Ghadrack

Sounds to me as though it may have been a dealer option from Yamato, if they were having packaging complaints from dealers about the velcro tabs damaging the packaging in humid areas, they may have let the retailers option to get the boxes with or without velcro. The other possibility, and probably the more likely, is that they may have run low on Velcro circles and just sent out a couple batches without it while they waited for a shipment since it is a very minor part of the packaging. Either way, it is a pretty small difference. For what it is worth, so far all of mine have come with velcro: VF-1S Roy VF-1A Max VF-1S Low Vis VF-1S Hikaru VF-1J W/Fast Packs

When I look at those pictures closely it appears to me that the lighting probably has skewed the colors pretty far off, look at the booster and the head lasers, they look gold. I would imagine that under normal light or in your hands they look darker. All I know is that I am giddy I can't wait to get mine! This is gonna be another great year for Macross fans, At the very least we have the Armored 1J, Q Rau, 1/48 M&M's and I would be shocked unless they have ditched it altogether, if we don't see the Monster later on this year. Good stuff Keep up the good work Yamato!

One other point, who is to say what type of wounds he actually sustained? Maybe I haven't seen it in a while, but from recollection they show the damage to the valkyrie, they show something in the seat which we later come to realize is supposed to be blood, but there is no telling if he just got some shrapnel blown through the cockpit. After having to penetrate not only the armor of the valkyrie, but the interior cockpit wall, then the reinforced ejector seat I think it is more likely that he just got shrapnel wounds in the back. Given his stubborn nature I didn't have any problem suspending any disbelief to think that he could have toughed it out long enough to make it back to see Claudia one last time. I am an old sap, but I thought it was a pretty emotional sequence and it served to show the audience the kind of affection that those two characters shared "behind the scenes" so to speak.

I have: 1/48 : 5, 2 sets of FP's and the 1J with FP That's it. I plan to pick in the 1/60 Q Rau and Armored 1J for posing, and I am strongly leaning towards picking up the 1/60 Elintseeker & Ostich before they disappear. The M&M 1/48's are on my shopping list without question. I really like both the 1/60 and the 1/48 scale toys but I just don't have room for all of them. Gotta pick and choose....

Most of them were originally sold at MSRP of around $27.99 in stores or whatever discount you could find if memory serves me correctly. Obviously that price varied by market and retailer, but in my area they were between 26 and 28 dollars excluding sale prices.

Just got mine today Kit looks great, on close inspection the parts are all fantastic I am really really pleased with the kit Now I just need a rainy week to put it together Thanks a ton Valkyrie!

I am not sure what the female figure with the "Sold Out" stamped across it is, I was sifting through the little nooks and crannies of the Yamato site trying to see if there were any leaks on these new things we have to look forward to according to Graham :) , anyhow, I didn't recognize it. When I tried right clicking the image to get a name of the .gif file, hopefully a clue about what it was it indicated that that pic was created or posted today, so maybe that 1/60 Monster picture isn't old news after all.

I found this picture under the "Special Content" section of the Yamato site, Yamato Wonderfest 2003 pictures In the center row, on the far right hand side I see what appears to be a 1/60th scale Monster sculpt, unpainted. To the left of the monster you can see a man's shoulder that would give some idea of the scale compared to a human. In front of the Monster is a placard that says Macross Zero though. Is it an early scupt of the 1/60? Anyone know what this is or seen a better picture of it elsewhere? I bet this has already been discussed but I didn't see anything obvious when i did my search through the boards..

I tend to agree with the other guys here, At this stage in the game the only real differences are aesthetic. Pick the one that you like the best and you won't be disappointed. The 1-A and the 1-S have very little difference, many like the 1-S because it is like an enhanced "Jetfire", many prefer the 1-A because it isn't The 1-J has some differences, swappable hands, a very different looking paint job, but the quality of the toys is uniform, they feel good in your hand and look great on a shelf.

Wow, that is pretty spectacular, I thought this thread was gonna be a joke on someone when it first started but that is really cool. I love cheesy horror flicks and I have seen several of the previous Leprechaun movies and I have to say that when I saw the advertisements for this one, I thought to myself that it was going to be more of the same. Shoes..Shoes..... Anyhow, I will definitely scope it out. Congratulations on the acheivement, getting a movie written and prodcued is a major accomplishment and a big step. Congratulations!!!

LOL, Ever hear of Blue Submarine Number 6? They released each episide, one at a time for over 20 dollars per episode, then, later on they released the collections. It has been done before, and it will undoubtedly happen again, never put it past the scumbags to try to rake the money out of the fans. That being said, if they do release this stateside I will buy the set, but I am not going to wait 2 years to see the thing, bootleggers are a sad fact of life, if people want something and are willing to pay for it, and the production companies don't fill that need, someone will whether they be internet pirates or bootleggers selling hard copies it all comes down to people obtaining unlicensed product through improper channels. Trying to place some moral high value on stealing for free over paying for stolen goods is sorta like the old saying about arguing on the internet..... you know the one.

Yeah I don't see any flex-points on that VF-0 on the stand and it appears to be on the standard Hasegawa show base, that looks like a really nice model kit to me.

A trusty E-tailer of import games that I have used dozens and dozens of times with positive results is www.tronixweb.com I have been importing games through them for the last six years, they are about the only place I use.

Stunning...... I am speechless, I might need to break down and pick up and extra 1-S to make one of these, Wow........

Nice kit, and good job putting it together and getting it painted I used to have the same problem with paint granulation, it can also be caused by humidity exceeding the recommended limits on the brand of paint. (humidity in the 90+% range all summer here Yuck ) In the past when I have had this happen on a nice kit, and something you might consider if you have a rainy day or two and feel like farting around with touching up your valk, would be to find some really fine sandpaper, like 400-600 grit ( The stuff that looks like construction paper the grit is so fine) and lightly sanding the parts of the kit that got granulated paint flecks. This will scuff your paint job all to heck, but it turns into a great basecoat as it is the same color as you intend the model to be. Then dilute/thin out a bottle of the paint that you will use to recover the affected areas. It is a ton of work but if you got nothing better to do some day it might be a fun project. Your pictures look great I really like the way you set the valk up on the stand Oh, and if you don't have access to an airbrush, as I didn't for the longest time, I found that the best way to get smooth coats of paint is to invest in a couple art brushes with very fine bristles and to paint in multiple thinned out coats. The thinner the paint (At least for me) and the more careful I am are the less chance there is of having bristle-lines and stroke patterns show up in the fnished product. And I don't mean that as criticism, your kit looks really cool, just a technique you might like to play with sometime.

Sandpaper, a putty Knife a a tube of Bondo brand auto repair putty, it will take some time to sculpt/sand that wing but it is very fixable. That first missile pod is just toast man, but I truly think you can fix the wing, it may not be absolutely perfect but with some effort I would bet dollars to doughnuts you can make it look decent enough to not be highly noticeable from 2 feet away. Good luck, sorry to hear about your misfortune.

Most hardware stores that sell plumbing supplies will carry ABS glue, this is a product specifically for gluing ABS plastics together. This stuff will form a permanent bond by literally melting the plastic together and fusing it back into a single piece. As such you must use it sparingly and carefully, it takes 24 hours to dry fully. If you put a big glob of it on your valk it will make an unsightly mess so you have to be careful. When I get home if I remember to look I will try to post the Manufacturers name, but there is no better glue in the world for ABS plastic.

Ouch, I am sorry to hear about that man, I am so paranoid about breaking mine that it takes me 45 minutes to transform the things. Anyhow, I only have two potential repair solutions for you. Both are going to involve some intensive labor. First one, would be to try to repair the broken valk. You can carefully try to glue with either Cyanoacrylate or ABS glue, either of these will melt/fuse the plastic together and create as strong a bond as you are going to get in a plastic glue, you will have to very carefully glue and then wait at least 24 hours before putting any stress on the plastic to ensure maximum hardness of the plastic. You will need to do some minor touch up painting if this method workks, but you should be able to conceal the flaw nicely if it does. This may do the trick, if not then my other idea would be: Second, locate either a person with a broken 1/48 that will sell or give it to you for parts, or buy the cheapest 1/48 you can find (Probably the Max version) and cannibalize it for the replacement part that you need. I am assuming here that the Low Vis, is important enough to you to do this. Then you will need to repaint the part as closely to the original as you can. Obviously this will be tough, but the Low Vis camo scheme actually might help cover any minor variances that you end up with. This would be a serious time consuming project that would doubtlessly cost you more in man hours and effort than buying a new Low Vis would cost you for the time being (They are limited edition so they won't be replaceable for long I think) Gooid luck and sorry again to hear about your misfortune.