Jump to content

EXO

Members
  • Posts

    17609
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by EXO

  1. I forgot. The mold of the VF-0A is identical to the VF-OS, except the head right? Why the price increase then? It is because the 0S is more popular and more fans will buy it, that's for sure.

    Pretty much I guess. You can think of it as a business decision or a conspiracy, depending on how angry you are. But it's still far from the $60 price point you originally thought about.

  2. You have to factor the fact that Arcadia uses top Manufacturers... the rising cost of of those manufacturers and materials, outbidding people that want the same scheduled manufacturing, the cost of running a business in Japan, packaging (including designers and packing).

    Just look at the cost of similarly sized third party transformers with similar quality and then imagine a lower production number . Yes, the people that buy Third Party Transformers do outnumber Macross fans that buy high end product and then imagine if those people pay licenses. In fact compare those 3P transformers toys and then imagine how many times they get to reissue them and then rerelease them in different colors without changing the mold.

  3. Lol. There's a huge difference between customizing, kit bashing and scratchbuilding. What's needed here is straight out scratch building.

    Annd I don't see the big deal about people complaining about not getting a faithful TV version SDF-1. People were thrown for a curve ball. To expect people not to say anything would be be the dumb part.

  4. They're just taking pitches for a sequel. Sony just came off a horrible summer. With the latest craze for cinematic universes, they'll be putting out feelers for anything that might be viable... (robotech), but they won't have the budget for a lot of these projects.

  5. obviously is not
    has been 3 versions the 1/72 was the first for the hasegawa model kit after that a release 1/48 for the yamato and finally the 1/60 for vf v2

    You forgot one! The MWCon 2014 Exclusive... The Humdinger! :lol:

    28a5f2s.jpg

    Here's the 1/48 version

    20j30k3.jpg

  6. What thickness of plastic do you think would be needed to make templates of a stencil for permanent storage? I'm thinking you could do that just to have it, and then use the template to cut out whatever masking material you're going to use. So, hold it over Parafilm or masking tape to cut out the shape into the masking medium.

    I'm looking at the parafilm and it looks too flimsy to me. I say just get some transparent vinyl if you're going to cut it by hand yourself. That was just me looking thru what I had at the time to finish a custom.

    Yeah, I remember that job EXO, it came out great! - MT

    Thanks!

  7. oh... And don't forget to use transfer tape. If it's a small graphic, you can just use drafting or masking tape. You can detack the tape by sticking it to your clothes before you put it on the mask.

  8. Ah... I see what you mean now. That's a pretty good point. That's always been a struggle when interpreting line art. Is that line suppose to be straight or is that just the way they drew the line in free hand. Meaning the hand does a pivot when drawing lines. I actually did a version where the side of the shuttle was "bubbled" or had a slight curve. I wish I would have saved those versions if I knew this was going to come up. But looking at some other ships or drawings in the books and how they were interpreted as toys and models in the past, looking at other sources such as animation, and basically just going for what will look good best at the end, I decided to go with the straight sides. There's also some other things that had to be redone, such as should the edges of the door and windows be smooth or sharp? Believe or not, they made such a huge difference... Having the sharp angles on the doors made it look so boring and then having both the body and the doors have rounded edges made it look like an RV.

    Here's some shots from the anime that helped me decide which way to go. Oh... and also, these shots made me want to add paneling, but there wasn't enough information for me to do it.

    post-151-0-50852300-1441748609_thumb.png post-151-0-70812300-1441748615_thumb.png post-151-0-25562000-1441748622_thumb.png post-151-0-34981700-1441748628_thumb.png

  9. hrmmmm just checked out the line art and forgive me, but it looks much to squared off. Needs rounder, softer lines to it.

    I think it's just the lighting on the render but I rounded off every corner according to the line art...

    post-151-0-59779400-1441735831_thumb.pngpost-151-0-82579900-1441735850_thumb.png

    Neptune, do you have completed one yet? I would love to see one next to a VF-1. I am guessing those are CG pics.

    All we have right now is this comparison...

    post-151-0-25843500-1441736017_thumb.png

  10. I use adhesion promoter but not when I use primer. Usually when I use primer, it's to fix and smooth out the surface so I know I'll be continuously sanding and applying primer or surface putty. If the surface doesn't need prepping save from light sanding and cleaning then you can go straight from adhesion promoter to the base color. I say base color because you have to spray the area before the promoter dries. You can't use it in one area and then change color and expect the AP to still work.

    Adhesion promoter is great for customizing toys to where you want to keep the plastic bare and add graphics, like a stripe on the legs of a 1/60 Yamato/Arcadia VF-1. It's clear so it won't look like it's bleeding out like primer sometimes does. Sometimes you want to keep the bare plastic to minimize scratching when transforming. Over all, AP is not really necessary for every project.

    I also use the Duplicolor line. I love the acrylic enamel line. Too bad it's only basic colors but the way it sprays is pretty awesome and compared to the price of hobby paints it's really cheaper even though the quality is just as good or even better. I usually only use them as a base coat and use hobby paint for detail or more specific colors. Don't ever use auto paint primer on a styrene kit though. Primer them with a hobby brand primer first and then you can use these paints on top. Some auto paint will eat weaker plastics and it's a chore to fix...

  11. And we can make 'other' SDFs! They don't all look exactly the same, so the minor differences could mean making multiple UN Spacy ships to fill out that Super Long Distance Colony Fleet.

    That right there ^^^

    Or to me, just the fact that it's going to become part of Macross collecting history... The time Hasegawa released that one model kit that mixed the 2 Macross(es?), so I've come to decide that I'm going to build it the way it is, exactly like the box art...

    Plus THE BOX ART alone is enough reason to get the kit! I mean c'mon....Tenjin!!! I'm wondering why they released a picture of the art without the text on it. Will it come with a mini poster?

    I'll just make a complete 1/4000 TV SDF-1 kit to complement this and the DYRL one. :D

×
×
  • Create New...