Vince

Tamiya thinner rub with q-tip, do not soak. easy off works too -- for the most part, leave on in covered container at least a few hours and use a old tooth brush, easy off might leave little pieces stuck at corners.

I like to leave a little piece of the tree as a handle, dip the clear parts (canopy) and let them sit up right on top for a piece or tissue paper to dry. if I mess it up, I just clean it with some windex and do it again. coating both sides make it a lot easier to paint.

All you need is to try it once to figure out how . it's really not that hard. Tamiya make a candy apple~ish spray in can only, it is for car models and I think it is kinda transparent and could work (?) I'm just thinking of a lazy way to do this, paint or spray the handle end of the saber with white, and then move down towards to end a little and apply gray, and repeat a couple of time with dark shade of gray. finally spray clear green all over, with more layers away from the handle. I haven't done this, but I need to give it a try. you can spray with a mask with a soft edge, if the mask is not touching the target area, so you can have a little more control of the spray can. I usually just do pre-shading and be done with it, it is easier than it sounds. I use metallic gray, for the weapons and hands, and I think you will have to mix color to get the color for the gun on a VF, good thing is the color numbers are usually listed on the instruction sheet -- for Gunze, you can find a conversion chart for Gunze and Tamiya paint online. p.s. think about different shades of green (?) http://tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=72

I was just think maybe printing these mask on sticker sheets.

There's got to be a support group for people that saw bad anime?

I'm gonna give this a shot, anybody feel free to jump in. I have no idea which Tamiya green you have in mind, but spray cans and bottles usually don't match exactly maybe because the sprays have already thinned properly. For light saber green, or yellow, blue, red.. etc., use white base color, spray your choice of thinned clear color, I think the clear is suppose to thinner than solid color(?) spray in layers along the rod. more coats towards the business end of the saber, like flame is brighter at the source and darker color along the edge. kinda like doing the Max technique with totally clear top color. I'm sure there are a lot of sites with this info.

Just started Fracture, the bad guys keep coming. need online campaign, more ammo. oh, bad camera angle sometimes... but it's pretty good.

I've seen worst, and no way I would see that again.

you kinda got it already, after removing the original color and primed, base coat with flat or semi flat black, spray the metallic silver and top with clear yellow/orange, or metallizer on top of black, buff and you're done. model master has very good metallizer line. pretty much just like about every book will tell you the same thing. note on metallizers: clear top coat will change the final out come, so be careful.

no pix, but it's about as long as a zero.

I'm in SE U.S. shipped ems was a little below $60 a piece with the exchange rate, I guess.

HLJ is taking pre-order for vf25s again.

no it isn't...

me too, and I keep track of where everything is with a notebook. not to mention the plastic boxes are water prove too.

you're right, who knows how long it takes to have the new batch. I usually order two MG at a time, or more if they are on sales. Hasegawa Macross kits I have at least three of each with exceptions of the vf-1 fighters. I guess half of my stuffs are Gumdam - 80% MG, 10% HG, 10 % PG - I still have 6 w0 customer pg in boxes. and probably 6 pg zaku in boxes? need to do inventory again, I'm moving next month. The rest split between Macross and real world stuffs. I'd like to build them all, but working always get in the way.

Dude where you get your stuffs? Hasegawa vf-1 fighter should not cost more then $30, $20 at a few sites. Have fun!

I open one of mine and putting together to see how it look, so far only got done with the front end. I can say it is design as well as many MG kit, but playing with it too much will surely break it. I would like the hip joint to be cast metal rather than ABS, and individual fingers would be great. Worst landing gears I've seen, but on par with Gundam kits. Now that they have done it, I wish they go back to make 19, 21/22, that would be cool... please... somebody... Another thought, there is not any way for pilot to get in/out in battroid mode is it? It bad enough to be in the a** of the mecha already.

If a bit over $400 is ok, I suggest hp2207h and a set of desktop BOSE speaker. Most places sell hp2207h for $350 or so and the smaller ones are below $300, they are not the fastest but have the best image and the h's are hd monitors with hdmi input. The desktop BOSE goes for $100 at most places, I've replaced all my pc speakers with BOSE, best sound without the need of a separate subwoofer, save I lot of space. Go to the store to check them out.

mine are here today, exactly a week after shipping notice sent.

activities on this broad would slow down

How are the cockpit detail in the EX kits? can anyone tell me? I don't recall Bandai ever didn't much detail in the cockpit, tinting the canopy might be a good idea. I just want to be the one to do it.

I've just beat Vader, almost done the at the end and it freeze ... twice. I'm trading it back in as soon as I finish it.

I actually placed my order after someone here said it on available for pre-order, maybe a few days later. The same as I pre-ordered most other kits from HLJ, I usually hear the pre-order from this board first. Only once have I been push off of the first batch, but I always order at least two.

was the guy only talking about stuffs available in English? sorry I couldn't read the whole thing.

Mine just shipped, I've never have problem preorder from them. Ems cost as much as an extra kit. Sorrry about the repost, trying to type on me phone.