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Rock

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Everything posted by Rock

  1. Rock
    Not much work done with Sping housekeeping/maintenence taking priority. Time was not on my side and I wasn't able to get back to the kit. Bit of a fubar in the process. So with oils you have a large window for tweaking and reworking them. Sadly, this window closes after about a full week. While yes, mineral spirits can be used to play with fully dried oils the ammont of thinner it needed, and how long I have to let it sit wet on the topcoat is too great for the thin acrylic clear coat barrier to withstand. Touchups were needed. I used the chance of touching up the basecoat to free-hand airbrush some of the original color over areas that were a bitntoo strongly weathered. I still need to repeat the effect on the black, and grays. Masked up and got some of the details painted in too.
  2. Rock
    1/100 IMS Led Mirage V3. 3007 Delta Belun ceremonial version. + Light Veils, Lance, and larger head crest.
  3. Rock
    Time for a filter. Round 1. After the decals I sprayed some Alclad II Aqua clear (acrylic based topcoat) clear over the decals to seal them and prevent the next steps from finding the edges of their carrier film. I also go over the 'white' to help prevent any extreme staining should I wish to reverse the following effects. Once the clear has fully dried, I use cheap Hobby Lobby artist oils and a toothpick to dab the surface with dots of assorted colors. Most the time I only do this step with white, and a variation of the body color to keep the effect suttle. I really wanted to push the variation as I feel this valk is a bit boring as is. A full color pallet was used leaning to the blues amd greens to shoft the finish towards that cerulean blue it is supposed to be. After waiting 30min to an hour I grab a large round paint brush and oderless mineral spirits. I SOAK the brush and begin to stipple or poke all over the surfaces spearing the dots into eachother and the body color. As I'm doing this I wipe the bush on a clean paper towel when to color transfer becomes to great. The name of the game is to keep soaking the brush and create a wet surface on the kit while you work. Oils are very forgiving and take a while to dry. Effectivly you can keep stacking/repeating to process as needed. If the area becomes too messy a quick wipe and clean before repeating the process will tone the effect down. It is very important to do this with time. I often find the effect to strong when the surface is still shiney and wet, but once fully dry the effect differs vastly in appearance. Right now it is a bit wet and the yellows stand out a bit much for me, making it look sandy. Some further blending amd removal may still be needed.
  4. Rock
    Can anyone clarify if the green accents on the shoulders/legs were supposed to match the clear green lens details on the accents to the sides of the cockpit? Hase just includes decals for them which contrast the clear parts. Trying to figure out if it needs to be corrected.
  5. Rock
    Oh crap, thank you for the link. They also have posted a bunch of IMS event liniyed kits such as the Led Mirage Inferno Napalm ver.2023 (clear armor) limited edition for msrp. Sure beat the 500-600 through 2nd hand channels!
  6. Rock
    One last screw you from Hasegawa. The kit isn't even a few years old and the decals are breaking up while soaking in their warm water. Sadly hase still makes the pilot names and 91 markings around the canopy as part of the antiglare black around the canopy. Thus they have to go on and my colors blended onto them. Simce I'm here mightbas well do the larger markings so they can be weathered too.
  7. Rock
    Round 1 of chicken pox!!!
  8. Rock
    Have you considered (Uschi van der Rosten) Trinity's splatter airbrush stencils? I keep meaning to grab them for that very same reason. One of those tasks that is super fun to do for the first 1/2 hour... then your patterns get bigger and bigger until you start almost pre-shading because your arm hurts and you want it to be over. lol
  9. Rock
    Coming up on a tail end of a nasty week long cold (flu,) I'm finally getting my fine motor skills and routines back. On to getting the arms together and the details painted. I don't remember what I used exactly (possibly alcladd duraluminum) but after a black primer coat I was able to directly spray the center to get a nice shaded effect. It was on about by the time I painted the sixth landing bay door, like the wings, I remembered the bottom of this bird is white and not the topside color. Oops Finally getting sub-assemblies together. First time seeing it up on it's own wheels too. I really like the way hase made the landing gears not require cement like most aircraft. Should make for a much more pleasant detailing experience. Got the wash mixed up as we speak so really moving now!
  10. Rock
    Any place with train model stuff or even vigger arts and craft stores such as michaels and hobby lobby. There is green moss stuff used to cover the glue/foam in floral flower arrangements. Finding it hard this week to focus on the project at hand... 😶 -
  11. Rock
    Thanks Thom. The blades are supposed to be (according to the sample image) bent at a straight 90 degree angle. I thought they looked more interesting/visible being bent at something closer to a 45 degree angle. It was easier to to pre-bend them up, glue it to the original plastic part, and then once the CA began to set up, bend them to the desired final angle. Holding them was the challenge. Once the blades were bent up the part lost all strength and if touched would disturb the angles. All kinda moot given how deep they sit inside the plane. Only IPMS flashlight judges would ever find them and that is the least of this valk's worries. Flash on, Flash off! Got the front and backs together. I don't remember what I painted them with, I think Alcladd Flat Aluminum + AK Gunship Gray I had in the gun already. Got them both installed in their home. For the intake I painted them Warm White and then just shot some black primer into the back letting the overspray fog it's way forward. Easy way to add a bit of shading, weathering and make the blades metallic gray stand out. I may go in later with some silver and dry brush the edges when I get to that point. Some more AK Warm White was used over black to finally get the landing gear bays painted. A little bit of shading was all that was needed to get the details to really show. The PE Parts on the forward bay really look at home, I was worried the edges would be too visible (they are overlay's.) From here all I think I'll do is a grime wash and then hand paint just a few accents/details to make them less boring. Touch-up on my forward landing gear were also done (missed some mold marks!) Now that I think of it I thing the rear landing gears still need to be built and painted, whoops! Lastly got, masked some panel lines and got to work! Really makes the color on the body pop! I was pleasantly surprised that I had no paint bleed thru, lifting or peeling given they sat weeks masked up and ready to attack. Dare I say, I think she's about ready for a panel line wash!
  12. Rock
    Tool time!
  13. Rock
    Thanks all, zero project until sometime towards the end of the Month. Managed to kill 3 airbrushes in an evening. Went to clean my Kustom Eclipse CS and the screw on tip was split, tried to swap the tip and fluid cap off my Revolution HP-TR and somehow buggered that up. Grabbed the old handy Iwata Neo (my primer ab) and somehow managed to break the tip off loosening it with pliers. Was not a good night. I'm down to an Old Badger Patriot and an Iwata Takumi Micron that I haven't used in 10+ years. I've already ordered parts to repair the 2 but they are weeks out. Grabbed and H&S Infinity CR+ which should be here next weekend. I'm going to bite the bullet and order some custom Iwata soft-jaw pliers for future maintenance. I also need to grab a handful of their o-rings as they always go MIA. Does anyone have any advice on bending up this? The PE bending pliers are useless, and it is pretty hard getting the blades all bent to the same angle with just the x-acto knife. My first idea was to put it on top of the original plastic part, and press in on the blades. the result was barely any movement due to the shallow details.
  14. Rock
    Is there anything hinting at the cockpit POV for the YF-29?
  15. Rock
    Pace slowed a bit as warm weather peaked out for a few days. It doesn't help that all the smaller bits need extensive seam work (gun barrels were atrocious and ended up more oval than round!) Various bits almost ready for color. Went back and fourth on if I should introduce metallic paint to contrast the flat colored body or stick with anime-ish grays. I choose AK Warm White for the landing gears and various details. I'm also trying to figure out how to bend up the PE part's engine intake blades, been dreading it. Grabbed a few more AK 'weathering pencils' to try out on the underside of the bird. They are an oil pastel-like pigment and respond very well to smudging with a cotton swap damped with a bit of water in controlled spaces.
  16. Rock
    Brera's magenta is definitely is a unique color pallet to work with and you did it justice! I had no idea someone offered the super/fast pack parts for the Lucifer, will have to track this down!
  17. Rock
    Finally seeing them off the computer screen and they look amazing! Will you be offering 1/48 options? I'm curious to see if more of your sculpting details show up in the larger scale.
  18. Rock
  19. Rock
    Clear backed stickers only
  20. Rock
    Things. Many things. Wing underside corrected. More color seperation. And a teaser!
  21. Rock
    It's a bit hard to distinguish but there appears to have been quite a bit of the armor on the gold frame tweaked (at least in comparison to the original MB Red Frame with the flight pack I have.) I'm not sure if this is just bits they've changed as they kept re-releasing the design or if it is new to this release. Knees, shoulder, feet, thighs, front skirts...
  22. Rock
    Ohh, I'll try that going forward. Thanks for your advice. I'm fairly happy with where I'm at but, it is a bit different than what I'm used to, which happens to be why I'm enjoying it! I'm happy I avoided this look [-twitter.com/FUEN_FGO/status/1261594210861346816-] which is the opposite style of what I wanted to take on in this project. Save the colors for gunpla! I'm trying to keep in mind I'll be adding some unique high-contrast striping to break it up. I haven't shared the design here (yet) but, some may have caught a glimps of it elsewhere. I'll need to play with some blacks to figure something out. I'm getting away from pure black as to create shading depth, but I'm finding both the lighter nato and tire black-ish mixes I've tried kind of ruin the crispness of the look. This is very apparent when placing a decal on top of the black. Might give something like midnight blue (5%blue/95% black a try) to keep the color palate happy. Anywho- PROGRESS! Though I admittedly screwed up the wings. I didn't pay attention and mirrored the top pattern onto the bottom which should just be gray... whoops! A few more fins to take care of and I think it will be safe to move onto a panel wash before trying some experiments!
  23. Rock
    Yeah it is on the red side. Used 'ol PS to analyze it a bit more. The 3 dabs Were each pulled form the images shown. Using the color picker I was able to compare the RGB (Red Green Blue) that make up the colors swatches. The blue and green values of all 3 colors were insanely close. The red was a tad higher in my mix. I don't think I'm willing to dial it back by adding a bit more blue and green though at this point. I may use this excuse as a good time to see what a green dot filter can do. Top Right: My mix on the area's with more black showing through. (R:115) Bottom Right: The color pulled off the wing in the screen shot. (R:98) Left: Color pulled off the top of the leg with less black showing though. (R:106) Weird enough the thing just looks grey in some of the pics.
  24. Rock
    Updated version of the SAV Engage SR2. Word is it is a rework of the older MM kit.
  25. Rock
    R, the mix is of Mr. Color (#80,110, and 3.) I'm 100% the mix is right or what Hase wants as I'm mixing by weight. It's just not what I expected from what I've had seen. ----‐- After doing some testing I ended up leaning into the gray tones by adding some more cobalt blue and light gull gray. I guess real world aviation tones are rubbing off on me. I wasn't too sure on its own but next to the light gray... well, I rather like the result!
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