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EXO

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  1. oh... And don't forget to use transfer tape. If it's a small graphic, you can just use drafting or masking tape. You can detack the tape by sticking it to your clothes before you put it on the mask.
  2. lol... I meant Autobot symbol. I actually just used a transparent adhesive masking material. I think I got it from micromark. But I put shipping tape on top of the paper that I printed the pattern on so the paper won't stick to the masking film and tear. You just have to be really good with that exacto knife. http://www.micromark.com/parafilm-m,7551.html
  3. Here's a hood that I painted with stencils. The only decal was the decepticon symbol. Everything was hand cut, traced from a design I photocopied.
  4. Already in the modeling stages.
  5. Ah... I see what you mean now. That's a pretty good point. That's always been a struggle when interpreting line art. Is that line suppose to be straight or is that just the way they drew the line in free hand. Meaning the hand does a pivot when drawing lines. I actually did a version where the side of the shuttle was "bubbled" or had a slight curve. I wish I would have saved those versions if I knew this was going to come up. But looking at some other ships or drawings in the books and how they were interpreted as toys and models in the past, looking at other sources such as animation, and basically just going for what will look good best at the end, I decided to go with the straight sides. There's also some other things that had to be redone, such as should the edges of the door and windows be smooth or sharp? Believe or not, they made such a huge difference... Having the sharp angles on the doors made it look so boring and then having both the body and the doors have rounded edges made it look like an RV. Here's some shots from the anime that helped me decide which way to go. Oh... and also, these shots made me want to add paneling, but there wasn't enough information for me to do it.
  6. I think it's just the lighting on the render but I rounded off every corner according to the line art... All we have right now is this comparison...
  7. I use adhesion promoter but not when I use primer. Usually when I use primer, it's to fix and smooth out the surface so I know I'll be continuously sanding and applying primer or surface putty. If the surface doesn't need prepping save from light sanding and cleaning then you can go straight from adhesion promoter to the base color. I say base color because you have to spray the area before the promoter dries. You can't use it in one area and then change color and expect the AP to still work. Adhesion promoter is great for customizing toys to where you want to keep the plastic bare and add graphics, like a stripe on the legs of a 1/60 Yamato/Arcadia VF-1. It's clear so it won't look like it's bleeding out like primer sometimes does. Sometimes you want to keep the bare plastic to minimize scratching when transforming. Over all, AP is not really necessary for every project. I also use the Duplicolor line. I love the acrylic enamel line. Too bad it's only basic colors but the way it sprays is pretty awesome and compared to the price of hobby paints it's really cheaper even though the quality is just as good or even better. I usually only use them as a base coat and use hobby paint for detail or more specific colors. Don't ever use auto paint primer on a styrene kit though. Primer them with a hobby brand primer first and then you can use these paints on top. Some auto paint will eat weaker plastics and it's a chore to fix...
  8. I know... sad that the connection wouldn't work. It would have been fun to switch those ships up... FYI, I'm still making a 1/3000 SDF-1 but I think designing it to be fully transformable will take up some time. Could take a year before completion.
  9. I'm still doing that.... if I want it for myself, it'll get done! But I'm cancelling the Prometheus and the Daedalus for the 1/3000 Yamato...
  10. Going to slowly turn this one into the 1/4000 TV SDF-1 thread...
  11. That right there ^^^ Or to me, just the fact that it's going to become part of Macross collecting history... The time Hasegawa released that one model kit that mixed the 2 Macross(es?), so I've come to decide that I'm going to build it the way it is, exactly like the box art... Plus THE BOX ART alone is enough reason to get the kit! I mean c'mon....Tenjin!!! I'm wondering why they released a picture of the art without the text on it. Will it come with a mini poster? I'll just make a complete 1/4000 TV SDF-1 kit to complement this and the DYRL one.
  12. They tried that with the Yamato Gn-u dou line. Failed. They're doing what they do, anything else... People will ask for what they're doing now.
  13. I was thinking this guy eats a lot of sea urchin...
  14. The conversion kit might cost more than the Hasegawa kit itself because it's all the major parts of the ship. Body, legs and the main gun... I'm really shocked Hasegawa did this. I think Arcadia or Yamato brought up this option also after they did their movie version.
  15. After friction over the budget on 'Captain America: Civil War,' the studio's film guru threatened to leave Marvel until Disney CEO Bob Iger intervened with a new plan. http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/heat-vision/marvels-civil-war-why-kevin-820147
  16. EXO

    Hi-Metal R

  17. I've been using Duplicolor Spray cans for a top coat. They're the only ones that I can find that have matte. I'm actually liking it a lot. Cheaper than Tamiya per volume and they're acrylic enamels so they're kinda tough, specially because they're made for cars. They probably won't last as long as Future... I've had the same bottle forever, in fact it's my first bottle of future I've ever bought, but sometimes I prefer to just spray than to mess with cleaning the airbrush. Again, please test it out before you cover your models and kits with it. They have them under Acrylic Enamel label now but I'm pretty sure they're the same fornulation as the wheel clear coat. http://www.duplicolor.com/product/premium-enamel
  18. I had problems with the connections. the magnets just weren't strong enough. I also decided to make the entire 1/3000 instead that's why I have a lot of the TV version modeled already...but it won't come out until probably Cap comes out with his. But I'll continue with my project even if it turns out to be a one off. I just have too many commissions before it. Gotta pay the bills! In fact one of those commissions should be announced this weekend.
  19. The issue of scale is just a can of worms when discussing it concerning Macross.
  20. Nope... just checked. Macross The First is definitely the DYRL SDF-1 with the Prometheus and Daedalus installed. Well, I have a lot of the TV SDF-1 modeled, I wonder if I can just resize the necessary parts to fix this. I have mine ordered so we'll find out.
  21. Can it be the Macross the First version?
  22. Excellent observations Scyla!
  23. The pilot comes with the Weapons pack upgrade. They overlooked it, I guess. The 1/48s come with the pilots. https://www.hlj.com/product/HSG6/Sci
  24. Is there a link where Wave 1 and Wave 2 details are listed? I'm looking at the Kickstarter page and all they have are the goals and a lot of the banners with links are broken. Actually all of them are gone.
  25. I actually won that 171 resin kit from the MWCon Customs contest. I sold it because I thought I can make a better one with clear canopy, pilot, radome and fin, which wasn't the prize. I don't even think it was available yet. Definitely on my short list because it's one of my favorite valkyries.
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