000, @Sanity is Optional I made them available in Professional plastic, depending on the size it will double the price unfortunately...
    I don't know if all the parts would benefit to be printed in Professional plastic over White Processed versatile plastic though

  12. I received the new parts a few days ago but I could assemble them only tonight. 

    I am very satisfied by the result. I want to enhance the battroid adapter but that’s pretty much all. I have been very busy and tired so I will upload everything shapeways next day. 

    A few pictures to make your wait easier.

     

    D1E3D996-C84C-4DE1-B8F5-C4799651D38D.jpeg

    A24772FB-4F98-4C79-88EE-DBCEB0343D30.jpeg

    AAD9879F-B2EF-461D-AF41-163EA9030E8C.jpeg

    7B875FCE-EEA7-4A0E-883F-3CCFFCF65F1A.jpeg

    0545407F-5FD9-44C8-89FD-F48D09C03E88.jpeg

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