Vince

seems like there will be one by wave other than this, this one sure look like Hasegawa's, they do have the license afterall.

Thank you! just what I wanted to know.

I wonder how the relationship between athurun, and cagalli will play out? It would be pretty sorry if it just end the way it is now.

I only like those actually have a good story line. I only hate myself when I get upset and uneasy -- for days at a time, after reading/watching any touching development. I am a fully grown softie.

One is immature if one likes to watching all "animated" pictures..... Anime and scifi modeling -- modeling in general are good hobbies, much prefer over drinking and partying by me.

that depends on how much video ram you have and what os you're using. the gpu doesn't matter that much in this case. first of all, don't get the cable from wal-mart. get the ar one at bestbuy and the quality is much better. trust me, it work pretty good on my dlp. second, if you video has less than 258mb of ram, don't try any resolution other than vga but i maybe wrong. i like newegg a lot, and the shipping is really fast. my suggestion is pair a nvidia card with a amd cpu or non intel north/south bridge, pair a ati card for intel cpu and intel chip set, this seen to be more stable from what i have seen. third, if you are running window xp, you can set from display properties the use wide screen. otherwise, your only choice is 4:3. lastly, the dvi out from the video card is for moniter, you can connect it to the tv's dvi port or the 15 pins video port. hdmi can only be use to input hd signal, upconvert dvd, turner, etc.. unless you get a high end card with hd output, which i don't know of one, but i'm sure they exist. or you can just switch a mac or a unix box.

kind of off topic, VE-1 is available for pre-order at hlj

Oh, Future is great too.

yeah, thin and even layers. Is there any chance you could get some acrylic? Maybe Model Master? I perfer the MM acrylic flat clear for airbrushing, even over the Gunze stuff.

it's been a long time since I use anything from Humrol, your problem is the top layer is too quick.

but that's the bandai kit, the lighting kit is ready not fiber optics?? i got that kit too

I think it will be cool when a model kit is lighted. Optic is a strand of flexible glass basically, any light source will work. The most compact setup I can think of is use a low power LED as the source. Only problem is optic transmits light down the length of the strand, light only comes out at the end and not the side(or very little). It works great on scale windows or dots, jet engine I don't know. For lighting jet engine and such, I'd use light sheets.

apply in thinner layers might help.

Anyone know where to get some? By the way jorawar_b, have you thought about using light sheet?

Frist the gundam oyw, now mkII, will it be possible they are going the make individual fingers for up come mg's?? that'll be nice

the web browser works find just a bit lower than my other wireless devices, i can't figure out how to set home page. didn't the psp come with a 90 days warranty like the ps2 does?

U.S. 2.0 is out

Actually, installing LEDs require the use of resistors to match the output, here is the formula if you don't already have it: Resistor_Value = (Power_Supply_Voltage - Working_Voltage) / Desired_Current_Flow ohms = (PSv - Wv) / amps 1amps = 1000ma basically, a big enough resistor with some power flow with light the LED to some degree. I say if it is going a model kit whick probably mean very little access to the light itself afterward, do it right to start with. I think LED usually don't burn out, until the resistor is not large enough?

why not put a led in it?

A Japanese friend from Tokyo once told me, there are English sign all over Tokyo but most people can't understand and they didn't care, it was cool because there western. But it was a long time ago, hopefully its different now.

Catch it, it is ready funny, but you probably won't get half the jokes if you don't speak cantonese. I think those movies (especially the earliest ones) Chow made in the 90' are way funnier without as much special effects, it the way Chow says it make his joke so funny, and they make Chow the funniest actor in HK. He deserve to make as much as he does, which I believe is way more than any actors in Hollywood does?

too much thinning agent will pretty much desolve any type of paint anyway. I like all Model Master color, I think their Federal Standard colors are better than everybody else's. MM acrylics are very good choice for any use. MM enamels has great color selection, however they are a bit thick for my taste, especially for model of 1/100 and 1/144 -- the kind of stuffs we do.

319264[/snapback] pretty much, maybe I should say it this way: since lacquer thinner is stronger than either acrylic or enamel thinner, it is possible for the thinned lacuqer paint to soften and desolve the weaker acrylic or enamel base paint (eating away the base color). However, it is possible to apply lacquer on top of acrylic or enamel paint. All you need to do is make sure the base coat is completely dry, apply a few thinner layers of lacquer top coat, after the first layers dried of at least cured then apply more thin layers if need.

I usually use the bottle acrylic Model Master clear flat, I've been have good result so far. Even Testers make MM, MM paints (FS and clear) are accually much higher quality than the Testers stuff, at least from what I've seen. MM clear spray cans are all lacquer, meaning it can melt your base coat if apply too thick, just be careful with them.

lacquer base: either acrylic or enamel on top is ok acrylic base: either acrylic or enamel on top is ok, lacquer will desolve the acrylic base color enamel base: either acrylic or enamel is ok on top, acquer will desolve the acrylic base color apply in thin layers.